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Painting Canopy

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Painting Canopy
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 18, 2003 4:14 PM
What's the best way to paint the frame on a clear canopy? Mask the clear part and spray? Mask and handpaint? Handpaint with no mask? Other?Cool [8D]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 18, 2003 4:45 PM
i mask and spray. everything else i use has screwed up so that works for me
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 18, 2003 9:32 PM
The best way to handpaint canopy frames is to use decals. Use the CLEAR decal film you can buy at any hobbyshop. Paint the inside color first and after it is dried, paint the exterior color/s. let it sit for about a day, then using a straightedge and a new sharp blade cut the decal into strips about the length you need and apply like you would a normal decal. This method work best with enamel paints, you can use this with acrylics, but there's a chance the paint may chip.
Let me know if this works for you.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Tuesday, February 18, 2003 9:35 PM
My choice is like this...
1. First coat your canopy with future floor wax.
2. Mask your canopy with bare metal foil and burnish it into the corners with someting that wont tear the foil like a q-tip.
3. Trim the foil with a No. 11 knife.
4. Spray your canopy. Some folks like to first shoot the interior color, then shoot the exterior color over that. The idea being that the first coat will show through the clear canopy and match your interior.
5. Remove the foil as soon as possible. Use the end of your hobby knife to lift a corner and carefully remove the foil. Don't leave the foil on for a long time.

That's been the best solution for me, and I think I've tried about all of them.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Steinwedel, Lower Saxony,Germany
Posted by tango35 on Wednesday, February 19, 2003 3:38 PM
I use Maskol and than spray - best result !
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 20, 2003 7:23 PM
Although my choice of masking is "labor intensive", I have had excellent results. This works best if its possible to assemble the fuselage and wing or wing sections up to the point of panting as separate items, as it is easier to handle the fuselage by itself. After making sure that the clear parts are thoroughly clean on the inside surfaces, affix canopy in place. Apply blank decal film to canopy using your usual method. (for me its micro set then micro sol) Before applying decal film I cut it into sections so as to apply it as flat as possible. Some canopies have rather complex curves so appplying it in strips or sections is the only way this works. It is also important to make sure you cover only the clear parts. While soaking decal film sections in water for the usual amount of time, brush micro set onto canopy. Apply decal sections. Allow to dry. (usually 20-60 min.) When dry, brush on micro sol. Allow to dry completely as you would a normal decal. (I won't touch mine for at least a day). When completely dry, you will notice that all frames are crisply outlined! (I should mention here that white film works BEST- the definition more apparent). Sometimes, as with normal decal application, reapplying sol may be neccessary, but not likely. You may also need to GENTLY press down decal along some areas with an eraser or Q-tip (like normal) after dry. Using your preffered new cutting blade, gently trim along frame separation lines. Pushing the blade may work better than pulling or drawing. After your finnished cutting, remove decal on framing-THIS USUALLY IS THE HARDEST PART! The decal will want to stick. Before you paint, MAKE SURE any openings, such as underneath the fuselage, are sealed up. Spray the interior color first, then the exterior color as you normally would, painting the fuselage at the same time, finnishing it off with whatever sealer you prefer. When all finnished (WHEW!), and paint has been allowed to dry for at least 24 hrs, (I use enamels) use scotch tape or equivalent to remove decal maskings. Like I was saying, a long process but for me, it works great! Practice it first. If you slip up and scar you canopy, don't panic- it can be repaired nicely. Final note- for any accidental painting of clear parts, use a sharp toothpick (resharpen with sandpaper) dipped in armorall or plexiglass polish to clean up. Armorall also works great shining up the "glass" any old time. Just make sure its all wiped dry when done. Cool [8D]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, March 2, 2003 3:42 PM
Thanks for the responses. Will pick one, try it and report back.
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Newport News VA
Posted by Buddho on Sunday, March 2, 2003 4:04 PM
I use 1/4" wide drafting masking tape to outline the area being masked, then fill in with wider tape. I then burnish the tape edges to the canopy to create a good seal.
Drating tape has a light sticky backing so is easier to pull off and leaves no residue.

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