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Photo Etched Parts,Fastening to Model

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7 replies
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  • Member since
    January 2003
Photo Etched Parts,Fastening to Model
Posted by TEISE on Friday, May 16, 2003 12:37 PM
What a great site this is and what a boon to the hobby.Having said that ; what is the best way to attach subject parts to painted plastic,model aircraft? I don't believe i've seen any comments on this.
Thanks in advance for any /all answers.

Teise
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: East Bethel, MN
Posted by midnightprowler on Friday, May 16, 2003 4:43 PM
Use one of three glues, 5 minute epoxy, crazy glue, or clear enamel.
Lee

Hi, I am Lee, I am a plastiholic.

Co. A, 682 Engineers, Ltchfield, MN, 1980-1986

1 Thessalonians 4:13-18 1 Corinthians 15:51-54

Ask me about Speedway Decals

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 16, 2003 5:54 PM
The only fixative I use is super glue, or Mod Podge for attaching to clear parts.

demono69
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Friday, May 16, 2003 6:08 PM
Cyanoacrylate for sure. Thin glue for larger parts and thick followed by a dap of accelerator for smaller parts. Big Smile [:D]

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: East Bethel, MN
Posted by midnightprowler on Friday, May 16, 2003 8:59 PM
The only problem with superglue is it can sometimes leave a white residue. I know I suggested it, but I prefer to use epoxy or enamel.
Lee

Hi, I am Lee, I am a plastiholic.

Co. A, 682 Engineers, Ltchfield, MN, 1980-1986

1 Thessalonians 4:13-18 1 Corinthians 15:51-54

Ask me about Speedway Decals

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Friday, May 16, 2003 10:33 PM
It is true that the fumes from curing CA can cause crazing but when you get the hang of it, it's not a problem. I don't like epoxy because of the cure time and the waste. If you have to put a canopy mirror on for example there are two ways to avoid the crazing and the attachment is done in seconds. The first way would be a dab of liquid mask adjacent to the spot to be glued. I only use that trick if the area is very tight. Most of the time I have a small personal fan blowing across and away from the glue spot. I place the part, add a tiny amount of glue, and finish with tiny dab of accelerator. The tools I use for this are small sewing needles placed in dowel handles and with the very end of the needle eye cut off. I use nippers to break the end of the needle eye off, but protect your eyes that little piece of steel flies off quick!Big Smile [:D]

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, May 18, 2003 6:12 PM
or just prime and paint the part!
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Sunday, May 18, 2003 6:44 PM
You'll get a better bond if you can glue metal to plastic. You'll end up with a weak join that could fail over time, with a metal to paint bond. That may not be an issue if you don't hold onto your built kits long. It is also dubious that priming will be used on a clear part. I personally don't prime anything, instead I rely on the preperation of the plastic. The exception would be an additional coat of paint over a heavily filled seam. My seams are invisible so I don't usually prime. Some prime, some don't.Smile [:)]

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
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