Lysander by Eduard ED11138

This is essentially the same kit that I recently completed.  It is a decent kit with a good number of extras included - PE and resin parts.

The post I created on my Lysander build:  http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/185843.aspx

Tks Aggie.  Ever see any by other manufacturers?  Looks good but sounds like it was a little bit of a battle.

There is a 1/32 kit by Matchbox which can be fun.  Any Lysander will be harder than the average model because of all the structure at the top of the canopy, it's just pretty complicated.  Same row to hoe as putting together most P-38 kits, it's hard to engineer it to be foolproof.

Gavia and Eduard are the same kit in 1/48.  Hawk did one in 1/48 way back when and it has been released more recently by Italeri but being a 60's kit it is not as good as the Gavia kit but may be easier to put together just because it has fewer parts, just a guess.  There are several kits in 1/72 as well.

To tag on to what John says, Revell also has a 1/32 edition of the Lysander.  I built it as a kid many years ago, so I'll surmise it wasn't a difficult build.

Undoubtedly the Matchbox kit with a Revell label, Stephen.  I think the kit has real possibilities.

ok, so i picked up the Edouard LE kit, 11138.  And it does have a nice bit of extras.  I wasnt expecting the finished PE instrument panel.  Some resin and additional PE to.  Markings for a number of different versions also.  Some Help please.....  I always, for some unknown reason, struggle with this - to prime before assembly or afterwards?  Tips please and why......  Tks!  for any help

 Something else i was not expecting - i dont kow the proper terminology - there are no guide holes and pegs to help guide the pieces when gluing together.  Is this an Edouard feature??

 Ive been looking at the directions and im already stumped - why the question mark for Step F?

 Also, reads markings for C and E only.  Yet when i go to the C and E versions, I dont even know what the part is and do not see a step to use it??  I added C as a reference.

thanks for any help!!  

On this particular airplane, I'd advise to prime and paint everything prior to assembly.  It will be far easier to mask all that glass without having to deal with the big wings and their support struts.

This is not an Eduard mold by origin; it was originally a Gavia kit.  I don't know anything about that manufacturer, but there are a number of manufacturers that do not include the locator pins in their molds.  The kit can be built easily enough without them, you just have to take your time to ensure alignment is correct prior to allowing glue to set.

The question mark on Step F indicates a builder's choice - if you have selected to build option C or E, then you would build that fuel (?) tank and install it into the space between the pilot and rear gunner station. 

See this instruction manuel for placement of that tank.  https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/1/1/2/115112-99-instructions.pdf

Aggieman

On this particular airplane, I'd advise to prime and paint everything prior to assembly.  It will be far easier to mask all that glass without having to deal with the big wings and their support struts.

This is not an Eduard mold by origin; it was originally a Gavia kit.  I don't know anything about that manufacturer, but there are a number of manufacturers that do not include the locator pins in their molds.  The kit can be built easily enough without them, you just have to take your time to ensure alignment is correct prior to allowing glue to set.

The question mark on Step F indicates a builder's choice - if you have selected to build option C or E, then you would build that fuel (?) tank and install it into the space between the pilot and rear gunner station. 

See this instruction manuel for placement of that tank.  https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/1/1/2/115112-99-instructions.pdf

 

tks for the link ....  I didn't look carefully enough at mine - I found the reference a few pages into them as to where the optional tank goes. Have to say these instructions are a little different format from what I'm use to.  Guessing I'll have to use a slower setting glue too. Appreciate the help.  Wm. 

There was an excellent one-hour program on PBS awhile ago. It is a show that features rebuilds of old vehicles- planes, cars, ships, trains etc.  This episode showedthe rebuild of a Lysander.  A lot of interior footage, engine, wing support, etc.  I don't know whether this series is one they archived or not, for their Passport program or those with accounts through Smart TVs (Roku systems come with such an account).

Don Stauffer

There was an excellent one-hour program on PBS awhile ago. It is a show that features rebuilds of old vehicles- planes, cars, ships, trains etc.  This episode showedthe rebuild of a Lysander.  A lot of interior footage, engine, wing support, etc.  I don't know whether this series is one they archived or not, for their Passport program or those with accounts through Smart TVs (Roku systems come with such an account).

