Looks great. Nice and clean assembly. Do those wheel articulate, or are they cemented in place? 

suomi39

Looks great. Nice and clean assembly. Do those wheel articulate, or are they cemented in place? 

 

Thanks. I thought it was going to be a working suspension but it's not so I canted the wheels a bit to show one of the ways the beast could be steered. It could also steer from only the two front wheels or all four up front. It must have been quite difficult maintaining such a complex steering mechanism.

I don't care if it works or not- it looks fantastic! 

I'd be tempted to show one rolled over just so you can see all that detailing. 

Gamera

I don't care if it works or not- it looks fantastic! 

I'd be tempted to show one rolled over just so you can see all that detailing. 

 

Thanks Gamera. Yea lots of details under but they provide less than half an engine. If it had a complete one the access covers could have been left open . 

plasticjunkie

It must have been quite difficult maintaining such a complex steering mechanism.

From memory of the 222 & 223, the second steering axle was engaged/disengaged by a simple lever throw.  The lever either engaged or disengaged that axle's steering component by way of a T shaped rod link.

Now, yes, you have more than one axle and all the king pins and tie rods to keep sorted.

CapnMac82

 

 

plasticjunkie

It must have been quite difficult maintaining such a complex steering mechanism.

 

From memory of the 222 & 223, the second steering axle was engaged/disengaged by a simple lever throw.  The lever either engaged or disengaged that axle's steering component by way of a T shaped rod link.

Now, yes, you have more than one axle and all the king pins and tie rods to keep sorted.

 

That’s very interesting. I can just imagine trying to align all 8 wheels.

plasticjunkie

I can just imagine trying to align all 8 wheels.

Alignment rack man would likely boggle

Some vehicles (like road cranes) just let the disengaged wheels castor.

The German vehicles, to memory, uses a T link to hold the tie rod mostly in place.  The linkage is just kinked open enough that the steering input from the lead axle does not affect the other sterring axle.  That way, if the axle is linked back in, the amount of change is locked back in.

CapnMac82

 

 

plasticjunkie

I can just imagine trying to align all 8 wheels.

 

 

Alignment rack man would likely boggle

Some vehicles (like road cranes) just let the disengaged wheels castor.

The German vehicles, to memory, uses a T link to hold the tie rod mostly in place.  The linkage is just kinked open enough that the steering input from the lead axle does not affect the other sterring axle.  That way, if the axle is linked back in, the amount of change is locked back in.

 

That's  interesting and good info to know, thanks.

Been very busy these last few days helping my son and his family move so my bench time has been extremely limited but did manage to start on the interior and did some work on the top hull, adding doors and hatches. No engine is included so the engine doors were glued shut. I want to leave as many doors and hatches open to show as much of the interior as possible.

Looking good PJ! 

PJ, your tempting me to add one of these to the stash! 

Thanks guys. Mopar I highly recommend it but do get an engine for it so the access panels can be left open. I plan to do that on the other one I have in the stash.

This is an outstanding build.

CapnMac82

This is an outstanding build.

 

Thanks Cap, stay tuned for more. I almost have the interior completed and will be ready for the Elfenbein color soon.

Looking very very nice!!! 

Looking good there, its a pity there's no engine, would have thought the AM guys would have sorted that.

Thanks Gamera and Bish. e the I

Bish, I think Tetra made the engines, not sure have to research it for the other one I have. The kit has the lower half of the engine done quite well but no top and other components are not included. I’m sure there is an am resin set made if not the top part will need to becratched out. I have the Italeri 6 rad and it has a resin engine.

This is a very slow build due to so many small parts so I've made a small dent in reducing their amount.

Most of the lower hull is done. The upper hull still needs a ton of small parts.

Here's the rear controls 

and the front controls

both ip's are ready for paint

Another look at the detailed suspension.

That's some really nice interior detailing. Nice work!!!  

Thanks Gamera.

Finally was able to get some bench time. The 8 rad is ready for interior paint. 

A few parts still need to be added once the upper and lower hulls are joined.

The wheels even have the air valve stems

You're making some serious progress there PJ! 

Gamera

You're making some serious progress there PJ! 

 

Thanks Gamera. Cleared out the garage pretty much so I will be able to shoot the Elfenbein interior color very soon. I'm leaving as many hatches open so some of the interior can be seen. 
Thinking of making this into a small vignette since I have some DAK figures in the stash.

The interoír colors were applied and she’s ready to b closed up.

Both IPs are completed. I will be adding some equipment inside to busy things up a bit.

I sure do you like what I see here.  Does the top of the body have to be glued to the bottom or can it be left unglued to open up and see all the beautiful interior and engine?

Chad, there are two parts yet to be installed and both halves must be joined first. Unfortunately no radio is supplied for this radio car and only 1/2 the engine is included.

I have another 8 rad and a 6 rad that has resin updates for the engine and interior So I may do something different with them.

Very nice work on the inside PJ, like the wear and tear.

Thanks Bish. The interiors were kept somewhat tidy but the DAK ones were pretty beat up from the pictures I have seen. Trying to keep it in the used but not abused camp for now. Have been playing around with some placement of personal equipment but they are hard to see thru the open hatches. 

You do realize you now need to find a way to replicate the smell of hot paint, heated/reheated oil, and well-worn grease (sometimes known as "old cat[erpillar] smell"), right ?

[:0]

I might have been inclined to get some DAK sand pigments in there, ut, given the very limited visibility, your most excellent restraint is the best option.  The otuside will tell the tal of the inside well enough.

[quote user="CapnMac82]

I might have been inclined to get some DAK sand pigments in there

[/quote]

Oh yea, that is in the works. Stay tuned.