Although my choice of masking is "labor intensive", I have had excellent results. This works best if its possible to assemble the fuselage and wing or wing sections up to the point of panting as separate items, as it is easier to handle the fuselage by itself. After making sure that the clear parts are thoroughly clean on the inside surfaces, affix canopy in place. Apply blank decal film to canopy using your usual method. (for me its micro set then micro sol) Before applying decal film I cut it into sections so as to apply it as flat as possible. Some canopies have rather complex curves so appplying it in strips or sections is the only way this works. It is also important to make sure you cover only the clear parts. While soaking decal film sections in water for the usual amount of time, brush micro set onto canopy. Apply decal sections. Allow to dry. (usually 20-60 min.) When dry, brush on micro sol. Allow to dry completely as you would a normal decal. (I won't touch mine for at least a day). When completely dry, you will notice that all frames are crisply outlined! (I should mention here that white film works BEST- the definition more apparent). Sometimes, as with normal decal application, reapplying sol may be neccessary, but not likely. You may also need to GENTLY press down decal along some areas with an eraser or Q-tip (like normal) after dry. Using your preffered new cutting blade, gently trim along frame separation lines. Pushing the blade may work better than pulling or drawing. After your finnished cutting, remove decal on framing-THIS USUALLY IS THE HARDEST PART! The decal will want to stick. Before you paint, MAKE SURE any openings, such as underneath the fuselage, are sealed up. Spray the interior color first, then the exterior color as you normally would, painting the fuselage at the same time, finnishing it off with whatever sealer you prefer. When all finnished (WHEW!), and paint has been allowed to dry for at least 24 hrs, (I use enamels) use scotch tape or equivalent to remove decal maskings. Like I was saying, a long process but for me, it works great! Practice it first. If you slip up and scar you canopy, don't panic- it can be repaired nicely. Final note- for any accidental painting of clear parts, use a sharp toothpick (resharpen with sandpaper) dipped in armorall or plexiglass polish to clean up. Armorall also works great shining up the "glass" any old time. Just make sure its all wiped dry when done.