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I need a REALLY flat finish

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  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Upper left side of the lower Penninsula of Mich
Posted by dkmacin on Monday, August 25, 2003 7:18 PM
The RUSTALL system has an absolute DEAD flat included with it.
It is really flat, I'm not sure if they sell it seperately though.
BW. . .what is your method? C'mon Out With It Man!!

Don
I know it's only rock and roll, but I like it.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 24, 2003 2:51 PM
steveO you're killing me with all the waiting!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 22, 2003 11:00 PM
oooh wolfie i'm intrigued...cant wait to hear more details

dkmacin i think the lusterless flat is what i have now and is giving me more of a satin finish...not quite flat enough...
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Upper left side of the lower Penninsula of Mich
Posted by dkmacin on Friday, August 22, 2003 8:48 PM
Testor's also has a Lusterless Flat that I have hadsome sucess with. . .if you shake the can before and after warming it up, if you don't shake it well, you will be sorry, trust me!
I have also been experimenting with 70% Isopropol Alcohol and ordinary white glue 30%, with some pretty good results.

Don
I know it's only rock and roll, but I like it.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Pominville, NY
Posted by BlackWolf3945 on Friday, August 22, 2003 8:12 PM
Hey Mer,

Testors Dullcoat is my flat coat of choice. I use a similar technique to what Pix uses, but I just build it up gradually in VERY light coats.

I have a secret weapon that I use to cut down on the residual sheen that Drew referred to. Not really a secret weapon, just a technique. I'll have to take some photos and get back with the explanation.


Fade to Black...
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 22, 2003 5:31 PM
hey drew that sounds like a great product! i'll check it out!
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Friday, August 22, 2003 5:11 PM
I find that most "flat" clears still have the shine to them from the gloss coat underneath. I use floquil dust for a flat finish. It is found in the railroad paints line and with a second and third applications it will fade the paint to a lighter shade for a bit of easy weathering. I just mist on the first coat, and spray fine lines to fade in select areas.
Take this plastic and model it!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 7:38 PM
thanks guys! i can see getting the right finish is going to turn into a whole new technique to master...lol...thanks for all your help!
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Thursday, August 21, 2003 7:32 PM
Mer I think they cleared it up for you but spraying it "dry" it should not get the wet glossy look to it. You can either add a little more thinner, back away with your airbrush or just spray a smaller stream. I usually use the back away method so I can spray a little more and see it in the air so I can tell where I'm spraying. I use the model masters dull coat and always thin it around 25% with lacquer thinner. I spray multiple light coats to build up slow and "dry" Big Smile [:D] You'll get the hang of it and you can go back over areas later that aren't quite dull enough.

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 7:15 PM
got it! thanks for the clarification.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by nzgunnie on Thursday, August 21, 2003 7:12 PM
I find that Humbrol matt is about as matt as it gets.

As for wet vs dry, when you spray any paint, it looks 'wet' when first applied, this means that the paint still has enough solvent, and is the right thickness, to smooth out before it dries. The line between 'wet' and running down the model in big drips is sometimes a little hard to get right!

By avoiding the 'wet' look as you spray you are letting some fo the solvent dry off in the air between the airbrush and the model, and the paint is going on in a mist that is not thick enough to look wet. What this acheives is more 'tooth' as the paint does not have time to smooth out on the model before drying.

This ensures that your matt coat does not become satin through being too smoth.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 7:02 PM
wait, you had said dont spray it til it looks wet...did you mean dont spray it til it looks dry? i'm confused.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 6:59 PM
Thanks, glad to be of help. Just be careful not to put it on "wet." Practice, if you can, on something other than that which you have invested so much time & care.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 6:27 PM
wow! that looks awesome! that's exactly what i'm looking for! thanks!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 6:24 PM
I always apply it over Future. Do light, dusting coats. Even if it doesn't appear to be turning flat, wait before applying more. The slow buildup prevents to much accumulation at one time. Don't spray it till it looks wet. If you have something with which you can test it, do so. You don't want to get to the last stage of the model, only to "botch" the last step. Good Luck !
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 6:18 PM
thanks for the help! one last question, will using the lacquer/thinner combo melt my acrylic paint job?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 6:14 PM
Mer - The product to which I referred is Testor's Dullcoat Lacquer. (product # 1160). It comes in a 1 3/4 oz. bottle. I thin this with lacquer thinner, and apply it in the same manner as Future ( misting coats, followed by heavier). BE CAREFUL, though, when using this. If you apply too heavy a coat, it can "Frost" on you, making the finish resemble winter-white camouflage. Hope this helps !
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 5:52 PM
are testors and model masters not the same? i think all this time i've been thinking they were but it sounds like they arent.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 3:51 PM
I have gotten dead-flat finishes with Testor's dullcoat. I found out that a reaction occurs when I applied it directly over Gunze acrylics. I have had no problems getting a flat finish w/ dullcoat over Future. Its the only system I use.
  • Member since
    December 2009
  • From: West Grove, PA
Posted by wildwilliam on Thursday, August 21, 2003 3:25 PM
i used Future w/ Tamiya's flat base to flat coat my Stuka.
i went 10:3 (future to flat base).
there is still a hint of sheen, so i guess you could bump it up.
if you have time and inclination, try it out on a mule or some styrene first.
(always a good idea anyway)

ed.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Medina, Ohio
Posted by wayne baker on Thursday, August 21, 2003 1:55 PM
I like Floquil's Railroad colors clear flat.

 I may get so drunk, I have to crawl home. But dammit, I'll crawl like a Marine.

  • Member since
    November 2005
I need a REALLY flat finish
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 21, 2003 1:38 PM
okay, so what do you guys use to get the final clear coat really flat. i'm painting my ac with Tamiya acrylics interspersed with various coats of future for sealing, weathering etc, the finishing wih Model Masters Lacquer Overcoat Lusterless (Flat)...but the finish doesnt really seem flat. It's more satin. There's definitely a light sheen. What would you recommend for a truly flat finish?
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