1/35 scale FDCV - Fire Direction Center Vehicle Hellenic Army

Great build and very enjoyable read on this! The 109 series has always been a favorite of mine (second to the 113 FOV) and I have enjoyed watching this subject materialize. Altho the vehicle is a beauty by itself, I'd like to add that I love what it's sittin' on as well!

Ah, the Greek Isles... On my 'bucket list' for sure...

Yeah, great model and an extraordinarily nice step-by-step, too. And Nick, could you please stop bothering our less experienced buddies on the forums here by calling yourself a rookie? I know what you did to the F-16 and the Autogyro. OK, I know you don't usually build armor, but you proved it's not such a big deal for a Modeler with a capital M - and you are one! Have a nice vacation and 'till next time

Pawel

She came out looking pretty good.  Good job on it.

Beautiful work. Great detail explainations, even the base work. Love the overall presentation. Hope to see more of your work.

Also always great to meet a redleg especially from outside the US. Good luck

Rounds Complete!!

Thank you for following this thread and I hope you enjoyed reading this article. I hope I’ll meet all of you, right after the summer holidays on Amorgos island, where the “Big Blue” Aegean dolphins are living and having fun. Click on the first picture for video.

Regards,
Nick

I also tried black paper background (instead of white) & different light conditions and I was surprised on how the model looks like. From now on, black background and low level lighting only...

Finally, the FDCV scale model glued on the base with silicon. Final details were added. The antenna masts, the Browning M-2HB 0.50" 12.7x99mm NATO machinegun, some extra dust weathering effect, etc.

• From my local super market, I got a small wicker broom. If you look closely, you’ll find some very interesting stuff for scale modeling use and dioramas building.

Water based white glue for wood, which becomes transparent when it dries, is just the right for the job. So, I opened a 500 grams canister bought for 2€ only, pick a small quantity, add just few drops of water with a syringe into a small metal container to make the right mixture and finally I applied on the desired areas to be filled with grass & plants, using a wet brush. Because the mixture is enriched with water based glue, it is easy to correct possible mistakes.

As for he grass & plants, I used three different ways:

• From my local hobby shop, I got different colours of static grass, empty them into a plastic box and make a mixture.

• Found into my garden perimeter, I collect few natural stuff, cut and placed into plastic box for such use.

Before the plaster cast got harden, I formed the field area into the desired shape to be suitable for the FDCV scale model. I used my airbrush to paint it. After the polished wooden frame was covered with masking tape, different acrylic paint layers were applied on the plaster surface. First, mat black colour covered the area and then a dark and light earth colours, spraying from different directions and angles. Later, the field was drybrushed on selected spots using sand tones.

CHAPTER VII - Display base & grass

I found nice idea to place it on a display base, simulating a field area covered with grass. From my local store, I bought a 20x30cm polished wooden picture frame.



I add some grams of plaster powder and few drops of water with a syringe into a soft rubber cup to make the right mixture. Materials like plaster, start as a dry powder that is mixed with water to form a paste which liberates heat and then hardens. Unlike mortar and cement, plaster remains quite soft after drying and this characteristic make plaster suitable for the job. Keep in mind that adding salt into wet plaster mixture, reduce the plaster's hardening time and adding vinegar into wet plaster mixture, extend the plaster's hardening time. When the first layer of thinned plaster applied on the picture frame, a glass were pushed against the plaster to form a flat basic strong cast.











I left it few hours to get harden in order to be sure that the cast wouldn't break when I would try to cut it into desired shape. Meanwhile, I took the soft rubber cup which I used to make the plaster mixture, squized it to break the last hardened plaster left inside, so it would be easier for me to clean it afterwards and prepare it for any future mix. That's the reason this soft rubber cup were used for.

As soon as the previous very diluted Life Color acrylic paint layer dried, a second (very diluted also) and later a third FS34094 "Bronze Green" (aka Life Color UA303) acrylic layer sprayed over, so the final result will become dark enough, that can be considered as into a realistic tonality & lighting color range, while the black enamel preshading lines, are still visible under the applied color layers. Minor corrections were made in 1-2 spots with a fine brush. The result was sprayed with Humbrol enamel gloss varnish coat, to prepare the surface for water transfered decals applying and washing. Once satisfied with the result, the model was sprayed with Humbrol enamel matt coat, to seal the paint, the water transfered decals and the washing results.

