SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

weathering

920 views
5 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 1:41 PM
Have a look at this or the salt weathering thing:

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6184

Hope it helps.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 10:38 AM
When i weathered my Tamiya wildcat i used the chalk pastels on it. i applied too much and used a dampened rap to remove the chalk , what i found was that it removed most of the excess but left the panel lines and gun cover plates "washed " with grease, oil , gun carbon and dirt as it would look in real life, the underside of the wings actually came out even better, now for Japanese aircraft you need to remember that they never used primer under the paint they applied so it came off in large sections and faded and chipped badly so you really cant remove too much from a japanese aircraft . Rig
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 8:55 AM
Sounds like you are simply making a sludge wash out of pastel chalk. I usually use grumbacher paste to make my wash with. Instead of a Q-tip try folding a piece of paper-towel into a small tight pad and dampen it slightly then wipe the excess off....
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by nsclcctl on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 8:11 AM
yeah, I read that one as well, simply have not tried it yet.

Question, I have pastels for wathering and panel lines. Shave off pastel, add water, about 10 parts water to 1 pastel, little soap and then bruish on. Is that true? Wipe off excess with damp Qtip? Someone please chime in to pastels. Thanks.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 8:02 AM
Future is just another acrylic coating - paint will adhere to it just fine. Another coat prior to weathering would be good to seal the green paint. The tape method of paint chipping can be tricky, you could rip off a lot more paint than anticipated. Another alternative would be to dampen the model slightly and stick large grain table salt onto it, paint then brush the salt crystals off.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
weathering
Posted by nsclcctl on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 7:53 AM
I am building another Japanese 1:48 offering from Tamiya. I frankly do not know the model name. It seems to have been a converted sea plane to land. Anyway, thats not what is important. I am painting it the green with light grey belly. I just read a technique in the new FSM for paint chips.

It says, put on the base. In my case, I sprayed 2 nice coats of silver. It says to then apply 2 coats of future and let it cure for 2 days, nice and solid. Then paint your top coat, my my case green, wait 1 hr and then using masking tape, just touch the surface and I imagine, the top coat will probably chip off nicely. My questions are:

1) How do you think the top coats will apply over a future finish?
2) When I am done, before I do additional weathering of pamel; lines and so forth, do I apply another coat of future on top? That would be paint, future, paint and then future again. Does that make sense? Anybody try this yet?

I want that jungle weathered look, that silver showing through the splotchy Japanese jungle green.
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.