Well, as regards basic stuff that you look for while judging:
1) Basic construction is paramount. It has to be put together well with all seams cleanly filled (no traces showing) and no glue marks or sloppiness anywhere. Also, things like canopies have knocked many a model out of first place because they were put on crooked. Ejection seats too. I can't tell you how many models I've seen (whether judging or not) that were beatifully built and painted, but had alotta things put on or in crooked. Speaking of paint...
2) The paint must be well done. Orange peel and sandpaper finishes won't cut it. Smooth paint with good clean demarcation lines between colors on a camo scheme is essential. If you're doing a bare metal bird, make sure no scratches are showing through the paint.
Detail painting is just as crucial as the overall paint job. Wheels are a good example of where alotta fellas fail; the separation between wheel and tire has to be perfect. No ifs ands or buts about this type of stuff. It has to be done cleanly. Also, a well painted or badly painted cockpit WILL make or break a model.
3) Decals, for the most part, must look painted on. This can sometimes be difficult, especially with some of the thicker decals. Silvering must be non-existant and no upside down stars and bars!
The big problem is usually the thickness of the decals showing, even if there's no silvering or other problems. This can't always be helped, but it is a factor in judging. One way to avoid this is to ditch the kit decals and get some good aftermarket stuff. Most kit decals are only good as kindling for the campfire anyway...
4) Finishing must be carried all the way through. Some folks don't like to weather their models. That's fine with me, even though, to my eye, they look unfinished that way. But what's worse to me than an unweathered model is a partially weathered model. Alotta guys seem to put chordite and exhaust stains on a WWII fighter and leave it at that. Or they may put some really ugly paint chipping all over the place. But they don't do anything else.
Also, the weathering has to be done just as nicely as the rest of the model. It can't be sloppily done. I've seen many a model where a guy used washes and let the stuff drip all over the place and didn't bother to completely clean it up. And pastels often times look like they're just dusted on and left laying on the surface of the model. 'Ya gotta work that stuff in.
Now, presentation of the model, ie: a base, should be totally irrelevant unless it's a diorama. So many people have said to me that it's impossible to ignore a base.
Bull. Maybe for them it's tough, but not for me. As a judge, I consider the model and
nothing else. It's rather easy to do, actually. I dunno, maybe I'm one of the few who can differentiate between the model and the base.
Now I usually put my stuff on bases. I do so because my aim in building a model is not to impress a judge at a model show, but to satisfy myself in creating a piece of art. I really don't care what anyone else thinks, but if someone likes what I've done great. If someone doesn't like what I've done, too bad. Their loss.
As far as my bases go, I use them for a number of reasons; 1) the aforementioned personal satisfaction 2) ease of handling of the finished model 3) I don't want judges picking my model up.
This last is a pet peeve of mine. I don't like ANYONE touching my models. So hopefully a model being on a base will trigger the thought in a judges head that, "hey! this thing's attached, and I shouldn't touch it 'cuz it might break..." But everyone knows the world is full of stupid people, and lotsa these are judges at model shows. I really enjoyed ripping a new one for the head aircraft judge at a regional a few years back 'cuz my P-47 got yanked off the base, leaving the landing gear. That was fun.
Anyhoo, I got off on a tangent there. Put a model on a base if you so desire, but don't do it 'cuz you think it might help you win. Do it because you wanna do it. Although, with some of the DADS types that are judging out there, a base probably would help you win. But that's not how it should be.
Okay, here's a good example of a model that cleans up at shows, but really shouldn't. This falls under the realm of accuracy, and has nothing to do with the basics. I just have to get this one off my chest.
This rather well-known fella (no names) built a 32nd MiG-21 of the Czech Air Force. Some of you may know the funky gray splinter scheme carried at one time by Bort 7701:
This guy did a nice job on his model. It's not the finest piece of work I've seen, but it's a really nice build. However, he put the national insignia on the wrong way, similar to the upside down stars and bars you see now and again.
On Czech AF aircraft, the Insignia on the tail should have the white portion on top, red on bottom and blue forward. On the wings, the blue is forward, the red is on the inside and the white is on the outside. This is not open to interpretation, that's how ALL Czech AF aircraft were marked.
This fella messed this up on the model BIG time. He's got the white portion on the wings facing forward and the insignia on the tail are not only cockeyed, but if I remember right, they're cockeyed differently on either side!
I don't wanna post a pic of the model, cuz I don't want to put the guy down; he did a good job overall and it's a nice model. But it keeps placing first just about everywhere it goes and has taken a few best-ofs, including regionals and last year's NATS.
Now to the point of this rambling. I simply mentioned this as a demonstrative example proving that IPMS judges are not infallible (or as knowledgable as they sometimes profess to be, or are commonly percieved as being) and that some guys win simply because of who they are. And that's coming from an IPMS judge...
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