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Tamiya f14 canopy

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  • Member since
    March 2017
Tamiya f14 canopy
Posted by STUBURT on Thursday, March 24, 2022 7:47 PM

Hello all,

Looking for some advice.

I'll start off with this kit is incredible in every way, but I spend that kind of money and the canopy has that mold line I'm not happy. 

I've dealt with these lines a million times but I can't get rid of this one! Any suggestions?

I'm wondering do I just have a bad one? I can't sand this thing anymore and out of my own stupidity I already had to reorder replacement in other parts of the build which took 7 months to get, so I'm looking for at home fix. 

Anyhow thanks for listening to my rant/question.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Thursday, March 24, 2022 7:48 PM

Which kit/scale?  Can you post a pic?

From: https://modelingmadness.com/review/mod/us/usn/fighter/gar14a.htm

Wouldn't be this would it?

The canopy has two thin opaque lines, one above the pilot and one over the RIO’s heads. They represent the canopy lightning strike conduction strips. They are clearly moulded on the Tamiya 1/48th kit but often sanded away or not painted by modelers who think this is just a mould parting line requiring removal.

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    March 2017
Posted by STUBURT on Thursday, March 24, 2022 8:25 PM

its the 1 48 tamiya 61114. It's definitely not two lines and I've looked at many other builds and they all got crystal clear canopies

 

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Friday, March 25, 2022 6:26 AM

I don't remember if my Tamiya 61114 kit had the lightning strips molded into the canopy or not, but I do remember there being a single line, right down the middle, on the outside of the canopy.  That single line is a mold separation line, and pretty much every Tamiya kit has those.  Its a little annoying, but not horribly difficult to deal with.  If you want a good reference photo for where the lightning strips begin and end, here's a good one...if you decide to want to simulate them with maybe a partial removal of the parting line.

https://cdn10.picryl.com/photo/1990/12/01/a-plane-captain-polishes-the-canopy-of-an-f-14a-tomcat-aircraft-on-the-flight-1819e1-1024.jpg

To remove the line, start off with a brand new #11 xacto blade and carefully/gently scrape away the parts of the line you want to remove.  Stop scraping right when you get it just flush with the rest of the canopy surface.  The next thing you'll need, if you don't already have one, is a micromesh kit of some type.  For canopies, I prefer their sanding stick kit, because it gives you more control over exactly what gets sanded.  That way you don't end up sanding into the canopy frame.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ELIO0A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With that, you just start with 1500 and work your way up to 12000.  I usually do this with running water over my kitchen sink to gently, progressively sand and polish the scraped line so that it becomes just like the rest of the canopy.  Switch the direction of your sanding each time you change grits to minimize the fine scratches that will be dealt with at the end.  Do this gently and try to follow the contours of the canopy so you don't end up with little flat spots and distortions.  When you're done, you should no longer be able to see any hint of the parting line, but under the right light you'll notice extremely fine scratches and swirl marks.  That's where the Novus polishing kit comes in.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UCYRZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With that, you start with the #3 bottle and work your way to the #1.  Do this on the inside and outside of the canopy, so you won't have to coat the canopy with that awful "Future" stuff.  The best method for applying and polishing Novus that I have found is to use cotton gloves.  I get out 3 gloves, 1 for each of the 3 grits, and use one finger to apply, one to polish/remove the Novus, and another to do the final polish.  Repeat that process for each bottle, and in the end, you'll have a beautiful canopy that looks like it never had a parting line.  You can wash the gloves with your other laundry and reuse them.  Just air dry the gloves after washing, because you don't want residue from a dryer sheet or fabric softener in them.

Here are the gloves I have been using.  It also helps to wear a clean pair of them when handling canopies and painted parts to keep fingerprints away.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M3P4X6C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And here's what my Tamiya F-14A canopy looked like at the end.  Heh...didn't know about the lightning strips at the time I built it, so I removed the entire line instead of leaving portions of it to simulate the strips...but, you get the idea.  

 

 

 

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Friday, March 25, 2022 7:03 AM

It wasn't worth the bother,I left mine alone,anybody who looks at mine ain't gonna know whether it belongs or not,and I'm not fretting  over it.

  • Member since
    August 2021
Posted by lurch on Friday, March 25, 2022 9:53 PM

Hey Eaglecash, I worked on the F-14A's and you have your canopy just perfect.What squadron did you decal it as?

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Saturday, March 26, 2022 6:49 AM

Thanks Lurch!  I used the 1979 VF-84 markings that came with the kit.  They were actually pretty nicely done decals, which Tamiya usually comes up a little short on.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

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