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Painting Wheel Well Advice Needed

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  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Ohio
Posted by B-17 Guy on Thursday, July 1, 2021 6:42 PM
It really depends on the aircraft but use a P-51 for example. After the fuselage and wings are joined and ready to paint exterior colors I’ll just use the smallest amount of elmers glue I can and glue the land gear doors on. The already painted wheel wells are protected and the gear doors get the colors they need. When the paint is dry, take the doors off and just clean the dried elmers glue off and touch up paint as needed.
  • Member since
    February 2020
Posted by PhilliePhan79 on Thursday, July 1, 2021 6:27 PM

the Baron

By the way, I'm a Phillies fan, too.  Born in the Year of the Blue Snow, three weeks before Jim Bunning's perfect game, six weeks before Johnny Callison homered in the All-Star Game, and three months before The Collapse.

When Cubs fans used to cry about their team not playing in the World Series, I would reply, "Don't tell me about how bad it is-I'm a Phillies fan."

 

At least you don't remember the collapse Big Smile I myself was born in 79.  I wore a Phillies shirt to the Reading WW2 Weekend airshow this year.  A guy in a Phillies hat on the BAHF C-97 crew called me out.  I told him I always have instant respect for fans who stick with them through thick and thin.  His reply in a grim voice was "1964.....". Indifferent

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Thursday, July 1, 2021 11:58 AM

PhilliePhan79
 
the Baron 
 
PhilliePhan79

...I have tried painting the wells first and stuffing, then painting the fuselage/wings...

 

Thanks!

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

Yes, same technique.  I think my choice of material may have been the issue.  I used paper towel.  Tissue or Toilet Tissue makes sense as the water probably makes it conform to the unique shapes much better than a paper towel.

I will try that! 

Yeah, paper toweling is a little too thick to use.  I think you'll get better results with the tissue paper.

By the way, I'm a Phillies fan, too.  Born in the Year of the Blue Snow, three weeks before Jim Bunning's perfect game, six weeks before Johnny Callison homered in the All-Star Game, and three months before The Collapse.

When Cubs fans used to cry about their team not playing in the World Series, I would reply, "Don't tell me about how bad it is-I'm a Phillies fan."

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2021
Posted by rocketman2000 on Thursday, July 1, 2021 9:06 AM

stikpusher

In most cases, I get best results using toilet tissue and water. I fill the wheel well with toilet tissue, then add a few drops of water, and gently compact the wet tissue into the well. I add more tissue and water as needed until I have the well full up to the surrounding areas, and let the stuff dry. Once it's dry, I'll commence to painting. I don't recall ever having any problems as long as I make sure that there is a sufficient amount of tissue in the wells. After painting, the stuff usually comes out pretty easily with tweezers.

 

Ditto

If the opening is simple enough I may cut a piece of thin cardboard just slightly larger than the opening, and slit it a bit to get it into the opening- makes sure the tissue does not hang out- quicker than letting water dry, but only for limited opening shapes.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Thursday, July 1, 2021 7:34 AM

I paint them first,and then stuff them to mask them, I use facial tissue which I wet while applying, gets it adhere more closely and conform. Same goes for open air brakes, once in awhile if they are shallow, then I will tape and spray them later. Lower PSI helps placing the paint where needed with less overspray.

depending on the shape of any opening on any kind of model, I have also used cut up make up sponges

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, July 1, 2021 6:52 AM

I have used all the mentioned methods that work very well and seldom requires any touch ups.  One new method I used on the Iranian F14 I just completed I sprayed the bays with Tamiya gloss white then masked with silly putty and wet tissue depending on the corners and some angles. I then sprayed the Model Master enamel color. Once dry the masking was removed then used a small brush dampened with paint thinner to clean up the edges. This works great when using enamel over acrylic lacquer like Tamiya paint.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 3:46 PM

I use Silly Putty as well.  No residue left on the paint after its removed.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 3:46 PM

I like using foam cut a bit oversized, and fitted in under the lips of the opening.  Bought a chair pad blank of foam at Walmart in the fabric section.  Tight cells, firm yet soft.  One pad will give you several years worth.  Can also be used in intakes, exhausts and cockpits

  • Member since
    May 2020
  • From: North East of England
Posted by Hutch6390 on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 3:33 PM

PhilliePhan79
what technique works best for you? 

