paint job and weathering questions

I have a pretty aggressive technique i use for chipping paint (particularly on WWII Japanese aircraft). I use a #11 blade! Yeah yeah, that sounds harsh but it is easier to control (control of the chipping shape, that is!). Of course, this should be done gently and subtly and, provided that you got layers of future under the paint and a gentle touch, you won't hurt the model.

HEY thank you very very much man!, thats a pretty good idea, i will give it a try and let you know how it went, thanks a lot man, i really appreciate it!

Mandrake

All of the suggestions here are great for doing worn paint, but if you were looking to get the effect that the black P-61's had, you have to go about it a little different way. The gloss paint they used did not stick too well, kind of like Chrysler vehicles a few years back, and it came off in CHUNKS !! There are some effective ways off doing this, just start chipping away with something like sharpened wood dowel then go back and touch up the metalizer afterward. Normally when I do something like this, or even the paint "fading" also described here I will paint the metalizer, put some coats of future over it, then the top color. What the future does is act as a barrier between the paint and the metalizer so you don't have to be as careful when you're sanding or chipping the paint off. Chances are you'll stop before sanding through the future.

Hope this helps

to remove part of the topcoat, go into the bathroom and steal the toothpaste! Try rubbing it on with a soft cloth, it will probably polish up the 'metalcoat' underneath as it appears too, carefull, it is an abrasive, too much & you'll hit plastic! And it just washes off! Another use is for polishing canopies, gets rid of fingerprints, glue etc, then coat the canopy with Johnsons Future floor polish for a brilliant shine.

Berny:

I had forgotten about Rub-n-Buff ! Didn't even think it existed anymore ! Besides what you describe, I used to do something similar to dry-brushing with it. I would a put a little dab on the corner of a rag or even a finger tip. I would remove most of it so that the rag or finger was virtually dry, then lightly rub across the features that I wanted to highlight.

Jim

There is a product called "Rub-n-Buff". It comes in several colors including silver. Just rub some on the leading edges of wings, tail surfaces and buff it in. After you paint the aircraft take some tape, stick it to your forehead to take some of the sticyness out of it and apply to the area you want to simulate worn paint. The top color will come off and underneath will be that shinny metal look. Carefull as it will lift all of the paint where you have applied the Rub-n-Buff. Do it in small sections using very small sections of the tape.

Hey ya,
To simulate "flake"damage use a dremel tool w/ a fine sanding wheel.
First get the dremel and start sanding/thinning the plastic from the inside of the kit(where ever you want the damage to be).Just make sure you dont go all the way through.
When this process is done, go to the other side where the actual damage will be. By using a brand new "#11" blade, start lightly pushing the plastic inward w/ a kinda of a circular motion(easier done than said). The knife will help simulate the damage(giving the plastic a rough look and also chip it).
After you get the look that you want, go back and start doing the necessary painting that needs to be done to the "flake" damage.
This is one of many was of reproducing "Flake" damage.
As to fading paint or weathering the a/c, there are a few threads that describe different ways to produce a "well" worn ship.
Flaps up,Mike

I seem to remember seeing a dremel tool with a small grinding wheel used to "rough" up the surface like it had been hit with flak. I can't find it for the life of me. It's in one of the the current model magazines though.

Not sure about the flak damage, I haven't ever tried that one before. It would probably involve removing some plastic or drilling a hole or two, and then chipping the paint around the "Wound" to show the bare metal through it. The prospect of doing this, however, scares me!
I believe that FSM had a recent issue that covered doing flak damage on A/C. Does anyone out there remember which issue that might have been, or was I having a weird dream?
Jamie, a little confused

I promise that i´ll send you the pics of the model, it will take me about a week to finish, you will see it soon, hey one more question how can i make a realistic flak damage? take care man!

I would LOVE to see the finished product, Mandrake, when you are done. I find this has worked quite well for me. Glad to have been of some help to you.
All the best,
Jamie

Thank you very very very much!!

is a really good idea, i have the micromesh here, i never thought of using it, i also have a p-40 that i dont like, im gonna do some test on it and see what happen, man you really saved my p-61! thank you very much, as soon as i finish i´m gonna send you a pic of the model
my very best regards
happy modeling to you too

Mandrake.

Try using a really, really fine grit sanding/polishing paper like micromesh. It comes in packages that start at about 3600 grit and goes to about 12000 grit. If you CAREFULLY sand and work your way through the grits along the area you want to appear to have the faded off paint, this should work. Don't mask the areas to be sanded off, just let it naturally fade along the fuselage, wings, etc.
This should give you the effect you want.
Before doing this on the model you are working on, I would suggest that you do a few tests on some scrap model to see what combination of grits best achieves the look you want.
You can find Micromesh at most hobby stores. Good luck!