 

 

tks don. found a whole series, including the one you mentioned, under ultimate restorations on amazon prime. Tks for tip!

So, I now have a new found appreciation for those that regularly build aircraft!  My 1st.....  Now getting done on the cockpit and i have to say - an extra pair of hands would have been helpful.  I hope it doesnt spring apart overnight!  Probably have the spare fuel tank in wrong also - not sure which way its suppose to face??  It woldnt fit sideways and the nozzle was in the way when i tried to flip it so i think this is right

so slowly but surely im plugging along.  Looking for a little more thought on those more familiar with aircraft - this being my 1st - and this model.  Below are the directions that show (donr know proper termiinology) parts 44 and 43 that top off the props.  In some of the videos ive seen and the below screen shot from youtube, there are no such parts.  But what ive seen and show circled are mechinaisms that i think rotate the props and the arrow points to no nose piece.  Was thinking about trying to make a fews parts to add those characteristics and leave off part 43 and 44.  yes - no ??  

Yikes - I had a heck of a time getting the seat assembly in and also struggled in getting the 2 body halves to fit.  I also think the wing support might be a little out of kilter.

So i finally fisinished. I ended up using Tamiya acrylic XF-69 Nato Black over grey syrylenz primer.  I did pledge floor care before i appled decals.  Over that for the clear coat i used MM Acryl - air brushed (learned my lesson there) - #4637 semi gloss.  I was hoping for more of a sheen when done but its dried somewhat duller than what i had hoped for.  As said before, the 4 piece forward canopy gave me fits and you can spot the glue bomb on it and my repair attempt.  I had to dry fit about 14 times before assembling so i was afraid to mask and paint 1st for fear of messing it up.  I thought i would be able to do it after.  But then it was alittle delicate and awkard and i chickened out.   I gave up on it and now know better for next time.  I often struggle whether to assemble 1st then paint or vice versa.  I'd read some articles about other who had done this kit and it was suggested to paint 1st due to the goofy wings and how they are attached to the model - so i painted 1st which i think led to a little agnst trying to attach them correctly - hence the tiny gap at the top of the wings on either side on the canopy top.  Also, next came the wing struts and the fit was a little off there bc the wings were a tad off.  Also my interior cockpit cage was sligtly askew throwing the wings a bit off kilter because the wings are attached to the supports coming off either side of the cage.  Had a llittle trouble with the decals as i didnt lay down as much PFC as i should have.  Overall, not bad and the rear canopy looks good!  There also is a small gap where the rear stabalizers meet the fusalage which i tried to address with some elmers but it sank in instead of filling the gap.  I then tried a dab of vallejo plastic putty but it messed with the paint job when i went to wipe it off - so i passed on that too.   Which leads me once again to assembly 1st!

I think i woluld like to attach a communication wire from the antenna to rear wing - material to use?  Fishing line??

Comments and suggestion welcome please.

PS - and the boo boo i made on the vertical stabilzer decal - i put it on the be level while on the ground and not in the air!!

Thanks - Wm

Looks like a fine result, well done.  That wing and canopy is a challenge!

I like the Uschi Rig That Thing elastic thread, I use the fine size.  I also have the super fine but it hardly is visible even in sharp enlarged images.  I put masking tape on the ends of the fine before I cut it, otherwise it disappears on my bench.  EZLine is also good, but it is a lot coarser than the Uschi Fine and develops more tension on fragile antennae before the sag is gone.

May I make a suggestion?

        If you go to Auto Zone or O'reilly's Auto parts you can get really thin striping Tape for cars. As narrow as 3/16 or even 1/8 " wide. Then finish your canopy framing with that!

      What Boo-Boo? All I see is a starred area from a rifle shot just slightly out of range, thankfully! 

Tanker-Builder

      What Boo-Boo? All I see is a starred area from a rifle shot just slightly out of range, thankfully! 

Bingo!  Tks.... 

and thanks for the suggestions on the car tape.  Ill check it out even though iim afraid to try it now.  Its very awkward to reach all around now because of the large wings. 

jeaton01

Looks like a fine result, well done.  That wing and canopy is a challenge!