Keep in mind that this FDCV scale model, represents a vehicle as it was during the early ‘90ies period, when no national markings were paint on the vehicle’s side. Also, keep in mind, that during this specific period, the bronze plaque in honor of St. Barbara, which in the manners, customs and traditions of the Hellenic Army protects the Artillery, was not installed yet!

The WIP steps may be slow, but I prefer steady progress rather than hastily. After the Humbrol enamel matt coat dried, I had to add selectively some weather, rust & dust effects.

The first base very diluted acrylic color was sprayed with no problem as a light layer and let dry overnight. As seen on the pictures, the black enamel preshading lines, are visible under the first applied color setting a base for the weathering process.

Yeah, it's amazing what you can see through a night vision device. Once I built a simple IR viewer and it allowed to tell if a person changed his/her hair color - in IR all coloured hair looks white (strong IR reflection). Quite surprising. There was also this blooper by Polish army, when they sent troops to Iraq in uniforms that were nicely camouflaged in visible light, but glowed in IR - kinda stupid...

Anyhow, keep 'em comin' Nick and have a nice day

Pawel

I guess I stand (or at least sit) corrected.  The Army only teaches about its chemical aspects.  Guess this statement is really true:

"Infrared Signature (IR) management is one of the least understood, yet most important attributes of the CARC camouflage system."

From CARC paint manufacturer's brochure (page 5) found in HERE it is clear that "MilSpray CARC touchup, creates no IR image".

Also, in page 2 you can read: "...Key to survivability in combat is avoidance of enemy detection systems and IR homing weapons. CARC coated vehicles and equipment have signature-reduction properties that diminish the effectiveness of existing and emerging enemy detection and targeting systems. While infrared reflectivity is one element of signature-reduction, other characteristics and their particulars are considered classified information. Infrared Signature (IR) management is one of the least understood, yet most important attributes of the CARC camouflage system. Each of the colors in the camouflage system contains a special pigment package that camouflages vehicles and equipment when they are in their intended theater of operation. As an example, the 383 green color in the camouflage pattern, has an IR signature equal, or less than, that of chlorophyll. When viewed in IR, the vehicle will blend in with the wooded environment and will not create an IR signature that could be used by enemy weapons systems having IR homing technology. IR homing weapons systems can be found in MANPADs and many shoulder fired missiles....".

I believe these, might answer your question

...CARC - Chemical Agent Resistant Coating, specially formulated to reduce the vehicle's IR image reflection.

No, CARC is actully designed to be easily decontaminated and resist the effects of a chemical attack, hence the name Chemical Agent Resistant Coating.  It has nothing to do with the IR signature.

Here is the way of US M-992 FAASVs are painted, as presented into US Army's TB 43-0209 (pages 252 & 253) and TM 9-2350-267-10 Technical Manuals. As noted before, the Hellenic Army's FDCVs are not 3-tones camouflaged - they are painted with one colour only (FS34079 “Leaf Green”) known as CARC - Chemical Agent Resistant Coating, specially formulated to reduce the vehicle's IR image reflection.

From CARC paint manufacturer's brochure (page 5) found in HERE it is clear that "…MilSpray CARC touchup, creates no IR image…".

Also, in page 2 you can read: "...Key to survivability in combat is avoidance of enemy detection systems and IR homing weapons. CARC coated vehicles and equipment have signature-reduction properties that diminish the effectiveness of existing and emerging enemy detection and targeting systems. While infrared reflectivity is one element of signature-reduction, other characteristics and their particulars are considered classified information. Infrared Signature (IR) management is one of the least understood, yet most important attributes of the CARC camouflage system. Each of the colors in the camouflage system contains a special pigment package that camouflages vehicles and equipment when they are in their intended theater of operation. As an example, the 383 green color in the camouflage pattern, has an IR signature equal, or less than, that of chlorophyll. When viewed in IR, the vehicle will blend in with the wooded environment and will not create an IR signature that could be used by enemy weapons systems having IR homing technology. IR homing weapons systems can be found in MANPADs and many shoulder fired missiles…".

Hello everybody!

I'm a big fan of Nick - he really knows a lot about scratchbuilding, I've seen two of his builds in the aircraft forums before and they were really cool. How 'bout the F-16 Nick - are you going to finish it?

