sdkfz 250-3 in 1/6th scale

Here is a bit more, then it's time to go to sleep.

What makes this machine a 250-3 is it's frame antenna.

the kit:

white metal and aluminum, this kit  was $100. Half the price of the sd250 kit it self, but (IMHO) worth the money. The frame antenna on a SD250 is sexy as hell.. 

interior color is panzer gray. This model is an old 253 converted to "open top" 250. By the way Rommel's ride the Greif was also a 253 conversion..

The 253 came before the 250.

The vast majority of these machines where converted into 250's but a few remained in service until wars end.. I think the 253 is even cooler than the 250.. I may do another of these Armor Hobbies kits with a 253 mod. Late war, still in service-type action..

sleepy time..

CG

Looks good so far. That isn't really a bad price for a kit that big. Half the time ship models cost more than that.

Looks like you're giving it a lot of attention. 1/6 is a large scale to work in, can only imagine how much paint you would need to finish it! The 253 idea also sounds like a neat one, keep us posted on your progress.

wbill, lots of cans of Tamiya paint that is for sure. I fact, I have painted this thing twice. I built and painted it, now over the last 4-5 months I have been doing a complete 'make over". Adding more detail parts both inside and out.

@ jetmod  It is a very good value in a 1/6th scale model (IMHO). I have seen a "out of the box" kit with just a nice paint job with airbrushed cammo and weathering and I have to say it looked really good. There are many many aftermarket parts for this kit that take it to the next level. I have just about all of them. About $500 worth of parts for a $230 kit..  :) I have also scratch built quite a few parts that where not available.

Here is the next update. Interior. This is perhaps the biggest weakness of the kit. Next to no interior detail.

this pictures shows all that is included in the way of interior detail (nothing) the transmission was the first resin aftermarket part I purchased.

seats

first aid box and rear door lock

the real first aid boxes where made of wood. I painted it then ruffed up the paint to give a wood (like) grain

By the way all the above parts are from a UK company called Armorpax.

rear two man seat. scratch built from sheet aluminum

flooring

diamond plate mounting holes and upper storage bin

RUST one of my favorite things to do

fuel filler cap (scratch) well it's a shirt button >>>

pull handles made from wielding rod

some close to FIN interior pictures

late war fire extinguisher kit from mike standard

The interior is not yet finished. I have a few odd/ends to add including the radio gear and a bit more weathering.

More later

CG

CG, you have really come a long way with it. Is the flooring you put down AM or did it come with the kit?

Thanks jetmod.

The flooring is from a company called plastruct..EZ to work will, nice stuff..

here is a bit more

exterior detail

rear L-plate mounts (scratch) and decals

aftermarket exhaust box and turn signal

notek light and rear view mirror

tool box

scratch latch

I have a 1/6th pad lock for this as well ...

front tarp gutter ( resin aftermarket)..

jack and mount

rear trap gutter (scratch) PLEASE NOTE, the hinges are wrong and will be replaced with smaller models (on order)

the rivets around the visor are also a mod 

back door handle, made from welding rod

much more to show you.

CG

Looks like your coming along nicely. Can't wait to see more.

here is more

front and rear detail

this is only one of two pictures I have that this detail shows up in. Notice the series of bolts around the lower armored plate

While I am at it, also fixing a mistake on the model. The lack of the armored plating under the rear door

made from sheet aluminum, also in the picture is a "half assembled " aftermarket rear convoy light

miniature brass bolts, lots of them I did not count..

I also will add tow hitch to finish off that area. I have ordered one in white metal ($30.00)

up front

rivet detail around the visors

these are resin

side visor

front hood detail. All the hinges on the model are wrong and will be replaced this better looking ones ( ordered and I should have them soon)..

real-deal picture

my scratch version

I also added that front fender gap you see

just cut a groove using an razor saw

top hood latch

until next time

CG

I have a recommendation on the paint scheme. German "Afrika Korps".

http://www.themotorpool.net/German-Sd-Kfz-250-3-Half-Track-Grief-DAK-p/tam26536.htm

NO, sorry jetmod it will be late war waffen SS.. Dunkelgelb three color cammo ( perhaps two)

here is more:

front detail, scratch bottom skid plate and round crank start cover

those front tow loops are wrong..

a few overall pictures thus far

RUST, lots of rust..

I will "tone this down" with a grey/black wash later..

proper front tow hooks replace the loops

O by the way the rust is made using sophisticated finishes two part system. The first step is a gun-metal gray paint with iron fillings, then an antiquing solution is applied over top. So the rust is REAL rust...

I received two boxes of parts for the project today. Tools and there mounts and radio and intercom resin parts and 10 of the small armored hinges I need:

but, as you can see they will not be a simple "glue on " mod.. Much more to show you. But we are getting closer to base coat paint...

CG

Wow what an amazin project!  If my math is right it's about 2.5 feet long, and about a foot wide, right?  So where is this beastie getting displayed?  One last question, what do you estimate it weighs?

