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Desert Stuka

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  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: St. Petersburg, FL
Desert Stuka
Posted by sawdeanz on Saturday, January 27, 2007 3:17 PM

Here is my finished 1/72 Revell Stuka. I thought that the camoflage scheme was really neat and I hadn't seen a model like this one before. I built it out of the box with a few cockpit details that i added myself but which are hard to see. I painted the camo with a paint brush free handed, but the overall tan was a paint can. I actually had the model finished a while ago, but unfortunatly I broke the canopy the first time and had to wait for a replacement. I still need practice on painting the canopy, that is the one thing that I don't like about my model.
      Please tell me what you think.

 

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southern California
Posted by ModelNerd on Saturday, January 27, 2007 7:01 PM
I think your color scheme looks quite accurate. I'd also have to say that it looks fairly good overall, when one considers you applied the camo with a brush. And I'd have to add that it's nice for a change to see a Stuka with this Afrika scheme, instead of the usually-seen 70/71 splinter pattern.

- Mark

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NP, NJ, USA
Posted by TAdan on Saturday, January 27, 2007 7:19 PM

I love that desert scheme! The model looks excellent. Nice work! Cool [8D]

I actually painted my 1/72 Heller Stuka in the same scheme.

Current Project: 1/72 Matchbox Supermarine Stranraer
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Southeast Louisiana
Posted by Wulf on Saturday, January 27, 2007 7:59 PM

Nice work with the materials used. Paint cans can be tricky. The camo looks well done.

Andy 

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Glue and paint smeared bench, in La La Land
Posted by dahut on Saturday, January 27, 2007 9:11 PM

Its hard to get a correct looking German camo without spraying on the dappled camouflage. You did very well with the brush and you get an "A" for effort.

For the future, here's a better way to do it if you dont have a good airbrush/compressor combo. 

Begin by cutting blob-shaped holes from card stock or other heavy paper. To evenly space the card from the surface to be painted, I used to roll Silly Putty into an evenly thin sheet and then use strips cut from that to tack the "holed" mask on to the planes' surface. Once you've done that, you have one more look around to make sure you've taped up everything you DONT want painted - and then shoot bursts of green through the blobbed holes onto the model. Then remove your masks and Voila! Dapple camouflage.

Also, most Stuka's and other German aircraft in N. Africa had a white "Theatre ID Band" behind the canopy, circling the empennage. Here're some pics of what I mean:

http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/KevinWeiche/Stuka.html

Not all Stuka's carried this band, but it seems more did than otherwise. It was applied soon after the plane arrived in theatre and remained there. You see it as a yellow band on Russian friont birds, too. It really does represent a "Desert Stuka" as much as the sand-and-spinach camo and, IMHO, should be part of any such bird.

All in all you did good. Keep up the good work.

Cheers, David
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Vernon, BC, Canada
Posted by razordws on Sunday, January 28, 2007 10:25 AM

I love the Stuka and your build looks great.  I love the camo joband considering the fact that you hand painted it I give you a big Thumbs Up [tup].

 

Dave

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Newman Lake, Washington
Posted by SteveK1953 on Sunday, January 28, 2007 11:04 AM

Very nice,

Just did a Fw 190-8a in that paint scheme!

 SteveK

On the bench; Ju-87 G2 Stuka 1:48 Hasegawa Under the bench; Me 262, Trumpeter Bf 109 G6, Hasegawa F6F Hellcat F4F Wildcat P-47 ThunderBolt D3A1 Val, Hasegawa IL2m3, Accurate Minatures F9F-5P Panther, Monogram UH-1 "Huey Hog", Revell N1L2-J George, Hasegawa Ki43-I Oscar, Hasegawa

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Placerville, CA USA
Posted by Mark Joyce on Sunday, January 28, 2007 10:23 PM

I think you did a great job on the build.  I like dahut's idea for the camo for those without an airbrush, but your way came out nice too.  I can't see the canopy well enough to tell what you don't like about it, but Tamiya tape is a great way to mask off the areas you don't want to get paint on.

Mark

Ignorance is bliss
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: St. Petersburg, FL
Posted by sawdeanz on Monday, January 29, 2007 3:14 PM
Thanks for your thoughts and kind words. Also, Thank you dahut for your suggestions. Perhaps I should have done more research on my plane. According to the instructions for my kit there was no white stripe, but I don't doubt that instructions can sometimes be wrong. Perhaps the particular plane in this kit didn't have that stripe. That is why I should spend more time researching I'm sure. The masking technque does sound pretty good, I imagine that my brush painted scheme is a little hard edged. Also, the instructions are very misleading on the colors, and at one point i had to go back over the sploches i had already done with the correct color. As far as the canopy, I don't think it is visible here, but one of the panes had been badly scratched, and is very evident. Thanks again to everyone.
  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Monday, January 29, 2007 4:25 PM
Have to agree...the schemem is cool.  A nice break from green.  Well done!

Marc  

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Glue and paint smeared bench, in La La Land
Posted by dahut on Monday, January 29, 2007 7:39 PM

"Thanks for your thoughts and kind words. Also, Thank you dahut for your suggestions....The masking technique does sound pretty good, I imagine that my brush painted scheme is a little hard edged." 

Youre welcome. The Silly Putty is there to evenly space the mask above the surface. That way, you get a soft edge to the dappling, not a sharp one. "Feathered" is the correct term for such an edge and the Silly Putty or whatever you use (rolled double sided tape works, too - but I got better spacing consistency with Silly Putty) should stand off about 1/16" from the surface to be painted. It works for any feather-edged paint line, too! Shoot, I didnt have an airbrush for years, masking everything the way I describe.

"Perhaps I should have done more research on my plane. According to the instructions for my kit there was no white stripe, but I don't doubt that instructions can sometimes be wrong. Perhaps the particular plane in this kit didn't have that stripe.

Actually, the instructions are usually correct, for the most part. I dont doubt it in this case, either. Not EVERY Stuka had the band; I found several in researching your post that didnt. But many DID (I'd say most, in fact) and it really brands any model with the theatre it operated in. Other such examples were the yellow surround for the U.S White Star-on-Blue insignia in the same theatre, the various colored bands for the Germans Home Defense planes and the red band carried by most of the Republican I-16's during the SCW. You did good, man, make no mistake. It's just that now you have a reason to build another Stuka!

That is why I should spend more time researching I'm sure. Also, the instructions are very misleading on the colors, and at one point i had to go back over the sploches i had already done with the correct color.

Researching is pretty important if you are the sort who is "driven to get it right." If all you want is a big air force on your shelves, then it won't matter. Build away. But, if you want quality, accuracy and perhaps something unique, then research is indeed crucial. I always start any model build with a session of "Googling" the subject I intend to work on. You should see the file I'm building on my favorite topic, the Russian planes of the VVS!

As far as the canopy, I don't think it is visible here, but one of the panes had been badly scratched, and is very evident. Thanks again to everyone.

Something you can do about the scratch is to dip the canopy in Future floor polish. It will sharpen the clarity of the "glass" and help to hide the scratch in the bargain. A little touch up with some flat finish varnish and you can glue it back on - with white glue, of course. 

Cheers, David
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Monday, January 29, 2007 7:39 PM

I think it looks fantastic. Its a great representation of that aircraft. I have painted many German tanks and vehicles with hand-brushed on camo, and I have and frequently use an airbrush.

I recently did a Tamiya steyr in desert camo. I could have airbrushed it, but brushed it and rubbed out the edges with a q-tip while weathering. It looks better and more authentic than if I airbrushed it. I'll post photos sometime.

 

Good Work

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