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To dull coat or not to dull coat?

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  • Member since
    November 2005
To dull coat or not to dull coat?
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 20, 2003 7:35 AM
My current project is a 1/35 spitfire. It is painted testorss flat olive drab on the top (glossed over when I put on the decals) and testors gloss light blue enamel bottom. It looks nice the way it is, but the blue is very shiny and bright. I was thinking about using testors dull coat over the whole plane when finished, but I have always been afraid to do it in the past fearing I may ruin the planes appearance. Any suggestions on how I should proceed would be appreciated. Please consider I am a beginner and generally only have acces to testors/model master spray can paints and finishes. Also - is it okay to gloss coat a gloss paint finish after decals are applied to seal it.

As always, thanks to everyone who responds and shares their experiences with me. Happy Modeling!

Paul
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Monday, January 20, 2003 8:15 AM
Hello Paul,

I've always been reluctant to use varnishes, particularly for the sake of decals, and this even for my airliners.... Past experiences and numerous disasters, particularly with stuff in cans, have made me that way!

Flat colors are easier to apply, I find, and instead of risking twice seeing my finish not ending up like what I want, I've come with the 'technique' of applying my decals onto fresh and still wet patches of Future floor varnish. This seem to drastically reduce the 'silvering' effect, those pesky air bubbles that are trapped between the paint and decal. If you can get your hands on decal setting solutions, the combined use of Future and decal solutions will do the trick at 98%. For the remaining 2%, which you'll see when the decal is dry on your model, use a needle to pin-prick the decal and put some more Future or decal solution.

Normally, a normal layer of Future will not change the appearance of your paint (you know that gloss varnish tends to make the paint look 'wetter', darker. If it does another thin coat of Future will even things out and may give you a satin finish which is often closer to reality that flat finishes anyway.

As for your Spit, if you're happy with it, leave it as it is. If you are not, take the risk with a matt/satin varnish.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by jcarlberg on Monday, January 20, 2003 11:29 AM
I have used pretty nearly every kind of varnish, whether lacquer aerosol, lacquer airbrushed, or acrylic airbrushed or handbrushed. In the large scale you are working in, airbrush or aerosol can is the way to go. Good technique makes a good result possible. If using aerosol cans, the paint it is to be applied over must be thoroughly cured, probably at least a week, or two weeks for gloss. The spray cans can be warmed in warm water, and the model should be room temperature on its surface. Aerosol lacquers like Dullcote must be applied carefully, in thin layers. Glosses are tricky, too. Usually an initial "dust coat" is required to protect the surface and prepare it for a heavier coat. The heavier coat should still be pretty light, as the solvents in the spray can soften and attack the underlying paint. Several light coats will prepare the model for decals, which when dry can be protected with the Dullcote. If Dullcote is cold or is applied too heavily or in a high-humidity environment, it can "frost", giving a whitish overall cast, or it can give a patchwork effect, wher some areas appear flat and others semi-gloss. I have had the best results from acrylic coatings airbrushed over thoroughly dry surfaces. Acrylics won't bother enamels, and usually are fine with the same manufacturer's acrylics, but may not be compatible with other manufacturer's acrylic colors. I will say, though, that on 1/72 subjects I have had good luck handbrushing Acryl clear coats.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Monday, January 20, 2003 11:58 PM
I think you want to soften that blue on the bottom. I would stay away from the Testors clear flat. My experience is that it "models" leaving a spotty finish. Last time I used it I nearly broke down :-) I would also suggest (as mentioned above) never to use the Testors clear gloss. Use Future floor polish instead. It out performs Testors even if you brush it on. It's a whole lot cheaper too! One of the best tips I've ever received from Paul Boyer of FSM. As for a flat finish, I've had good luck with Microscale products finishes. They have a nice line of clear finishes that you'll be happy with and that wont screw up your model. Good luck!
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Upper left side of the lower Penninsula of Mich
Posted by dkmacin on Thursday, January 23, 2003 8:14 PM
Future makes a very good gloss coat. . .but if you need a good flat coat and are reluctant to use anything from a spray can, try a mix of rubbing alcohol and white glue. It's cheap and it works! I use 20% white glue (Elmers) and 80% isopropol rubbing alcohol sprayed through my AZTEC. It isn't absolute dead flat but it takes the sheen away
I know it's only rock and roll, but I like it.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Canada
Posted by James Mark on Friday, January 24, 2003 11:35 PM
I use TAMIYA acrylics to paint my models...I am in the same predicament as paccardi (the author who started this thread) I have never put a clear coat of any sort on a finished model...I have just bought FUTURE and will try it, but for a clear flat I have set myself up with dullcote....does anyone know if Dullcote (thinned with lacquer thinner) sprayed through an airbrush will damage the underlying paint?

Thanks

James
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Saturday, January 25, 2003 4:19 AM
To dkmacin:

That sounds quite interesting! I'm gonna try that.
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