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cockpit canopy glue question.....

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  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
cockpit canopy glue question.....
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Monday, November 23, 2020 10:56 AM

so maybe its a right of passage - i was gluing a large 4 piece canopy for my Lysander and of course some of the glue ran on 1 side and i buggered up another spot.  I was using quick set tamiya thin and the canopy had been dipped awhile back in PFC.  Is there anything i can do to try and remove the 2 spots?  I was hoping it would dry clear - haha.  Nope.

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • From: the redlands Fl
Posted by crown r n7 on Monday, November 23, 2020 11:22 AM

can you post a picture of the canopy?

 .Nick

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Monday, November 23, 2020 11:43 AM
Depending if the glue ate through the PFC or not. Windex will remove PFC

 

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Monday, November 23, 2020 11:51 AM

Hi;

 I find that after having been soaked in PFC that you can usually take a spot of fine rubbing compound and clear it up.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Monday, November 23, 2020 12:08 PM

Best glue I've found for cockpit canopies is watch crystal cement.  MicroMark has it.

Also, Testor's clear canopy cement is a white glue, like Elmer's, that dries clear, and it is water soluable so you can wipe off the excess before it dries.

Or you can use Elmer's, or Ailene's Tacky glue, same thing.

Computer, did we bring batteries?.....Computer?

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Monday, November 23, 2020 12:26 PM

I have always used clear epoxy to attach my canopies.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Monday, November 23, 2020 12:46 PM

crown r n7

can you post a picture of the canopy?

 

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Monday, November 23, 2020 12:52 PM

tks all.  I would have to guess that the glue settled on top of the PFC.  These canopy pieces were hard to get in and the plan was to use the glue dropper to drop just a dab to help them set up for more glue later.  Oh well....  Things were already out of square a little so getting tem just right is/was a challenge.  That being said i still have to shave a tad off the tope to get it right and the darn wings i think are going to be a little askew.  Im gonna try a little windex but i dont think that will remove the glue.  Nail polish remover?

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Monday, November 23, 2020 1:19 PM

Mrchntmarine

...Im gonna try a little windex but i dont think that will remove the glue.  Nail polish remover? 

Windex will remove the Future from the piece, back down to the bare styrene.  It won't help with the damaged areas.

And I don't think nail polish remover, whose active ingredient is the solvent acetone, is going to make this better, either.

Tamiya extra thin is a glue designed for gluing styrene pieces together by dissolving them, then the cement cures and the pieces are welded together.  It's not like it's a layer that can be peeled off (which is what white glue does-it surrounds the mating edges and cures to hold them in place, it doesn't react chemically with the material).

I think you're going to need to sand and polish out the clear areas melted by the thin glue.  It's not a disaster-most of us have had to do the same or similar thing at one time or another, to clean a piece of clear styrene.

As far as the glue goes, I also use Tamiya Extra Thin, along with some other brands of liquid styrene cement, for most assemblies on a styrene kit.  I don't often use it for attaching clear parts, though.  I use white glue (Elmer's) as others have mentioned, or MicroScale's Kristal Klear, but I also will use old-fashioned Testor's styrene glue in a tube.  I apply it to the mating surfaces with a toothpick, and its slower curing time gives me time to make adjustments.

Hope that helps!

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • From: the redlands Fl
Posted by crown r n7 on Monday, November 23, 2020 1:25 PM

I've used 000 or 0000 steel wool to remove small glue marks then polish with rubbing compound for plastic but it's a Delicate process 

 .Nick

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Monday, November 23, 2020 2:11 PM

tks.  i was afraid to use even a small amount of white glue or similiar in fitting them as i was afraid of making a big mess.  The way these pieces were fitting, it took me like 12 times of trying to get them right in the dry fitting.....  Aghhh....  ok.  we'll see .  keep ya posted.

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Monday, November 23, 2020 6:36 PM

White glue's pretty forgiving.  As Cadet Chuck mentioned above, you can clean up the excess with a little water.  It also can help fill minor gaps around the clear piece.  For example, I the last time I built Monogram's old 1/48 P-51B kit, I used white glue to attach the side panels, and to fill the gaps there.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Monday, November 23, 2020 9:41 PM

Ok. Lesson learned. White glue I guess. UPDATE:  didnot try the windex, because...  Nail polish remover no good too and then I tried some rubbing compound with no luck. This is where is gets bad - a dremel with cotton wheel. Well, power tools in the hands of the inexperienced leads to warped and scared plastic. Hummm, now debating to go on and just finish it off or make a mule of it!  Shucks. On the bright side - the Tamiya glue has held it all together!!  

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Saturday, November 28, 2020 6:33 PM

Ok, lesson number, well, a lot, learned....  This being my 1st aircraft, maybe I picked a hard one...  I guess I should have masked the forward canopy before assembly?  It's a 4 piece unit and I wasn't sure. Anyhow it was a buger to fit then glue and I messed it up with the glue marks as mentioned. I was too chicken to try and mask it once assembled and installed. It was very awkward and I was too afraid of pushing too much On it. So, at least for now, I just covered it and sprayed. I did mask the rear one. Are you suppose to prime the ribs after masking before you paint?  It had pfc on it....  It got sprayed then after clean up I noticed I forgot to finish it so it then got brushed. 

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Saturday, November 28, 2020 8:31 PM

so this is the rear one.  Whats the best way to finish it off?  Its been clear coated w/ PFC before painting w/ flat tamiya nato black.  I going to try to trim up some of the lines and remove some splatter....  I forgot to block off the underside when spraying.  But not too bad i guess for the 1st time....   Is it okay to dip in PFC to seal?

