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Polishing metallic paint

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Brazil
Posted by Fabio Moretti on Monday, April 14, 2003 1:51 PM
Try metallic tape, use to isolate air-conditioned ducts....is very bright and thin..

Next on the workbench 

  • Member since
    December 2014
Posted by Ffowcs on Monday, April 14, 2003 1:29 PM
Thank you CM Taylor and Holdfast for your quick reply to my enquiry. I take note of what you say and will try it out. I'm going back to my model right now actually. I look forward to announcing how I got on. Bye, Haydn.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, April 13, 2003 4:14 PM
Haydn.
It sounds like you are either using some sort of thinner on the polishing cloth, or you didn't clean the model before applying the Metalcote. Before applying any paint the model surface must be free from mold release agent, finger oils and any other gunge. You can wash it with normal dishwashing detergent and warm water, using a cloth on large areas and an old toothbrush on hard to get at areas. I use Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol) you can buy it at the chemist. It dries far quicker then water and there is never any left hiding in crevices. Use it the same as I described for water.
When spraying metalics first of all make sure they are well mixed and add a couple of BBs to the jar. Metalics consist of metal flakes and they will sink rapidly, so with every pass with your airbrush, give the jar a shake. The BBs will keep the paint mixed. In my humble oppinion, I believe that you are right to thin Metalcote but use Humbrols own thinner. For any other paint I don't believe this to be of great importance, but for Metalcote I think it is.
There are far better paints on the market for achieving a NMF Alclad II being one and SNJ being another. Both are good, both have their good and bad points. I have used both. I am now experimenting with kitchen foil, since a great artical in Fine Scale Modeler
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: United Kingdom
Posted by cmtaylor on Sunday, April 13, 2003 2:03 PM
In my experience, Metalcote requires NO thinning.
Another option is to use Bare Metal Foil BUT, the surface will show every blemish and you can't apply masking tape over the top - it'll lift the foil.
If you apply any kind of varnish, you'll dull the shine.
Gentlemen! You can't fight in here; this is the WAR ROOM!
  • Member since
    December 2014
Polishing metallic paint
Posted by Ffowcs on Sunday, April 13, 2003 1:06 PM
Dear members,

I am a new member from Great Britain. Plastic modelling was one of my favourite hobbies when I was a youngster. Now after a hiatus of about 12 years I have returned to the hobby, and, like before, my favourite category are WW2 era airplanes. I am currently building Monogram's 1/48 scale Douglas Invader A26B. The kit offers a choice of two decal sets, both during the Second World War. I want to model the one that was called "Stinky", with the attractive smiling shark's (?) teeth painted on the nose. The overall color is natural metal. I find that this project is challenging enough even if I just build it straight from the box, and am experimenting seriously for the first time with techniques such as wash and drybrushing as well as using tools and equipment I han't used before. Moreover, this is the first model that I've used an airbrush on. Now I come to the point of my message.

I have airbrushed my model with two coats of Humbrol's metalcote polished aluminium no. 27002 - a paint which once dry can be polished to achieve a metal like finish. However, when I tried to gently polish the paint with a soft cloth I found the paint was coming off and that I was soon rubbing down to the plastic. The paintwork is sensitive enough to be tainted by fingermarks even though I handle the model with care wearing latex gloves. I wonder what causes this problem.

As a relative newcomer to plastic modelling and using an airbrush for the first time I experimented with a paint/thinner ratio of 2/1. Could it be that I have applied too much thinner to my paint?

I have also wondered whether I should have applied a primer first to help the gloss paint to adhere better. If so, then what type of undercoat would do? And as for how to strip off the gloss then obviously in this case I could do it by rubbing a soft cloth, but surely there must be a better and quicker way than that.

When I finally get the paintwork right, should I apply a coat of varnish to it? I have heard someone say that metallic paint and varnish react adversely.

I am prepared to experiment, yet of course I would dearly love to see myself turning out a good model of the Invader.

I would be very grateful to hear from anybody who are interested in the invader, and the more so if they can offer answers to my enquiry.

All the best, Haydn.
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