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Road wheel tip

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Road wheel tip
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 4, 2003 8:23 AM
Those nasty rubber rims could drive you batty! Here's what I do: Paint the entire wheel black. Using a clear plastic circle template find the hole that fits best and then airbrush the armor color on the inside of the steel wheel. You can do the back too but life is short.
  • Member since
    April 2014
Posted by r13b20 on Thursday, December 4, 2003 7:25 PM
Gosh, I never thought of that! Great tip, Danny! I'll try it on my M-1.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Philippines
Posted by Dwight Ta-ala on Thursday, December 4, 2003 8:07 PM
My hands are still steady (I think). LOL. I am doing it the hard way. Paint the road wheel with the base color of the vehicle and do the rubber portions with the brush.

Did that on a Flakpanzer (Panzer IV chassis). Took some time but twas OK.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by mark956 on Thursday, December 4, 2003 8:28 PM
You can also use a sharpie pen. The results are good.
mark956
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Thursday, December 4, 2003 8:41 PM
I agree with Mark .... when I first heard of this tip I kind of thought it would look like Censored [censored] , couldn't have been more wrong. It looks great and I can blast through the road wheels now like no tomorrow.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Thursday, December 4, 2003 10:54 PM
I have heard of the Sharpie method, but its so shiney. Wouldn't the ink react with a wash?

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Thursday, December 4, 2003 11:08 PM
Shiney to start ... but then when you hit it with dullcote ...... not so shiney anymore. Reacted just fine with all weathering techniques that I have tried on it.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Dahlonega, Georgia
Posted by lizardqing on Thursday, December 4, 2003 11:19 PM
Sharpies the way I go now to. Use a broad tip one for the wide sections and a fine tip for where the rubber meets the steel. A little touch and good to go.
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Thursday, December 4, 2003 11:36 PM
Thanks, I might have to try it, it sounds pretty easy. Less cleanup too.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Dahlonega, Georgia
Posted by lizardqing on Thursday, December 4, 2003 11:40 PM
My only problem is I can't seem to do it without turning my fingers black , but it does seem to go good with the glue Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 8:43 AM
Mark- Sharpie method sounds slick-but unfortunately the smell of a Sharpie makes me deathly ill. Maybe a super respirator would help.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 9:15 AM
I generally use the circle template method. I like it its very quick and easy. I just stab all the road wheels with a bambo skew then stick them in a block of foam. Then just go down the line...airbrush in one hand and template in the other... I notice on some pictures that the painting....especially camo isn't a sharp demarcation line at the rubber. A good example of this is an article I saw in a offroad mag. It showed a line of Hummers in the desert being preped. The sand overspray on the tires was up to several inches onto the rubber. The circle template does this pretty well if you don't hold it tight to the wheel. just my 2cents....

God Bless
Kenneth
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 10:55 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dannyandre

Those nasty rubber rims could drive you batty! Here's what I do: Paint the entire wheel black. Using a clear plastic circle template find the hole that fits best and then airbrush the armor color on the inside of the steel wheel. You can do the back too but life is short.

if ur gonna use a circle template, don't forget to blank out the surrounding holes w/ masking tape & put the frosted side of the template next 2 the model so u can clean it up easier after ur done...
i use the other common method: spray painting the roadwheels and then adding the rubber by brushpainting the wheel while it's mounted on a paperclip, toothpick or BBQ skewer so i can rotate the wheel.
frostySmile [:)]
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Friday, December 5, 2003 11:26 AM
Wednesday night I tried out the Sharpie method as a test. Last night, I wen't out and bought 6 more Sharpies! It's great. I love it. I did a both parts of a Panther double wheel in about 5 or 6 minutes, and NO brush or air brush to clean up!!

I put it on over enamel paint. Will it work as well over acrylics, or will it pull the base coat up? Should I clear coat over the base coat if using acrylics. Anyone had any experience with this?

Bill
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 4:40 PM
I just bought a new panzer IV and its my first time to paint an armor. By the way its an academy model I open the box but there is no color guide to follow. I already have a German wwII tank color, i think it is dark green can't remember. I need to know if there are other colors i need to buy for the other parts or can i paint the tank in just one color? since i don't have an airspray gun (too expensive) im planning to swich to a spray can. Will that do?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 5:34 PM
great way to do snow cammo on the wheles of 1/72 is to take the whole thing, and paint it either a P Schwazagra (or how ever you spell it) or black, next take your brush and dip it in tamiya flat white I found works best and put a splotch in the middle of the wheele, take a paper towle real fast and wipe the bristles dry, then just spread it messily around the wheel. the results are very good, I'll post some pics of this effect when I finish my new Dio, just gotta figure out how to creat a brick or stone wall in 1/72 scale. =D
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Friday, December 5, 2003 7:22 PM
Jedi_Mike8 you may have a problem. Dark yellow is the recommended base coat, with dark green and red-brown being your camo colors. You may want to brush your camo colors on, it would be hard to use a spraycan on it to get the fine lines or detail.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Friday, December 5, 2003 8:21 PM
Bill - works great over acrylics too, had no problems at all.

Chris - turn the wheels a little slower, Sharpies dry fairly quick.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    December 2009
  • From: West Grove, PA
Posted by wildwilliam on Saturday, December 6, 2003 7:11 AM
Jedi-Mike - a Panzer IV Ausf what?
if it is a D, then the tank could be all grey.
Tamiya suggests XF-63 (German Grey), but some of us think it is too dark and use XF-53 (Neutral Grey)

Bill - I did my Panther road wheels w/ a Sharpie over Tamiya Acrylics last night w/ no trouble.
also washed one w/ artist's water color based wash and it went fine.
(i guess i am the only one who does not use oils for this!)

Chris - I agree w/ Sherm. When i did mine last night, each wheel was mounted on its own 'stick' (i use sprue).
that lets me spin them w/ one hand while i hold the marker w/ the other.
my fingers kept clean. (i still have CA on them from doing the PE!)
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