LaGGing behind

Wooaahhhh.... A LaGG, no less! Great job, Pix... you gonna make a picture of that one, screaming through the heavens (either down or up, depending on what he's up against)

Crude to the extreme you say? One of those "Guaranteed" to put you in the "Varnished Coffin" types, aye?

Nice build, thanks for the pic's, Pix!
Frank

Well, I've got an AMT Hs 129 on the bench now . . .Kinda thinking of having ole Ivan kicking some Hiney !
Yeah, this kit makes limited-run Czec kits appear to be state-of-the-art. Its a shame, too. I also have their IAR 80 (NICE lookin little plane !), but they're a lot of work for me & I don't scratchbuild. Oh, well. . . someday.
Hey, you use Photoshop, don't you? If you'd like, I can send you a PSD of a spinning prop. It took me about 8 hours to get it the way I wanted it, & its the only one I use now. It works well, unless you try it at an oblique angle. Do you know of any good alternatives to stretching sprue for antennas?
THANKS FOR THE COMPLIMENT ! ! !
Your friend, Pix.

That's a fine-looking model for 5 bux, Pix!
Reinforces the fact that it's the artist and not the canvas that creates the masterpiece!

Thanks, J-Hulk ! I would hardly consider this a masterpiece, though ! Here's what their kits look like in the box. This is their Yak 9. What you can't see is the fit . . .And check out that flash ! If you get one of these, get new blades & some extra filler !

Hey Pix,
Your LaGG 3 is well done. The way you did your soft edge stands out. Great job overall my friend. How are the LTD kits??
Do I see a PC dio soon w/ this bird??
Flaps up, Mike

Looks real nice, great job.

excellent job pix!

keep it up,

Thanks, Butz, claymore & muzzleflash ! Once in a while, I like to try one of these frustrating kits. The Tamiyas & Hasegawas are GREAT, but they almost never seem to give me a chance to improve my filling skills ! (I had to use sheet styrene & CA on this kit)
Butz - the picture I included of the kit on the sprues is their Yak 9, and the LaGG is molded in the same "quality." There are rough edges, a LOT of flash, the parts are thick, the small ones break easily trying to remove them from the MAMMOTH sprues, the decals are thin & fold over on themselves (luckily, they aren't the "instant-stick" kind !), there are no locating tabs/ slots, and the molds are misaligned. Other than that, they're not bad. The scribing is well done, and they have pretty good cockpit detail for a limited-run. They also include spare vac clear parts. (check out the attachment point on the prop/ rear spinner plate !) If you want to exercise your problem-solving skills, they're a real bargain when they go on sale. They have an IAR 80 (Romanian fighter) that's a really pretty bird. I intend to build that one when I get some chrome yellow paint.
Thanks for the compliment on the camo edges. I finally got a regulator, and a fine line nozzle/ needle for my Badger 150. I did the camo freehand, at about 5 psi. (I HATE cutting masks !)
THANKS AGAIN !

Hey Pix,
Your welcome bud..!!!!!!
What brand of paint did you use?? Also what ratio of paint to thinner was used??
Flaps up, Mike

Butz - The Topside Green & Russian Underside Blue are from the MM WW II line. I mixed MM Neutral Gray w/ MM Flat Black for the camo. The ratio (paint/ thinner) is probably about 65 : 35. (I do the "milk consistency" thing) The tires are the new "Color of Eagles" acrylic tire black. They're the Aeromaster formula, made in Spain, and come in a 5/8 oz. squeeze bottle with an eyedropper-like top(GREAT idea for mixing colors !) They even make an RLM 84! I got the Aeromaster "Operation Bodenplatte"(pt 2) decals, & the Bf 109s call for this color. Its a great sheet - full markings & stencils for 2 Bf 109K-4, FW 190A-8, FW 190D-9, & Me 262A-2a, ALL in RLM 81/82 over 76. Can't wait to do these !

nice plane Pixilater
have you tryed Fishing line for the antennas?
ive tryed Photoshop with my Kingtiger below and found a site about it http://www.pegaweb.com/tutorials/beginners-guide-adobe-photoshop/
chears for all your help about the ways of the Photoshop

Thanks, Captain !
I've never tried the fishing line. It sounds like a good idea, because my problem is maintaining a consistent thickness along a useable length. Thanks for the tip !
I'm so glad that you're able to work with the Photoshop now ! Congratulations ! Looks like she's rumbling over the European countryside ! Once you begin to master the basics, you'll be able to do all kinds of things with that wonderful tool (using the CURVEs, SELECTIVE COLOR, the various filters and so much more. I'm so happy for you, that I feel as though I got something new ! Keep at it ! I'll have to start checking the target . . . I mean ARMOR pages to see how you're doing. If there's any help you need, I'm a mouse-click away. HAVE FUN ! ! !

Hey Pix,

Wow, that was fast. Last I saw this thing 'twas still on the bench with no paint,
only a week or two ago. Looks groovy, especially for an LTD. I've got a buncha
those kits, but they're mostly slated for 'burned out-wreck' dioramas.
What colors did you use for the scheme?


Fade to Black...

Thanks, Blackwolf ! Yeah, it LaGGed around for too long, so I went on a "painting bender" & finally finished it. I used MM Russian Topside Green & Underside Blue. The weathered black is a mix of MM Neutral Gray & Flat Black. I also got a fine-line nozzle & needle for the Badger, & I did the camo freehand at 5psi. That's gonna come in handy for the "wave mirror" I'm gonna do on my Bf-110G-4. They probably ARE better for burnt-out wrecks, but building Tamiya & Hasegawa kits doesn't give me much chance to improve my filling skills. (By the way-"groovy" is right. This thing had file marks all over it from trying to smooth things out !)
Thanks again, blackwolf !

Pix,

I use stretched spru for antenna wiring. To get a nice thin, even representation, I heat the spru until it begins to sag loosely, then pull it apart about 3ft, hold one end up, and let the other end hang free until cool..... this has always been successful in creating thin, even wire.

Measure the length you need, then apply small specks of glue at each attachment point and attach wire. Don't try to stretch it tight, just get both ends secure, and let it dry.

Then get a wood kitchen match, strike it, blow it out, and immediately hold it about an inch under the spru wire.... the heat from the match head will tighten the wire dead straight!

See Illustration:


Caution: Don't hold the match head too close the wire or it will distort it.

Frank

Thanks, Frank. I'll have to try that again. I hadn't heard of hanging it loose to cool before - maybe that's where mine seem to fail . . . There aren't any stores to which I can walk (I don't drive) that have fishing stuff, so I can do this method more easily. Thanks again.

Very well done. Very clean build!

Thanks, dj ! While a lot of modellers prefer the worn look, I like 'em on the clean side. I'd rather have people look at the plane, rather than my pitiful attempts at making it look beat up. Besides, being a "guaranteed varnished coffin," there probably weren't many of them that lasted long enough to show wear !