How to make Tarpaulin

Kleenex (unused of course) is my choice applied with a 50 / 50 mix of white glue and water. Paint and weather to finish.

A method I find to work well is first cover the completed model with plastic wrap. Make sure that the spot where you want the tarp to go is only covered by a single layer of the plastic wrap. This is simply to keep the glue/water mixture from getting on the model. Next fold and tie the Kleenex into the approximate size you want and dip it into the water/glue mixture. Let the Kleenex become completely soaked through. You now have a moldable tarp. Press the tarp onto the model(still covered in plastic wrap), shape into the desired form, and let dry overnight. You should end up with a hard tarp that is shaped to your model, and actually looks like it belongs there. Paint the tarp and you should be good to go. Before gluing to the model, I usually add straps and buckles over the ties, but just having the original ties can work too.

Hope this helps, good luck.

erick

Hello!
I haven't tried it myself, but a bud just did an M4A3E8 loaded with everything imaginable, and he got incredible tarp results with good ol' aluminum foil. He had the whole thing already primed, so I didn't know what the material was, but it just draped and wrinkled and looked absolutely convincing. Says he just slapped it on and manipulated it with his fingers till he got the shape he was looking for. I'm gonna give it a try on my next project.

Brian

Someone have some links to see what this looks like? The taurpoline effects that is?

I'ld like to see it, and see what exactly y'all are talking about...

Here's a couple of shots of my latest with a tarp on the back...check it out.
http://groups.msn.com/Armorama/houseofshermanfreak.msnw

Hello,

I just did tarpaulins for the famous Honey : dip kleenex tissus into school white glu, let it dry 24 hours, and then paint them as a base coat with kaki drab, highlight them with kaki and then highlight with flesh!!! et voila !!! don't forget a wash with flat black, a drybrush with flesh added with some white. Results guaranteed!
Any other question ? feel free to write me at : a_bellard2002@yahoo.com
By the way, I am Andre.

Edog, I'll try that technique! It sounds good! My way, so far, anyway, has been to make the tarps and other bags out of Milliput epoxy putty. It works very well too.

For flat/folded sheets (and flags), there's a way to work out very thin sheets of the stuff, by rolling it with a rounded object and using lots of talcum powder (or baby powder).

For bulkier items, create the basic shape with your fingers (and a bit of baby powder) then use a sharp knife, or a toothpick, or else, to 'imprint' the straps (by pressing the edge of the knife, for instance, along where the edges of the straps would be).

Before the stuff dries (Milliput 'normal' takes a few hours to do so) add the tarps/bags onto the model and gently press into place (I use a piece of cloth to do so, in order to avoid any fingerprint, and this also give a bit of 'fabric texture' too). Wrinkles can then be added with other tools. Let dry. Then either let dry and paint/weather or pop the bag of the model (would not work with thin items, cause they'll break!) and paint/weather before re-positioning with wood glue.

Good old Kleenex and white glue is probably the easiest way to go. You just have to be patient enugh for the glue to dry before you paint!!! a:) - Ed

great tip

Use "shoe-box" tissue paper. Very thin, good "scale texture" - not as "rough" as Kleenex or T-p, and no where near as delicate as either. Takes and holds paint better than foil and conforms better too.

I've used Sculpey to good effect, much like Milliput, it can be rolled into thin sheets for tarps and then folded/draped on your model. I've made some nice duffels and seabags for personal gear, too. 

I like the gift box type tissue paper over kleenex, just like nfafan above said.  It also makes pretty good sandbags, filled with real sand!

LemonJello wrote:

I've used Sculpey to good effect, much like Milliput, it can be rolled into thin sheets for tarps and then folded/draped on your model. I've made some nice duffels and seabags for personal gear, too.  I like the gift box type tissue paper over kleenex, just like nfafan above said.  It also makes pretty good sandbags, filled with real sand!

Sculpey?  Where and what is Sculpey? Is this different than the modeling clay I've seen called Sculpey? Does it "work" like Miliput?

Thanks!

I was experimenting the other day and found a great method. If you take water based bathroom sealer (Polycell in the UK), thin it with water until milky, and then spray it thru an AB onto the tissue. It makes one layer of tissue virtually ipervious to tearing and stll retains the tissues drape and fold properties without stiffening it. You can even add paint to the mix when you spray it to get a base colour.

nfafan wrote:

LemonJello wrote: I've used Sculpey to good effect, much like Milliput, it can be rolled into thin sheets for tarps and then folded/draped on your model. I've made some nice duffels and seabags for personal gear, too.  I like the gift box type tissue paper over kleenex, just like nfafan above said.  It also makes pretty good sandbags, filled with real sand! Sculpey?  Where and what is Sculpey? Is this different than the modeling clay I've seen called Sculpey? Does it "work" like Miliput? Thanks!

Yep, that's sthe Sculpey I'm talking about.  I like it because you don't have to mix it together like Milliput, but it works easily into just about any shape/thickness you need.   It takes paint fairly well, though the drying time is a lot longer than I expected. 

About the Sculpey, did you bake it in the oven or just let it sit around? Because to harden it you're supposed to bake it in the oven. It dries rock hard and doesn't shrink. I'm experimenting with it also.

warmaster wrote:

About the Sculpey, did you bake it in the oven or just let it sit around? Because to harden it you're supposed to bake it in the oven. It dries rock hard and doesn't shrink. I'm experimenting with it also.

it comes in a box and I have had mine sitting out for about 4 months, still soft, must heat to cure

Sculpy is heat-cured, though it has a shelf life, and will get stiff and crumbly if left for a long time, especially in a warm place (like in a box in my garage, in South Carolina, in summer).  I have used it a bit, though, for just such things as rolls and packs and tarps and other deck top stowage items.  I use wax paper, alum foil or clear plastic wrap as a barrier between the model and the Sculpy- be warned, it will attack unsealed acrylic paints.  Because it stays pliable until oven-cured, it can be difficult to remove it for baking without deforming it.  But a hair dryer, on low setting, can be used WITH GREAT CARE AND PATIENCE to partially "set" the outside of the clay, enough to stabilize it for removal from the vehicle and placement in the oven.  Keep the warm air moving and shield or avoid small parts (tools, etc) that are more vulnerable to heat.  It ain't the easiest way to go, but no one locally carries Apoxy-Sculpt or Milliput or any of the other 2-part compounds.  But BE CAREFUL with this method.  Heat + plastic = great potential for disaster.