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Need Help with Individual Track Links

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Need Help with Individual Track Links
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 1:01 PM
What is the best way to build individual track links? I want to put a set of Academy tracks on my Tamiya Stug III but I don't want to mess up the road wheels and sprockets with a bunch of glue. I really need to know what glue works best to keep the track from coming apart as I start to add sag to the track. Also, where is the best place to start putting the track on the vehicle? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Pat
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 3:50 PM
I always put a bunch together and wrap them around the drive sprocket. Use slow curring glue to give time to flex. I then make a long run towards the idler. Next make another set and wrap around the idler and proceed the same steps until you get back at the sprocket. As it dries you can get a realistic sag by pushing down where it sags. You are going to have to glue them to some or all road wheels to help keep it together. When done, they should be solidly connected. I would use testors liquid glue or something similar. Just use the glue sparingly and you should be okay.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by mark956 on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 4:09 PM
Good information Eric, Thanks for sharing it with us.

Good luck on your model Pat.
mark956
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 9:46 PM
I use Tamiya Extra Thin (Green cap) cement. It is fast setting but really works well.
I glue up just enough to go around about 1/2 of the sprocket and another set to do 1/2 the idler. I rubber band them on and let them sit over night. Then I start on the straight runs. I glue enough together to make the top run (using a jig made from a thick sheet of styrene with a piece of Plastrut angle glued onto it), and let them sit for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then glue the front end under the top, end link of the sprocket run and position the total so it comes off the sprocket properly. Push down on the run to match the sag you want. Use spacers, clamps, or glue to the return wheels as necessary to get the proper sag. run it up towards the idler at the other end clamping, bracing, etc. along the way. Use individual link to work that into the idler run you made earlier and let it all sit overnight (or at least a few hours) to harden. Then work the links around the idler and sprocket, down to the ground run and towards each other. For most tanks that have a short, straight run from the sprocket and idler to the ground, I glue up and let harden a straight run of the right length. If you pick up a 1/72 kit with link and length tracks, you'll see the method I come close to. It's worth the 8-9 bucks to learn how to do it, imo.

Have fun.

Bill
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
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