I like the Uschi Rig That Thing elastic thread, I use the fine size.  I also have the super fine but it hardly is visible even in sharp enlarged images.  I put masking tape on the ends of the fine before I cut it, otherwise it disappears on my bench.  EZLine is also good, but it is a lot coarser than the Uschi Fine and develops more tension on fragile antennae before the sag is gone.

I didn't see your question about the propeller until today.  The photo is of a Hamilton Standard counterweighted propeller built under license by DeHavilland, they predated the Hydromatic type that had no external counterweights.  Oil pressure in the dome moved the blades to fine pitch, and the counterweights moved the blades to coarse pitch.  The spinner could cover the counterweights.  The Lysander III used a scond type of Hamilton Standard/DeHavilland propeller called constant speed but I can't find any referece as to whether it was the hydromatic type or the counterweighted type combined with a constant speed governor.

jeaton01

I didn't see your question about the propeller until today.  The photo is of a Hamilton Standard counterweighted propeller built under license by DeHavilland, they predated the Hydromatic type that had no external counterweights.  Oil pressure in the dome moved the blades to fine pitch, and the counterweights moved the blades to coarse pitch.  The spinner could cover the counterweights.  The Lysander III used a scond type of Hamilton Standard/DeHavilland propeller called constant speed but I can't find any referece as to whether it was the hydromatic type or the counterweighted type combined with a constant speed governor.

 

thanks for the explanation john.  very interesting.  also, i just happend to click on your link in your signature - wow.  will be checking it out more when i can.  question - you have one of your p40's on a stand in the pictures - the prop is spinning - did you actally spin it or a photograpy embelishment?  very cool.

My usual is to use an air nozzle to spin the props when I take that kind of picture.  I've tried a little with a graphics program but it has not resulted in very convincing photos in my opinion. 

I believe you are talking about the Hasegawa 1/72 P-40N with all the nations' insignia that flew P-40's, that is definitely done with the air nozzle.  In some of those photos I did clone out the stand.  Just don't use too much pressure or the airplane goes over the side!  Most often I modify the prop shaft with music wire inside brass tubing to get a friction free prop.

Looks great!

Tanker-Builder

May I make a suggestion?

        If you go to Auto Zone or O'reilly's Auto parts you can get really thin striping Tape for cars. As narrow as 3/16 or even 1/8 " wide. Then finish your canopy framing with that!

ok, trying this....  maybe i should have looked for a dull balack?  Thoughts?  Tks!  On the right track??

Okay! Now you got the idea!

     What you can do though, is overlap the join just a little, then, with a VERY Sharp blade make your cut that way you won't have any gaps. The other part is to buy the thinnest tape you can. The thinner the better.

      I don't remember, But, I think you can buy down to .010 thickness. Also, make sure your canopy is clean. That way when you burnish the tape it will stick everywhere! Then, Here's the kicker, If you over paint with clear gloss,this will lock the tape down and it will never pull up anywhere. The downside to tape is this. Over time, If it gets exposed to sunlight it will shrink. Without the overpaint!

Tanker-Builder

Okay! Now you got the idea!

     What you can do though, is overlap the join just a little, then, with a VERY Sharp blade make your cut that way you won't have any gaps. The other part is to buy the thinnest tape you can. The thinner the better.

      I don't remember, But, I think you can buy down to .010 thickness. Also, make sure your canopy is clean. That way when you burnish the tape it will stick everywhere! Then, Here's the kicker, If you over paint with clear gloss,this will lock the tape down and it will never pull up anywhere. The downside to tape is this. Over time, If it gets exposed to sunlight it will shrink. Without the overpaint!

so the only kind of striping I could find was like vinyl. Plasticy and hard. Being a 4 part canopy and not fit in perfectly, although glued, I was afraid to do too much pushing on it with a blade. Also the striping is a little tough So I e had to measure and cut then apply. The canopy had already been dipped in pledge. Question :  what kind of clear coat do you recommend?  Also,  an I get away with just brushing it over the striping or should I do the whole thing?

jeaton01

hey John - sent you a pm a week or so ago. Did it go through?  Rigging question..

Tks Wm.