Then Nick is also a kind of macho and doesn't usually bother to answer comments on his threads.

Anyhow, good luck with your vehicle and have a nice day

Pawel

Looks like an absolute bear of a kit to clean up.......

And, "Scratch on, Garth!"

Love the stange, different and obtuse!!

Also love to scratch!

Rounds Complete!!

Yes, I've already seen this, but why start sratchbuild a model, when it is already available as a plastic or resin model?

Two reasons: 1. The US M992A2 version is not available in any form (plastic or resin).  2. Some of us enjoy building AFVs, like to build models that are not available, and have the skills to do so .

• Besides being a detailed look at the kit.....the writing style is great. Love the entertaining photos.

Thanks for comments. Considering that's my second 1/35 tracked scale model attempt (the first was almost 20 years before) and I am not used with special tips & techniques for AFV models, I am trying to improvise to get decent results. So far, I'm happy I didn't place the tracks in the reverse direction. After all, I prefer aircraft & helicopters scale models (feel free to click the following thumbnails for my other "aviation related" projects) and I cannot claim myself as AFV modeler at all.

• Nemix had a Spanis M992 for ammunition handling with a full interior. The FDC vehicle would be vastly different inside.

Yes, I am aware about Nemix resin kit, but as I wrote in previous paragraphs, the FDCV adopted by Hellenic Army is way different on internal and external details from the Nemix model, which is actually a FAASV. I've seen Nemix's model and IMHO it is not as detailed as White Tower's model - but that's just my POV.

• You can scratch anything.....see my "brother" Gino's thread /forums/t/128726.aspx as he scratch builds an M992.

Yes, I've already seen this, but why start sratchbuild a model, when it is already available as a plastic or resin model?

Looking good.  I like it.  As Mike says, I am building the US M992A2 Ammo Carrier version from scratch right now.  You can check it out here.  Always good to see another arty support vehicle build.

With the FDCV scale model hull closed and the track chains cleaned by the polyester excess, I tried water sanding to ensure that connecting lines would disappear. The track chains were also slightly sanded on selected points, to get all the track teeth on the exact same level. When I was satisfied, I spray a primer light layer to prepare for painting and to highlight any deficiencies that had escaped my attention.







As shown in the photo above, I use two different primer products for preparation of scale models before painting, depending on each case.

• The first is the Hycote acrylic primer. Available in 2-3 different colours, shades of grey (for general use paint) and black (primer before painting with metallic paints Alclad II) and textures in matte or glossy. The price cost aprox 7 euros in local Greek market and spray canister contains 400 ml. IMHO, the Hycote primer’s main advantage, is that the chemical composition is such that it leaves the feeling that can be applied on model without covering details. It is very fine, it dries within minutes, but it’s rare to find.
• The second is the Humbrol acrylic primer. If I am not mistaken, it is available in 2-3 different colours, shades of grey (for general use paint) and black (primer before painting with metallic paints Alclad II). The price is aprox 6 euros in local Greek market and spray and the canister contains 150 ml. While using, I noticed that the Humbrol primer is sprayed under higher pressure propellant, and this effect was observed in different spray canisters. When dry, leaves a sense of rough surface on the model, perhaps a bit more than I prefer, but I guess it’s perfect when applying primer on AFVs to be given a sense of cast metal. Humbrol primer is a good choice for general purpose primer, but I would prefer Hycote for fine results, without any spray paint grains.

Finally, regarding the price / quantity matter, the Hycote primer costs 7 euros in local Greek market for a 400 ml canister (1.75 euro per 100 ml), while the Humbrol product costs 6 euros in local Greek market for a 150 ml canister (4 euro per 100 ml).

For only 12 euros, I bought a new SkyTronic minitool product which operates from 0V to 12V voltage and contains 60 different parts including drills from 0.4mm to 1.5mm diameter, cutting discs, abrasive brushes, etc. According to the manual, it spins up to 16 000 rpm and is compatible with various calibers shaft head. The only modification I did, was to remove the factory cable and install spiral cable (which I find more practical) that I connected with the 0-12V voltage dimmer adapter on my workbench.









I cut the track wheels from the polyester tree and sand each one of them, by using the high speed spinning minitool. As soon as all the track wheels were trimmed as required, they were placed on exact position.