When possible, I try to use the kit's wheel well doors, held in place with blu-tack (poster putty) as masks, also gets them painted at the same timeSmile.  Sometimes the kit gives especially-moulded parts for a "wheels up" version, which are often a better fit  - I'm currently working on the Airfix Beaufighter TF X, which provides these.  With gloss paint, I'd recommend raising the doors up a little to avoid them being sealed shut - a gasket of blu-tack would keep paint from getting into the wells.

Otherwise, it's tissue paper or small bits of packing sponge.

Vell, Zaphod's just zis guy, you know?

   

TakkaTakkaTakkaTakkaTakkaTakka

 

  • Member since
    February 2021
Posted by MJY65 on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 1:54 PM

I haven't had a problem with the Mig putty, but have noticed residue from BlueTack.  I think you'll be fine with the gloss white wheel well.

  • Member since
    February 2020
Posted by PhilliePhan79 on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 1:50 PM

MJY65

I've had pretty good luck with Mig masking putty.  It "flows" a bit and makes a darn tight seal at the edges.  You can add tiny increments until you are perfectly flush to the surface.

 

 

I do have some masking putty on hand.  Side question, do you ever find that it leaves a residue on your paint job?  I only used it once and noticed a residue that I couldn't get off.  It was a matte finish BTW.

 

  • Member since
    February 2020
Posted by PhilliePhan79 on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 1:48 PM

the Baron

 

 
PhilliePhan79

...I have tried painting the wells first and stuffing, then painting the fuselage/wings...

 

 

When you say "stuffing", that suggests to me that you might be using paper yourself.  Can you explain what you mean? Are you using tissue paper?  Do you wet the paper first?  When the paper is wet, it is easier to work it into all the spaces and seal off the well as much as possible.  Or do you mean something else altogether?

Thanks!

 

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

Yes, same technique.  I think my choice of material may have been the issue.  I used paper towel.  Tissue or Toilet Tissue makes sense as the water probably makes it conform to the unique shapes much better than a paper towel.

I will try that!

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 12:57 PM

PhilliePhan79

...I have tried painting the wells first and stuffing, then painting the fuselage/wings...

When you say "stuffing", that suggests to me that you might be using paper yourself.  Can you explain what you mean? Are you using tissue paper?  Do you wet the paper first?  When the paper is wet, it is easier to work it into all the spaces and seal off the well as much as possible.  Or do you mean something else altogether?

Thanks!

 

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 12:54 PM

I use paper, too, though I use facial tissue instead of toilet paper. Wet it to place it in the wheel well, paint, wet it again when it is time to remove it.  I use this for cockpits, too.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2021
Posted by MJY65 on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 12:10 PM

I've had pretty good luck with Mig masking putty.  It "flows" a bit and makes a darn tight seal at the edges.  You can add tiny increments until you are perfectly flush to the surface.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 12:08 PM

My approach is similar to Stik's, but I use Silly Putty instead of tissue. It easily fills right to the edge, sticks firmly but is dead-easy to remove, and a toothpick can be used (if required) to coax it into odd corners or weirdly-shaped cutouts.

Once removed, just knead it well and pop it back into the plastic egg, and it's ready to use for next time.

Greg

George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."
 
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 11:49 AM

In most cases, I get best results using toilet tissue and water. I fill the wheel well with toilet tissue, then add a few drops of water, and gently compact the wet tissue into the well. I add more tissue and water as needed until I have the well full up to the surrounding areas, and let the stuff dry. Once it's dry, I'll commence to painting. I don't recall ever having any problems as long as I make sure that there is a sufficient amount of tissue in the wells. After painting, the stuff usually comes out pretty easily with tweezers.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2020
Painting Wheel Well Advice Needed
Posted by PhilliePhan79 on Wednesday, June 30, 2021 11:03 AM

Something that I seem to struggle with on every model is getting a clean paint job in the wheel wells.  I have tried painting the wells first and stuffing, then painting the fuselage/wings.  I have tried painting the body first then masking around the wells.  I have tried tape, liquid mask etc.  I always end up with overspray/underspray or a sloppy transition in colors.  

I'm working on a 1/72 Red Arrows Hawk.  A little guy that'll fit in the palm of your hand.  With the red body and white wells it really needs to be clean.

So what technique works best for you?  I would love some suggestions

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