Transition from cars to aircraft

As a kid, I loved the old Revell 1/32 scale WWII fighters.  I still do, actually.  As my modelling skills progressed (to the point of being mediocre, where I am now!) I tried my hand at weathering a bit, and did, what I thought, was a fair job at the time.  Then I read somewhere that many WWII era airplanes were so short lived that they often never had time to get weathered or show battle scars, or signs of lots of use.  Of course there were lots that did too, so again, it's a matter of how you want your model to look..... like a battle-tested, dozens of sorties warrior, or a freshly-shipped-to-the theater-of-operations newcomer.

When it comes to airliners, especially passenger ones, they are usually kept quite clean.  But a small hydraulic leak, or grease streak will add a touch of realism.

Yeah, the biggest difference is in the finish, as some others have noted.

Car or airplane, you want to have a clean build, so all of things you do to get a clean build-dry-fitting, cleaning up seams, preparing surfaces, etc-are pretty much the same.

But since it's most common to show an airplane-a military airplane, at least-with all of the wear and tear that service causes, it's a complete 180 from the traditional or most common way to finish a car, with a pristine showroom finish.

I had trouble going in the other direction, the first time I built a car model.  I wanted to weather the heck out of it.

And before anyone says it, yes, junkyard finishes and dioramas are a style for cars, but not the most popular/most common.

Weathering with military aircraft depends on a lot of factors.  Combat versus peace-time is a big factor, along with environmental conditions that the aircraft operates in.  Things like sun, rain, and the flow of air over the airframe all affect the paint and outward appearance of any military aircraft that isn't just making the rounds on the airshow circuit.  Carrier-borne aircraft tend to have a much rougher, splotchier appearance than land-based due to salt and other factors at sea.  Even airliners tend to look pretty beat-up at times due to their flight schedules.  In my 28 years of working on military and civilian aircraft, I have seen the extremes at both ends of the spectrum, and everything in between.  Its all about modeling the subject you want to model, at the time, place, and environment it may have been in when you chose to model it.  It doesn't have to be spotless and pretty to be safe to fly.

As far as weathering cars goes.  Count me in with the group that doesn't do any weathering.  On the occasions I build cars, they tend to be something I could never afford in real life, and I want the model to look like it just rolled off the assembly line.

   Most real, military or civilian are rarely dirty, the military and airlines have rigid corrosion inspection protocals. Most of the " weathering" will be stains where maintenence occurs, or panels and sections have been re painted.

   That doesn't mean that you couldn't have a hanger queen or a relic in a farmers barn covered in dust or grime but as a rule working aircraft are generally" clean".

   Be aware that flaps/ slats, and landing lear down can also be refered to as " dirty". Just a fun fact.

rocketman2000

 

 

wpwar11

I like building both cars and airplanes.  I enjoy planes a bit more because of the weathering possibilities.  I don't know your skill set but maybe start with something with fewer parts and not a complicated camouflage.  Tamiya's F4F-4 Wildcat and A6M2 Zero might be good choices.  You can purchase pre-cut canopy mask for easier painting.

 

 

 

 

Lots of us are multi-genre builders.  Do not believe you cannot weather cars!  Rally cars are filthy at the finish.  Lots of people model abandoned, grungy cars.  Dirt track race cars are as dirty as rally cars.  And there is the hotrod meme of ratrod (google it).

 

 

GMorrison

 

 

mightypudge

That said, I'm getting the itch to spread my wings (sorry!) and try something new, and I'm curious what tips you all might have for someone who's never tried their hand at model aircraft. thanks 

 

 

Buy Tamiya kits to start with. They are generally very forgiving.

 

 

Bill

 

BK

mightypudge

That said, I'm getting the itch to spread my wings (sorry!) and try something new, and I'm curious what tips you all might have for someone who's never tried their hand at model aircraft. thanks 

Bill

wpwar11

I like building both cars and airplanes.  I enjoy planes a bit more because of the weathering possibilities.  I don't know your skill set but maybe start with something with fewer parts and not a complicated camouflage.  Tamiya's F4F-4 Wildcat and A6M2 Zero might be good choices.  You can purchase pre-cut canopy mask for easier painting.

 

Lots of us are multi-genre builders.  Do not believe you cannot weather cars!  Rally cars are filthy at the finish.  Lots of people model abandoned, grungy cars.  Dirt track race cars are as dirty as rally cars.  And there is the hotrod meme of ratrod (google it).

For attaching canopies, I have been using clear epoxy.

When you get to seam filling.  The first thing to do is to try your best to eliminate having seams in the first place.  That eluded me for years until I stumbled across this YouTube video that showed me the proper way to use liquid cement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXTK9KdRQN4&ab_channel=spruecutters

You're almost always going to still end up with little gaps here and there, even using that method.  What I eventually found that works best for me is plain old Gorilla Super Glue with the light blue cap from Walmart.  If you work with a bright light pointed at the seam, you can see the tiny gaps, and you just use a toothpick to work a tiny bit of superglue into that gap.  After that, let that glue cure overnight.  Then, I use a black Sharpie to scribble on and around the little glue spots.  The black Sharpie acts as a leveling indicator when you sand.  After that, I use Micromesh sanding sticks from 1500 to 12000 grit to wet sand and polish the glue spots until all of the black Sharpie is gone.  Then you can put that same part under your bright light to make sure you don't see any more gaps.  Primer, paint, and Bob's your uncle.  Works the first time, nearly every time (except when you have a tiny gap you didn't see to begin with).  No frustrating fill, sand, repeat process to deal with, and the Micromesh sticks do minimal damage to surrounding detail...leaving enough of it still visible that you can easily rescribe.  For me, the whole process of eliminating gaps was the frustrating bain of my existence for a while.  I don't have that problem anymore.  For larger gaps, I'm using Apoxie Clay now.  Its hard as a rock when cured, but can be easily shaped and smoothed with tools dampened with water before it cures.  You don't even have to sand the stuff.  The best part about the Apoxie Clay is that its an epoxy, so it isn't prone to cracking like other water-workable putties are.

I like building both cars and airplanes.  I enjoy planes a bit more because of the weathering possibilities.  I don't know your skill set but maybe start with something with fewer parts and not a complicated camouflage.  Tamiya's F4F-4 Wildcat and A6M2 Zero might be good choices.  You can purchase pre-cut canopy mask for easier painting.

Working and filling seams is one of the biggest differences.  

Generally, you'll paint all the interior colors, assemble the cockpit, and install in the fuselage as you glue that together.  Engines will be pretty much like a car assembly.  Assemble and paint off the plane.  Most times you want to leave fragile bits like antennas, pitoe tubes, etc. off until you are done handling and painting.  Sometimes easier to attach fragile landing gear after done.

Canopies can be done on or off, depending on how you're building.  Mask inside and out except for the framework on the outside.  Paint the interior color first, then the exterior color.  Use a white glue ( I use pacer 560) to attach.  Styrene glue and CA can fog clear parts.  Nav lights, paint the recess silver, and the backside of the lens with the appropriate clear color, red, green or whatever it calls for.  

Use a gloss clear after painting and before decals.  Use a dullcoat after decals unless it calls for a gloss finish.

Others may chime in with additional thoughts or corrections.  This just works for me.