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Tamiya F-14 61114 Wheels Up?

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  • Member since
    June 2020
Tamiya F-14 61114 Wheels Up?
Posted by Panzernoob on Saturday, September 23, 2023 12:44 PM

I am normally an armor modeller who is just starting to get into the air side. I have a Tamiya F-14A, kit 61114. I've heard it fits together like a dream as designed, but I was wondering if anyone has built it in a wheels up configuration? If so, did the doors fit well in a closed position or was it not worth the effort?

If you did build it in a wheels up configuration, but it required a bit of work to get it right, is there anything you recommend doing, etc. to make it look as good as possible?

The reason being, is I am looking to put together a flight vinette/stand. Since the kits wings do not have flaps/slats flight with wheels down isn't really appropriate...

Happy to hear additional thoughts/sugggestions. 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Saturday, September 23, 2023 1:10 PM

Here's a beauty and the guy makes a couple comments about the gear doors

https://imodeler.com/2021/07/tamiya-f-14b-1-48-the-jolly-rogers/

 

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    June 2020
Posted by Panzernoob on Saturday, September 30, 2023 11:32 PM

That really is an impressive build. I guess that answers whether or not it can be done... hopefully  it is within my skill ability to do it without eradicating all of the detail modeled on in the area.

Thanks for the post.

  • Member since
    June 2023
Posted by burrito king on Tuesday, October 3, 2023 12:08 AM

I am part of the tiny minority of gear up model makers and I struggle mightily with the gear doors. I have been searching the forums for advice but have not found much. Some say to build styrene support ledges inside the gear bays, but for me the problem seems to be the doors are molded too large for the opening and overlap at the center, the edges, or both. They require a lot of filing and sanding to even fit. Then it's a struggle to glue them in the correct alignment. Because I suck at filing and sanding, they tend to require a good amount of filler to hide the gaps and minimize the uneven transitions to the surrounding fuselage or wing. Finally a good amount of rescribing to restore the details that have been lost with all the surgery required to get a decent fit. This is the part of model making I enjoy least. I wish I had some useful hints to pass along.

My current build is a Hasegawa 1/48 P-38J. I'm currently in the final putty filling and sanding stage, hopefully will be ready for krylon primer in a couple weeks, then alclad regular aluminum.

On deck I have the Monogram 1/48 F4J Mig Ace. It's an older kit, probably with raised panel lines. I built one back in the 90's, and if I remember correctly the gear doors were designed to be up or down. So hopefully that's one less thing I'll have to worry about.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Tuesday, October 3, 2023 6:12 AM

Sounds like something that the 3-D parts printers could tackle,correctly sized closed gear doors.

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Atlanta, GA
Posted by Mustang8376 on Tuesday, October 3, 2023 10:30 AM

I build my models gear up also and I have noticed the majority have gear doors molded too large if you wish to build them closed.  I am learning that it is best to build the bays clsed before the fuselages are closed if you need access to the back of the doors and you will be in for some sanding to make things flush.

Current build: 1/32 Hasegawa F6F-5

 


Completed:  1/48 Hasegawa F-16C, 1/48 Revell Mig-21PFM, 1/48 Revell/Monogram AH-64A, Revell/Monogram 1/48 F-14D, AMT 1/420 USS Defiant, AMT 1/650(?) USS Enterprise, 1/72 Bandai VF-1J, AMT 1/537 USS Reliant, Academy 1/35 M1-A1 Abrams, Academy 1/48 F-86F30, Linbergh's USS Gato 

  • Member since
    June 2023
Posted by burrito king on Friday, October 13, 2023 12:12 AM

Hi Tojo and Mustang, thanks for the tips.  Too late for my P-38 but I will keep those in mind for future builds.  I finally got my P-38 doors somewhat level, puttied, and sanded.  I used wet sanding with 7000 grit for the final finish.  I have some panel line resribing to do.  I don't think I will attempt that on the really big puttied areas, I'm afraid the scribe will dig out some chunks.  After the Alclad is dry I will try to draw any missing panel lines with a very sharp pencil.

Next I will apply gray primer and see how it looks.  I am expecting a lot of waves and scratches.  Just have to keep practicing.

 Screenshot_20231011_214319_Gallery by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/199143046@N08/]

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