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WWI Rotary Engines

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  • Member since
    October 2003
Posted by A. Howard on Saturday, November 8, 2003 3:28 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by B. LeCren

Thanks for the feedback, and I'll look forward to the pictures. Nice tip on using just the paint carrier ...
Bruce



I actually thought of it from a Scale Auto Enthusiast issue of a year or so ago...Juha Airio (if you don't know who he is, he's a MASTER!) uses that technique to tint model car windows. Take any metallic paint, let the paint settle, and use the carrier to tint the 'glass.' Much easier than trying to mix your own batches of tranparent paint, or spending a fortune on bottles of paint you don't need much of!

Adam
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 8, 2003 1:47 PM
Thanks for the feedback, and I'll look forward to the pictures. Nice tip on using just the paint carrier ...
Bruce
  • Member since
    October 2003
Posted by A. Howard on Saturday, November 8, 2003 11:39 AM
Just wanted to thank everyone for their input and to give a little progress report. I've nearly got the engine done. I settled for doing the plane as near OOB as I could. It's my first 1:32 aircraft, and it will be my first attempt at any kind of rigging, so I figured i'd keep it as simple as I could. I did have to grind off the molded interior structure work on the inside of the cockpit and replace it with styrene rod for a better look. I also decided to just fill the void in the upper wing, rather than wait to try and get a replacment. It's not large, and some autobody filler should do the trick.

Re: the engine-here's how i did it: I painted it w/ MM Aluminum NB metalizer, then applied a black wash from "The Detailer." I painted the rocker arms Exhaust Metalizer, and applied drybrushed flat black to the cooling fins. I added Gunmetal Metalizer to the cylinder head portions between the crankcase and the cooling fins with a brush that was nearly wiped dry to tone down the remaining visible aluminum. The trickiest part was giving the crankcase that yellowed, burned metal look. I finally stumbled on a bottle of old Turn Signal Amber in which the metal flakes had settled in the bottom, leaving the slightly yellowish tinted carrier. I diped a brush just in the carrier and applied it to the crankcase, and the results look pretty good. As soon as it dries, I'll dullcoat it and post some pics.

Thanks again for all your help!

Adam Howard
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Orlando FLorida USA
Posted by mgtaylor on Sunday, November 2, 2003 12:43 PM
ANYBODY HAVE A BETTER FREE PHOTO WEB HOST THAN SONY IMAGESTATION A LOT OF PEOPLE DON"T SEEM TO BE ABLE TO VIEW THOSE PHOTOS ?
www.misterkitusa.com
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 1, 2003 8:45 PM
The Le Rhone engine splattered huge quantities of castor oil in all directions including the head of the pilot, with the inevitable results!!!
Is yours a right or left handed engine? Also rember that if you are going to make the prop rotate then the engine must also.
The Camel is one of my altime favourite A/c. Must have been all those Biggles books.
Dai.
  • Member since
    October 2003
Posted by A. Howard on Saturday, November 1, 2003 6:12 PM
mgtaylor,

Thanks for the info, that should help a lot. I tried looking at your images, but they don't show up. For some reason, imagestation pics cause me trouble.

Adam
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Orlando FLorida USA
Posted by mgtaylor on Saturday, November 1, 2003 5:51 PM
The factory fresh engines were a steel/aluminmum/platilum color Crankcase and cylinders (According to the musem examples I 've seen). After runnning for a while they turn the different hues you desicribed more a type of dirty bronzish crank case and blackish clyinder cooling fins. These engines are Air cooled, hence the heating discoloration of the crankcase, combined with an incredable amount of black oil that literatly pours from the valves at the end of the clyinder heads during the starting/lube process not to mention burning while running. This oil can't help but stain and discolor the clynider cooling fins. I've seen some well run engines which look almost entirely black. Close examination will bring out the subltes. If it was me I'd go with a steel crankcase, aluminium/plautinmum metelizer clyinders, followed by a progressively thinned black/dark wash.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid86/pb12e1953c071ae6d5d61a102c7b5a5f3/faacddbd.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid86/pfb56e233e882080c4b3cd10f84b04963/faacdd92.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid86/p8034c33f08fbaf2706b463519dbce0fd/faacdd6e.jpg.orig.jpg
P.S. I uploaded my photos on Sony's imagestation.com. They have told me their site is not too compatable with AOL so you maybe able to view these better if your using explorer
www.misterkitusa.com
  • Member since
    October 2003
Posted by A. Howard on Saturday, November 1, 2003 4:56 PM
Swanny, that was fascinating reading about the Gnome. I love techno-history!

Paul, I'll try your suggestion. Don't know about the resin engine though, maybe on a later project when I can afford to add aditional investment. My union may be striking in a couple of days, so i'll have to stick with what I have on hand. If you have that web address, though, I'll keep it for future reference!

Adam
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 1, 2003 2:14 PM
Hey Adam, If the wing is not fully molded, Angry [:(!] write to Hobby Craft and they will send you a new part. This has worked for me before.

The Camel had a LeRhone rotary engine which was the same engine as the Fokker Dr.1 that was copied by Oberursel. Perhaps Engines and Things, available from Roll Models' website has the engine in resin. They have an amazing selection in a lot of scales.Big Smile [:D]Big Smile [:D]Approve [^]
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Saturday, November 1, 2003 9:17 AM
Here's another cool WW1 rotary engine site
http://www.enginehistory.org/before_1925.htm
and a neat animation
http://www.keveney.com/gnome.html
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Harrisburg, PA
Posted by Lufbery on Friday, October 31, 2003 1:22 PM
Adam,

There's an excellent picture on this thread at the Aerodrome web site:

http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/YaBB.cgi?board=aircraft&action=display&num=1067268236&start=0&showall=true

I hope that helps.

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

  • Member since
    October 2003
Posted by A. Howard on Friday, October 31, 2003 12:59 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by ModelDIO

Which engine does this bird carry?


I'm not really sure, being unfamiliar with rotary engines in general. If anyone's interested, I'm building a Hobbycraft 1/32 Sopwith Camel. I'm not as enamored of this kit now as I was when I purchased it a few years ago. Since I started building it, I've looked closer at all the parts, and the mold engineering is terrible. Most of my time is going to be spent removing ejector pin marks and rebuilding detail just to get a decent looking OOB model. Plus there's a part of the leading edge of the top wing that appears to have not filled the mold completely. THAT will take some fixing!

I don't know much about Hobbycrafts kits, but if this is a typical sample, count me out of any more!

Adam Howard
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 31, 2003 12:37 PM
The rotaries I have seen in museums all had a copper/bronze colour crankcase with steel colour cylinders. Plug wires were bare. Exposed valve push rods and rockers also steel.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 31, 2003 12:02 PM
Which engine does this bird carry?
  • Member since
    October 2003
WWI Rotary Engines
Posted by A. Howard on Friday, October 31, 2003 11:47 AM
Hi all. I'm building a Sopwith Camel, and I have a question about what color(s) to use on the engine. Just paint it a plain metal color, black, etc.? Please gve me suggestions to which is most accurate/looks best.

Adam Howard
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