The gaps between clear parts and the cockpit

You could use some styrene strips to build up what’s needed to fill the gaps.

That's a good article. I went and read it again. He's a little short on details with the tip about putty. Which putty, which kind of polish remover? Based on the date of the article, I'd guess he used Squadron Green, and the smelly kind of remover, pure acetone.

A more up-to-date method I like would be Tamiya Gray putty mixed with Tamiya thin cement in the green capped bottle.

But... I also like what he ended up doing. Most of the airliner kits I build have decals for the "glass". That way the parts can be installed and smoothed in nicely. And the frames on clear canopy parts can be overscale and in particular raised way more than real.

Having your question in mind, when I opened the article to read it, I looked at the first image of the nose area and thought "wow, that worked". And then read where he painted it.

My biggest grumble of the kit is the open gear wells. Too much work to fix.

Keep us posted on your build.

This article?

http://mail.hyperscale.com/2008/features/b52d72kl_1.htm

It looks like he wound up painting the windows black, after dust adhered to the insides.  Like you mentioned, GM, it's akin to a standard technique used by those who build civilian jets.

As far as filling gaps around a canopy is concerned, I also use white glue to do it.

When I use putty, I use Squadron white, thinned with acetone.  I have two methods.  One is to apply the putty to the seam and then remove the excess with a cotton swab soaked in the solvent.  The other is to mix a blob of putty and a couple drops of acetone in a glass jar (eg, a Model Master paint jar).  When I get it to a consistent texture, I apply it to the seam with an old paint brush.  I call it my homemade Mr Surfacer.

If there's a larger gap, I'll use bits of stretched sprue to fill it, flow some liquid styrene cement over it, and then putty over that as necessary.

Good tip Brad.

One more, and the OP will need it for this pig. 

Say you have a gap thats 0.02 inches, as an example. 

Often it's hard to put a thin strip in there without it getting pushed through into the model.

I like to take a piece of sheet styrene thats 0.02 inches thick and say 1" square. Force it into the gap edgewise, glue. Then come back and trim it flush with the surface. Repeat along the gap as needed. Then sand it all flush.