Stupid Question??

To keep it somewhat short and simple; (I'll probably fail though!)

Dry-brushing and washes are techniques used to highlight detail and/or add a bit of depth and realism to a model. Washes generally are used to create or enhance shadows, with a follow up of dry-brushing adding the look of light reflecting off of highpoints.

The term dry-brushing is rather self-explanatory. The color used generally should be a lighter variation of the base color already on the model. (Experiment with different colors!) Get some paint on a brush and wipe it almost clean using a rag or paper towel, old T-shirt, new living room drapes, carpet... There should be a small amount of paint left on the brush. Gently whisk the brush over prominent details, just touching the highpoints. After awhile you'll see that these details will start to stand out even more prominently.

A wash is basically paint thinned to the extreme. A whole bunch of thinner and a very small amount of paint constitutes most washes, but it depends on the look you're going for, so experiment with thinning ratios. Also experiment with different colors, but you generally will want to keep them dark.

To apply a wash, simply dip a brush into the mixture and apply to the model in areas of concentrated detail. It'll flow into the crevices and corners and create a fidelity of detail that, especially when combined with dry-brushing, will lend a realistic look to the model.

WARNING! Be sure that the paint and thinner you use will not lift the underlying paint. ie; don't use an enamel wash on an enamel paintjob. There are many different types of paint and thinners you can use, experiment and see what suits you. Some of the more popular washes are made with oil paints and enamels. Also, some like to use India ink. Others use tempera paint. Again, lotsa choices. I prefer enamel washes (over a lacquer-sealed enamel paint-job) and watercolor washes.

Fade to Black...

Thanks, Wolf...that explains it pretty thoroughly. What you are saying is....if i am using Humbrol paint for the paint job, i should not use Humbrol paints for the wash or dry brushing...is that basically correct.

Huskerguy

Yep, thats pretty much what he is saying. Over the years I have learned how to translate Stevewonese. What happens if you use an enamel wash over enamel paint you end up ruining the enamel paint underneath because the wash is primarily enamel thinner. Over Humbrol you'd probably want to use a watercolor wash since water will not hurt the enamel.

You can use, for instance, humbrol to dry brush over humbrol. As it's dry brushing, there's hardly any thinner to lift the underlying paint. Or, once the initial coat is dry, (2 days or so) spray with gloss acrylic varnish (humbrol) apply the decals, then dry brush/ wash paint, then apply matt/ semi gloss or gloss varnish to protect the finish. matt or semi gloss looks more realistic unless you're building say, a blue angels aircraft.

the only stupid question is the one not asked... congrats on having the nerve to ask something people assume everyone already knows :)

I have even used the index finger tip of my right hand ( dry-fingering ? ) for applying paint to raised areas. Just have to remember to clean finger off IMMEDIATELY when done.

Blackwolfscd has given an idiot proof description of drybrushing that even a beginner like me can follow...... Thanks .....However I still have a few more questions to ask...
Where else does one dry brush other than the cockpit. Are there any other parts on the aircraft that require dry brushing?? To be more specific where does one dry brush on the thunderbolt??
Adding to that, what does one do after dry brushing?I saw this article on Aircraft resource center that showed a dry brushed spitfire cockpit. But Do I just leave the instrument panel with a coat of gloss after dry brushing or is there anything more that has to be done??

Sorry about the number of questions.. but I really am trying hard to progress in this hobby even if such progress is alarmingly slow!!

Thanking you in advance,

Nandakumar