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Monday, December 7, 2020 5:36 PM

anyone??  tks

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    July 2019
  • From: Vancouver, British Columbia
Posted by Bobstamp on Monday, December 7, 2020 6:26 PM

Nice work, but, OK, I give up. What is PFC? 

I'm pretty much a beginner, having let some 50 years slip by before trying my hand at another plastic scale model.

I've had sleepless nights over canopy painting, but your canopy looks great to me. For minor clean-up of dried paint, I've used orangewood cuticle sticks with good success, using them just as you would use them to push cuticles back. When clean-up is done, brief emersion in Pledge/Future floor wax and drying in a dust-free place should do the trick.

Bob  

 

On the bench: 1/500 Revell S.S. Hope, being built as the hospital ship U.S.S. Repose; Academy 1/72 F-86F Sabre, and a diorama to illustrate the crash of a Beech T-34B Mentor which I survived in 1962 (I'm using Minicraft's 1/48 model of the Mentor). 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Monday, December 7, 2020 6:43 PM

PFC is the current pledge floor care, the old future acrylic floor coating.

Mct...try using a round toothpick to clean up the edges of the frames.  Usually when painting frames, you first paint the interior framing color from the outside, then overcoat with the exterior color.  No primer.  Then your interior color shows on the inside of the framework.

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Monday, December 7, 2020 7:51 PM

You can also make a tiny chisel with a chunk of plexiglass.  You can get a nice, sharp edge on it, and it won't scratch the polycarbonate of the canopy while you scrape the paint away from the edges.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Monday, December 7, 2020 8:56 PM

Bobstamp

Nice work, but, OK, I give up. What is PFC? 

 

Bob 

Tks for the help.  As mentioned, Pledge Floor Care.  Now i know i can safely dip it!

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Monday, December 7, 2020 9:01 PM

goldhammer

Mct...try using a round toothpick to clean up the edges of the frames.  Usually when painting frames, you first paint the interior framing color from the outside, then overcoat with the exterior color.  No primer.  Then your interior color shows on the inside of the framework.

 

Question - whats the point of paing the interior color 1st then covering it up with the exterior color?  To have the interior color showing if looking up ?  If you do the interior 1st on the outside then cover with the exterior color, wont the exterior color drown out the 1st one?  Tks much

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Monday, December 7, 2020 9:06 PM

Eaglecash867

You can also make a tiny chisel with a chunk of plexiglass.  You can get a nice, sharp edge on it, and it won't scratch the polycarbonate of the canopy while you scrape the paint away from the edges.

go it.  Tks.  So im guessing the point is to scrape away any paint thats spilles ove the edges of the canopy framing...  But, by scraping the edges, wont that cause some of the other paint to possibly flake while chiseling?  Guessing take it slow and easy to minimize that??

 

Keep on building!

  • Member since
    July 2019
  • From: Vancouver, British Columbia
Posted by Bobstamp on Monday, December 7, 2020 9:19 PM

Mrchntmarine

Question - whats the point of paing the interior color 1st then covering it up with the exterior color?  To have the interior color showing if looking up ?  If you do the interior 1st on the outside then cover with the exterior color, wont the exterior color drown out the 1st one?  Tks much

 

 
As I understand it, painting the interior colour of the cockpit frame beneath the exterior paint provides a subtle sense realism. Looked at from the side or slightly from below you see the inside of the frame on real and scale-model canopies. Or so I believe. I haven't built a model airplane since learning about this technique, but I plan to use it on models in my stash, including an North American F-86 Sabre and a Grumman TBM. 
 
Bob

On the bench: 1/500 Revell S.S. Hope, being built as the hospital ship U.S.S. Repose; Academy 1/72 F-86F Sabre, and a diorama to illustrate the crash of a Beech T-34B Mentor which I survived in 1962 (I'm using Minicraft's 1/48 model of the Mentor). 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Monday, December 7, 2020 9:31 PM

Bobstamp

 

 
Mrchntmarine

Question - whats the point of paing the interior color 1st then covering it up with the exterior color?  To have the interior color showing if looking up ?  If you do the interior 1st on the outside then cover with the exterior color, wont the exterior color drown out the 1st one?  Tks much

 

 

 
As I understand it, painting the interior colour of the cockpit frame beneath the exterior paint provides a subtle sense realism. Looked at from the side or slightly from below you see the inside of the frame on real and scale-model canopies. Or so I believe. I haven't built a model airplane since learning about this technique, but I plan to use it on models in my stash, including an North American F-86 Sabre and a Grumman TBM. 
 
Bob
 

You got it.

Interior frames on western aircraft are usually black or some shade of green. Generally not an issue of bleeding through or subduing the interior color.

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Tuesday, December 8, 2020 7:59 AM

Mrchntmarine

go it.  Tks.  So im guessing the point is to scrape away any paint thats spilles ove the edges of the canopy framing...  But, by scraping the edges, wont that cause some of the other paint to possibly flake while chiseling?  Guessing take it slow and easy to minimize that??

 

 
Yup.  That's the goal, to run the plexiglass chisel along the egdes of the canopy frame to scrape it off the areas you didn't intend to paint.  To prevent the flaking of the paint, you can lightly score it along the edge of the frame with a knife.  I wouldn't recommend using a pointed #11 blade for that though.  A #12 curved blade gives you the best control so you can avoid slips.  Alternatively, you could use a scalpel with a #15 blade.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Tuesday, December 8, 2020 10:49 AM

got it.  tks much.   ill have to try it early in the day when my hands are shakinig as much!!  Smile

 

Keep on building!

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