painting inside after-burner cans

JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

painting inside after-burner cans

Posted by JWest21 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 1:05 PM

I finally got a look inside the cans of an F-15E and noticed that the insides seem to have a whitish coloration to them. Not sure if this is ceramics or what,but I was wondering what methods you guys use to duplicate it. I was thinking probably a drybrush, but wanted to see if anyone had any other methods or tips

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, June 2, 2005 1:36 PM

Here's how I do it. You are correct: The inside of those exhausts are coated with white porcelin to reflect the heat. I've found it very realistic, after painting the inside semi-gloss white, to take some Metalizer Exhaust or whatever your use for that, put the nozzle of the airbrush inside the front end of the exhaust, and spray toward the rear, just as the exhaust does on the real thing. It causes the paint, on burners and exhaust pipes with interior detail, to gather in the places it normally does on the real thing. It works especially well on Hasegawa F-15's, F-14's and F-16's, and I think F-18s, though I haven't tried the latter myself.
TOM

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 1:58 PM

Thanks, Tom. I am planning to give it a shot on the Hase F-4 I am planning to start. Just spent $8 on the PE inserts, so I figure I better do it right! I assume you just spray a little, look at it and respray as necessary

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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berny13

Member since
February 2003
From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley

Posted by berny13 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 3:22 PM

The inside of the F-4 exhaust is a light shade of green, when the liners are new. After many hours of flight the green turns lighter and will have black streaks throughout the liners. After about 300 hours the color is a light rust color with black streaks. At 600 hours it is a mediam gray with black streaks and after 900 hours a dark gray/black. At 1200 hours it is all black and ready for a complete rebuild. That is if the engine makes it to 1200 flight hours.

Berny

Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale.

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale. F-4 Phantom Group Build.

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 6:56 PM

Berny- would you happen to have any pics of that???

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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berny13

Member since
February 2003
From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley

Posted by berny13 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 8:05 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by JWest21

Berny- would you happen to have any pics of that???

Sorry, I don't have any photographs of the inside of the exhaust. You may be able to locate some good shots somewhere on the web.

Berny

Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale.

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale. F-4 Phantom Group Build.

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 8:13 PM

I found some at aircraftresourcecenter. They seem to be the rust-ish color with some streaking. I will keep looking...trying to get a feel of what they look like. Thanks!

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Kolja94

Member since
December 2002
From: Oak Harbor, WA

Posted by Kolja94 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 11:29 PM

another technique for F-15-style exhausts I've used is to paint it a black/gray exhaust-type color and then do a relatively heavy "drybursh" with white - you want the white on there, but not to cover the black... just another idea that's worked decently for me.

Karl

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albert_sy2

Member since
May 2004
From: Singapore

Posted by albert_sy2 on Friday, June 3, 2005 12:37 AM

^I do it the reverse from what you just posted. I paint the exhaust white, then dry brush with black.

Groovy baby

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 3, 2005 1:45 AM

It depends on the way you wanna display your engine. The way i did mine was paint the 4th stage turbine blades flat black. and the aug (exhaust can). Light tan/peach and used a lighter and lit a piece of model spur (plastic frame of model kit) it makes a thick black smoke that sticks to the inside. Just dont do it inside and have something under you to catch the melting plastic. Keep the burning piece of plastic a safe distance from the piece your working with ot the heat will warp it.. take your time pratice with a scrap piece so you can get use to it. And finally dont overdo it..

here is a pic to illustrate 1st is real 2nd is my model
# 1

#2

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72cuda

Member since
July 2003
From: USA

Posted by 72cuda on Friday, June 3, 2005 8:03 AM

most of the newer augmented (afterburning) engines today use a Cobalt white coating in the augmentation section the Pratt-Whittney & GE engines on most of the US aircraft are white with burnt streaks (I paint my agmenters white and use rust/black mixture on my kits) and the older GE engines like J79's where green with black streaks (I paint them pale green and use rust/black mixturefor the streaks), and most others aircraft I go by the old GE augmenters

84 of 795 1/72 Aircraft Competed for Lackland's Airman Heritage Museum

Was a Hawg Jet Fixer, now I'm a FRED Fixer

'Cuda

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GA.modelmaker

Member since
November 2003
From: savannah ga.

Posted by GA.modelmaker on Friday, June 3, 2005 1:15 PM

thanks for that info guys that will be very helpfull for my f-4 and my other projects Big Smile [:D]

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umiami91

Member since
December 2002
From: Alabama, USA

Posted by umiami91 on Friday, June 3, 2005 1:22 PM

I paint mine with a couple fairly heavy coats of Tamiya white and then use a fairly thin dirty wash over it. I've been pretty happy with the results.

Mike Dahlstrom

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -attributed to Dave Barry

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Saturday, June 4, 2005 11:23 AM

Awesome info guys

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 12:44 AM

hope to see some pics when your done!!

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 5:38 AM

Is this new MM "jet exhaust" color, which is a sort of metallic olive green, supposed to replicate what you were referring to on the F-4's J-79's, Bernie? I bought the color, but am baffled as to its use. I've used my old method -- painting the later engines (later than the J-79) with the white inside oversprayed from the rear with exhaust -- for so long, I don't recall seeing any such color as this MM shade.
TOM

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berny13

Member since
February 2003
From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley

Posted by berny13 on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 5:06 PM

It sure is Tom. I just fount it at Hobby Lobby this last week. And here I have been, mixing my own. Sad [:(]

Berny

Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale.

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale. F-4 Phantom Group Build.

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upnorth

Member since
December 2002
From: Canada / Czech Republic

Posted by upnorth on Wednesday, June 8, 2005 4:11 AM

Testors has a color in the automotive colours range of the Model Master line called "Ivory", I find that if you add just a touch of gloss white to it, paint the inside of of a modern burner can with it and flat coat it, it almost perfectly matches that scorched white colur.

After that, I take a cotton swab dipped in dust from artist's charcoal and make straight lines starting from the final fan stage of the engine to the outer lip of the burner can.

If you dip the swab lightly in the dust, you can control the density of the black streak it leaves quite well.

After that you just flat coat to seal it in and you're done.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, June 8, 2005 5:59 AM

You can simulate this with some dry pastels(black,dark brown),painted inside petals first with an off white color.
http://www.fishesnpets.net/explore/explore/PayaLebarAirbase02092001/f16exhaust2.jpg

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