I screwed up!

nsclcctl

Member since
May 2003
From: USA

I screwed up!

Posted by nsclcctl on Friday, May 16, 2003 5:53 AM

OK, so I tried it on the real thing first, and screwed up. How can I recover?

3 parts water, 5 parts enamel flat black and 1 part dish soap.

It was an old mustand that really looked good. Silver, red tail, th ewhole nine yards. Decals were already on it of course because I did it 3 years ago.

Took it off the shelf, dusted it extensivly and cleaned it up. Hand brushed 2 coats of future, let dry 24 hrs.

Brushed on the wash in the panel lines, tried to be careful but of course it was on the wings.

Waited 15 minutes and wallah, it was dry. Can't get the excess off. The upper surface is now blurred flat black.

What did I do wrong and is there any way to fix this. Seems if I scrub with a wet cue tip it comes off, but so does the panel lines.

Any suggestions. Sorry, I am impatient and in a hurry. This is what I yell at my kids about all the time. Guilty as charged!

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 16, 2003 6:58 AM

First of all you have issues with your wash formula. 1. You can't mix an enamel and water, you must use a thinner designed to "thin" the paint. I normally use the paint manufactures brand of thinner. 2. You need to use a different type of paint for a wash than you used to paint the model. Otherwise you will lift the nice paint job you worked so hard for. An acrylic paint wash would go over an enamel base coat or vice versa. I paint with Model Master and wash with Tamiya. 3. The ratio you tried has way to much paint in it. You basicly want tinted thinner for a wash. I use about 90% thinner to 10% paint just a guess.

Now just take a small brush and flow it in the recesses, wipe away the excess, and your done. Easy as 1-2-3!

Darren

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Edit

nsclcctl

Member since
May 2003
From: USA

Posted by nsclcctl on Friday, May 16, 2003 8:57 AM

I'm sorry, I keep saying enamel. I used the water based acryic. That was not the issue. The paint and water and soap mixed well. But, with that said, I probably had too much paint or not enough soap. Is the soap designed to keep the mix fluid so it can be wiped off. Anyone else? Please help, can I recover this?

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ADleitch

Member since
January 2003
From: Syracuse, NY

Posted by ADleitch on Friday, May 16, 2003 5:25 PM

Look to the left under "Browse-by-Subject", click on "Techniques", scroll down until you see a picture of a Skyraider called "Easy Aircraft Weathering". Its available online so you can read the total system to this kind of weathering, follow it to the letter and you will have great results.

Its Better to Burn out than to Fade Away!!!

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leemitcheltree

Member since
January 2003
From: Washington State

Posted by leemitcheltree on Friday, May 16, 2003 8:09 PM

I think the real problem is that you've basically used an acrylic (the wash) over an acrylic (the Future) and the wash has eaten into the clearcoat. I don't know how to fix this problem. The Future bottle says a dilute ammonia solution takes off the Future, maybe try varying dilutions on a tiny hidden area of the model to see if you can use this solution to remove the Future and still not damage the underlying paint - also I don't know how the ammonia solution would affect decals.
I really think this option will work, provided, of course, that it doesn't eat your paintwork.
Next time, clear coat with the Future, and washwith enamels. Others use oils with fantastic results but I've not yet tried oil washes. Good luck and email me and let me know how you get on with it.
Cheers, Lee Tree

Cheers, LeeTree
Remember, Safety Fast!!!

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NEPTUN

Member since
February 2003

Posted by NEPTUN on Saturday, May 17, 2003 4:23 PM

hi
In situations like this is only one solution for my opinion:
Modelstripe or somthing like this and aftermarket decals.
Is hard i know but i do this in my Albatros

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rjkplasticmod

Member since
February 2003
From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State

Posted by rjkplasticmod on Monday, May 19, 2003 9:10 PM

I have used acrylic washes in panel lines over Future without problems. The soap in your formula looks pretty aggressive, usually just a drop or two is sufficient. The soap helps prevent acrylics from puddling when applied over larger areas like cockpit sidewall detail and isn't really needed for panel lines. I think your problem was the dry time of 15 minutes. Some acrylics set up very fast and once dry are hard to wipe off. I work on small areas at a time and never let the paint dry for more than a minute or so. Visually, as soon as the paint loses it's "wet" look you want to wipe the excess off the surface. Always wipe perpindicular to the panel line to minimize wiping the wash out of the panel line. If you do lose some (you will) just repeat the process .

Rick

RICK

At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...

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nzgunnie

Member since
February 2003
From: New Zealand

Posted by nzgunnie on Monday, May 19, 2003 9:28 PM

If you use enamels thinned with turpentine for your wash (although over future as turps is pretty aggressive) you will be able to wipe off the excess. The trouble with acrylics is once they are dry, they are very hard to remove as they fully cure pretty much as they dry. Where as enamels have quite a long curing time between being touch dry and completely cured (about 2 days give or take, depending on many things). This means you can let them become touch dry and still soften them up again to take off the exra paint.

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robvandodewaard

Member since
December 2002
From: Netherlands

Posted by robvandodewaard on Tuesday, May 20, 2003 3:41 AM

INSTEAD NORMA L ACRYLICS WICH ARE WATER RESISTANT WHEN THEY ARE DRYED TRY AQUARELLE PAINT OR CHILDREN PAINT THEY WILL ALWAYS REACT WITH WATER NO MATTER HOW LONG THEY HAVE DRUED

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nsclcctl

Member since
May 2003
From: USA

Posted by nsclcctl on Tuesday, May 20, 2003 10:43 AM

I see. These posts have been extremly helpful. It appeared to me that the opinion was to wait 15 minutes, then go back with a wet cuetip. The post above suggests a minute or so and small areas. I bet that will work better.

Thanks, this was great. I did do the Mustang as described and frankly, it looks worn and beaten. I suppose that is OK. I would like a little more refined look however. Thanks for your-alls help. It was appreciated.

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