Thanks, and great job!  Looking forward to more.

Chris

WOW!

The bottom really looks amazing.

It looks really good so far. If it's even half as good as the Tiger, this will be a real treat.

Looks great! That's pretty cheap for a model of that scale, but how much do you think the total cost will be? All those extra parts really have to add up, right? Looks really good, though.

You are correct, the price of the aftermarket parts is way more than the price of the sdkfz250 itself. I did a quick count and the total for the aftermarket parts is around $400

More later tonight

CG

here we go, running gear

another kit, wheel caps and a set of front wheel rim detail rings.

 also added small hole in rim

weathering

tracks

I will add a little bit of rust to the center caps of the wheels later..

CG

here is what is next..

I have you guy's caught up on past work. The updates will slow down because it's real-time action from this point forward.

The following is 2.5 days work

working on those back door hinges

new ones

body work

added tow cable rear mount..

added scratch-made tie downs

aftermarket tail light

drivers side tail light

inching closer to  base coat dunkelgelb .............

CG

Looking good!  Can't wait to see some paint on her!

Chris

you and I both Killjoy.

The last aftermarket part for the exterior machine ( a white metal rear tow hook) is in the mail and I should have it in my hands in a day or two. There are still a number of tool mounts I need to install on the fenders.  Then there is the interior radio gear. I have some of the stuff but not all. There are four radios that go in a  sd250/3 plus the intercom and junction boxes . There is also a radio rack for three of the radios I need to make from welding rod. There is also the replacement of the eight hinges on the front engine compartment. I have the correct small armored hinges, but the hinges on the model are "part" of the engine doors. That means lots of  file work and sanding and contour putty...

radio preview

engine hinges preview

more ASAP

CG

Lookin good so far. I bet this thing is going to look amazing when it is done.

I am doing the best I can. So my sdkfz 250 will be all it can be.

Worked on the front engine hinge replacement today.

This was pretty straight forward, sand off the old bad hinges and a little body work

all but ready to add the new correct hinges..

BUT, the side engine hatches are another story. These were not molded but a separate piece of plastic

and to make things worse, they where recessed about 1mm into the top of the 250

that 1mm gap ( and the holes) will need to be filled will milliput two part epoxy putty. Major body and fender work is needed. This is a good sized set-back. I am felling a bit pissed. Much more work then I envisioned.

With that said, the models stock hinges were not even close to the real thing. They needed to be replaced. It is just going to take me longer than I thought it would to get the job done....In the end it should be worth the extra time (IMHO)..

CrapGame

Still a bit depressed about the work needed on the hinges.. But pressing forward.

Every back-side picture of a sdkfz250 I have seen has a tow hook.

here is Mike Standards $30 white metal and brass kit

assembled

primered

with the pictured home made mounting template, I hope to get this thing installed late Friday night

more ASAP

GC

here is the stuff I worked on over the weekend

added the rear tow hook

did the " first step " body work for the new hinges

lots more file and sandpaper work needed, but the milliput needs to set up first. So, I worked on the tools (are there mounts) for the 250.

scratch built a jack handle

then some painting and weathering

jack and jack handle

wooded jack block

shovel

wire cutters and hand axe

tow cable

back working those front hinges again tonight ( and drinking beer ).. More soon

CG

Wow! This is going to be one impressive looking kit when finished! All your work on the hinges is paying off, they are really coming along nicely. I love how you do the rust, it is very realistic looking.

Thanks hedorah59

The rust looks real because it is real. It's a two part process from a company called sophisticated finishes. The first step is a gun metal colored paint which contains iron power,then you apply the antiquing solution over the top. I then added some black soot color with Tamiya weathering master set.

More ASAP

CG

Interesting project, and you are well on your way, particularily with some very impressive painting results.

I imagine that working in this large scale provides the ideal platform for some extreme super-detailing.

Thanks zokiss

The way I look at it. A large scale model like this one is just a collection of smaller models. By that I mean, the shovel and it's mount is a model. The radio is a model, and on and on.. If you look it like that your bound to have a good amount of detail in the overall model. The problem is time. I started this thing over one year ago ...

My latest action.

I have the engine hatches looking pretty good

almost ready to add the new hinges. It's a fighting vehicle that has been in service for over two years and has been repainted in the field. So, the finish is ( should be ) a bit imperfect. I ran into this with my 1/6th scale tiger as well ( which I will get back to soon).  IMHO, you don't want the body work to be to perfect. It's not a 57' Chevy show car..

I did ALL the 250's tool mounts, and there are more then a few

large axe

wire cutters

small axe and pick axe and padlock

the "busy" side = shovel -jack-jack handle-wooden jack block-pry bar-crack starter and tow cable mounts

I also did scratch equipment hooks

back side tow cable mount

working on the hinges them-self's at this point in time. They are resin unit's and every one needs file/sanding. I have 5 of the 8 I need finished..

More over the weekend( perhaps even real paint)..........

CrapGame

I continue to be impressed with this project!  Your attention to detail is admirable!

Chris