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Repositioning control surfaces...

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Repositioning control surfaces...
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 1:33 PM
I was just wondering how (if it is possible) you go about cutting out, say, an aileron or flap, or elevator to make it look like its in flight. I have a 1/72 F/A-18E Super Hornet model I wanna experiment on, and was wondering what I would use to cut the parts. I've got enough pictures so I could put them in the right position so that is no problem. I also have a 1/48 scale Super Hornet that I'd really like to duplicate this technique on as I put the landing gear up and will be hanging it.

Thanks for any suggestions!!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 2:03 PM
To cut out the ailerons, flaps, or whatever surface, lightly score along the panel line with a #11 blade, making progressively deeper cuts with each pass. Eventually, the piece will be cut through. Then, it's just a matter of cleanup and reattachment in the desired location. You may also have to use a bit of filler or putty to cover any holes left in the wing structure, or to create the control rods for the surfaces. If the flaps get damaged, scratch building new ones may also be necessary. The key is to take your time and work carefully.

Good luck!

demono69
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 4:19 PM
Hey, thanks for the advice! I've been practicing on some older, trashed models and its going great! Will definately do this on my next planes. I get sick of the surfaces always being in the same position. Whether they're "flying" or on the ground.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by 72cuda on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 7:12 PM
Hey boss;
remember that the stab's are independent from each other on the newer fighters, the F-14, 15, 16, & 18's horizontal stab only work by full stick inputs so it'll be alright to have the left (or RT) stab in a different position then the other, also on the F-16's & 18's they have flaperons, the outer wing panels on the 18 are independent from the other side too so if you want to have the A/C in a bank with it all hanging out then the flaperon on the lower side will not have the the angle as the opposite side, as for doing the mod's I generally scribe with an #11 exacto then use a rescribing tool cut the rest (it leaves a better cut angle then having to sand the removed part) but like DEMONO69 stated for the clean up and filling, but have fun and remember with the newer fighters the flight control surfaces are totally independent from each other, only with the straight input from the stick then they'll react the same
cuda

84 of 795 1/72 Aircraft Competed for Lackland's Airman Heritage Museum

Was a Hawg Jet Fixer, now I'm a FRED Fixer   

 'Cuda

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 8:53 PM
If you are going to use an exacto blade, be sure to use the back of the blade as a scribing tool, not the sharp cutting edge. Multiple light passes are best. I use a scribing tool myself, It gives a cleaner smaller cut that I prefer.
You will also need to add strip stock to the edges of the control after its removed. This is important inorder to achieve the proper scale gaps between the controls. The material removed would leave huge gaps that would look bad. Most flight controls have very little space between them on real acrft.. Don't forget to box in the spaces left after removing the control, especially when it comes to flaps. Hinges, brackets and actuators will most likely need to be built also.

Goodluck
Darren
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