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Replicate bullet & cannon fire damage-How 2

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  • Member since
    December 2022
  • From: Canada
Posted by Tcoat on Tuesday, February 21, 2023 10:17 AM

stikpusher

These two old Sheperd Paine pamphlets that came in old Monogram kits are a fine starting point.

http://sheperdpaine.atspace.com/b17g.htm

 

http://sheperdpaine.atspace.com/devastator.htm

 

 

 

These were my bible back in the early 70s! 

I know that Finescale (Kalmbach Publishing) reissued the books a few times over the recent past. Well "recent" in the big scheme of things. Not sure if they are still avaiable. 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, February 17, 2023 12:26 PM

These two old Sheperd Paine pamphlets that came in old Monogram kits are a fine starting point.

http://sheperdpaine.atspace.com/b17g.htm

 

http://sheperdpaine.atspace.com/devastator.htm

 

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Friday, February 17, 2023 12:24 PM

These are tutorials as we knew them before the Internet-Shep Paine's "Tips on Building Dioramas", from the Monogram B-17G and TBD kits.  In both articles, he described his method for reproducing bullet and cannon damage on aircraft:

http://sheperdpaine.atspace.com/b17g.htm

http://sheperdpaine.atspace.com/devastator.htm

I like his method and use it myself.

A PS-if you get an error connecting to either link, keep trying.  The TBD link failed to connect just now, but on a second pass, it connected successfully.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2022
  • From: Canada
Posted by Tcoat on Friday, February 17, 2023 7:59 AM

keavdog

I was thinking of your work tcoat as I read the OPs question.  Awesome work and sounds simple enough.  

 

It really isn't hard at all especialy if you are trying to match actual photos.

Just take note of at least the main features and build to that.

The beauty is that as long as you are even close it looks right and nobody can say you are wrong.

 

 I should point out that the B-17 was the first time I ever did damage. I did make an error but nobody has ever called me out on it. The rudder is actually fabric so should just have holes straight through it or tears at worst so I should not have used aluminum there. 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Friday, February 17, 2023 7:22 AM

I was thinking of your work tcoat as I read the OPs question.  Awesome work and sounds simple enough.  

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    December 2022
  • From: Canada
Posted by Tcoat on Friday, February 17, 2023 6:28 AM

It is much easier than you would think actually.

Get some aluminum tape.

Cut out the area where you want damage. If underlying structure will be visible build it with styrene strip, wires, etc.

Cover with the tape and paint with rest of area.

 

Tear, bend, and generally mangle tape to match what you want.

 

 

 

https://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/191573.aspx

 

https://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/191552.aspx

 

Not sure why links to this site never work. 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2008
Replicate bullet & cannon fire damage-How 2
Posted by RedBird on Friday, February 17, 2023 1:01 AM

Over the years I`ve seen an number of well executed aircraft and airplane dioramas. If they are not pristine of the assembly line builds then they weathered with oil stains, chipped paint, fuel stains etc.

I would like to know how to replicate bullet & cannon fire damage. After all even the top US, British, German, Japanese fighter aces took hits in aerial combat and returned home. In the real world often the sheet metal repair crew would just sheet metal "path" the damage holes. Flack damage is a bite more challenging cause frequently a hit would require building the underlying structural frame of the aircraft due the outer sheet metal skin being torn away. I have reference photos but not sure how to execute this realistically on my 1/48 scale Thunderbolt. Are there any tutorials on how to do this?

 
 
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