Is there Future in your models?

Hey LF Welcome to the world of future

Ive been using future for a while but havent had any problems so far......to dip you canopies...all you have to do is get some glass cleaner and a measuring cup and fill it with the future so it will cover you canopy completly....first though clean you canopy in mild soapy water..then let it air dry and clean it with the window cleaner.....buff the cleaner with a soft cotton cloth when dry..then use treezers or good ole fingers and drop it in the solution and take it back out after its coated and sit it on a clean paper plate with the side that will be glued to the model face down on the plate...the top of it should not touch the plate so dont tip it over....though at first you might want to take a tooth pick and push it around the plate a little so it dont dry to the plate .....but it will usually take 30minutes to dry...but its safe to wait till the next day b4 you handle it ..and still you dont need to paint anything or handle it too much...(so do your painting first) When you glue it on the model,(use clear glass glue ofcoarse),...you can dip a q-tip in some future and add another coat if need be....To glosscoat...you want a clean surface again wash all you parts in the soapy water b4 ur paint...(TIP: get some gloves like the docters use w/o powder and stuff on them..to reduce fingerprints and oils from your hands)
Basically add you paint, let dry ,then airbrush a thin coat of future(No thinning is required with future) add another color on top if you have too or have it completly painted if you dont want to take the extra steps...but after a coat or two of future is aplied add the decals...spray this with 1-2-or 3,if you wish, thin coats of future.....this ofcoarse seals the
paint/Bare-metal foil/decals/and also creats a surface where you can add washes to bring out your panel lines(but use thinner to remove the access paint from the washes)...the future keeps the thinner from getting to the paint underneath...but dont use too much thinner though...it like the saying in school about the glue.."A dot is a lot" so use just enough to remove the access......anyways..after all is dried you can add you dull coat...best by airbrush..if you added the canopy already or any other lenses or clear part mask them off.....(Save clear parts to add last)
Also to clean future you normally add water...but if its dried you can use ammonia..but ive never used ammonia so it could damage other parts of the model..so thats why you use thin coats of future when you can to prevent this.
I hope this help...it almost everything you need to know...as a basic understanding for future...and when used properly it has many many purposes....so just experiment with each model and get a feel for it.


PHEW!!! my wrists have carpotunnel

Shark708 pretty much nailed it.

I do my canopies a little bit differently, I fix a piece of tape on the back edge of the canopy, dip and hang from edge of table. I then take a piece of paper towel and whisk the bottom edge to absord the excess drippings.

An ammonia based floor clearer should take care of FUBAR