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Avoiding Another Soviet Meltdown?

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  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington, DC
Posted by TomZ2 on Monday, March 15, 2004 2:06 PM
zokissima "There was an article on this in a very recent FSM."
Yes, the one I cited: Mar 04 FSM, pp 54-57, Cookie Sewell's “Working with limited-run kits”. I especially like Bow [bow] Sewell's idea of running the pins all the way through the hull vice bracing shorter pins with plastic. Banged Head [banghead] This is a buttoned-up IS-3 in action in a 1:72 diorama; I'm not going to finish the interior.

Occasional factual, grammatical, or spelling variations are inherent to this thesis and should not be considered as defects, as they enhance the individuality and character of this document.

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posted by zokissima on Monday, March 15, 2004 11:02 AM
I'm with djmodels on this one. Try the pins mounted through the lower hull. There was an article on this in a very recent FSM. I think it was either the March or April issue. This was done on a 1/35 kit to make the tracks sag realistically, but I think it would work even better for smaller scales.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington, DC
Posted by TomZ2 on Monday, March 15, 2004 10:39 AM
T(h)anks to all,

I think Cookie Sewell's Su-152 (Mar 04 FSM, “Working with limited-run kits”, pp 54-57, esp. 56 — Su-152's used the same chassis as IS's after all) shows the best way — pin the tread sag down with piano wire rods running crosswise all the way through the hull, slightly below the tops of the return rollers, then hide the rods with a little paint.

I wish I could say “I've done it and it looks great”, but because the photo I'm using as my primary reference has 6 infantry in greatcoats and felt hats that I have no desire to try to sculpt, I'm still waiting on Military Hobbies to deliver a set of Siberian Riflemen (Revell-Germany #02516) before I get serious about moving this kit out of storage and onto my workbench.

Occasional factual, grammatical, or spelling variations are inherent to this thesis and should not be considered as defects, as they enhance the individuality and character of this document.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Central Wisconsin
Posted by Spamicus on Friday, November 14, 2003 7:25 PM
The only thing I'd add to DJ's comment is to put a shelf under the pin on the inside otherwise the track tension will cock it up and you'll lose your sag. I use a piece of scrap square or rectangler plastic sheet and then cut a triangle and glue it underneath the shelf to brace it. I've only used this method on 1/35 kits, but it works.

Steve

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Friday, November 14, 2003 7:09 PM
The only two ways that I know of were already answered. Have you looked into aftermarket treads? I don't know a thing about that scale, but someone must make some. Good luck.

"It is well that war is so terrible, lest we grow too fond of it."-R.E.Lee

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, November 14, 2003 6:58 PM
I have used a needle and thread to sew down my 1/35th vinyl tracks. I have used this technique on a T-34, and Tiger 1; I guess you would have to anchor to the return rollers and just leave slack in the track. I have also drilled holes into the wheels, and tacked the treads down with a bent staple. I have no idea how effective these methods would be for an IS-3, especially in 1/72 scale, but I hope you can at least get some ideas from them.

Good luck,

edog

p.s. please let us how you tackle this problem, and how the method worked. I am always looking for new methods of doing things.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Friday, November 14, 2003 3:26 PM
Another possibility - which I've never tried, I admit, but seen other do very well - is to keep the tracks in their saggy positions with metal pins. You'll need to drill tiny holes in the sides of the hull to insert the pins (needles are perfect for this, I'm told). Glue the pins on the inside of the hull with superglue. On the outside, they will just hold the tracks down. With paint and weathering, nobody will ever see them.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, November 14, 2003 2:16 PM
you could try hot water
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington, DC
Avoiding Another Soviet Meltdown?
Posted by TomZ2 on Friday, November 14, 2003 2:05 PM
I'm looking at doing a diorama of a Joseph Stalin III (aka IS-3) clawing up a hill with some infantry support. This is based on the two page spread (pp. 22-23) in Soviet Armour Since 1945 by Bryan Perrett, ISBN 0-7137-1735-1. I've purchased a 1:72 IS-3 kit by Rodin and am not happy about the stock treads. They're medium stiff vinyl and Shchukas (Pikes) are as infamous for their sagging treads as they are for their split glacis.

Obviously, I can try using heat to soften them, but I'm concerned about a meltdown.

Anyone who's tried sagging vinyl treads care to share any tips?

Occasional factual, grammatical, or spelling variations are inherent to this thesis and should not be considered as defects, as they enhance the individuality and character of this document.

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