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Matilda tank - non-Caunter camo - hard or soft?

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  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Springfield, VA
Posted by vaw1975 on Saturday, January 1, 2011 9:40 PM

Cool! I was under the impression that it's only for soft-edge. I guess it depends how thin they're rolled? Do you mask with tape in between then?

V

(I'm a guy, despite the name)

On my bench: Hasegawa Hurricane Mk I

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Saturday, January 1, 2011 4:14 PM

Vivian: you should go to Toys R Us and get an egg of Silly Putty.  I did a hard edge, complex camo scheme on a British desert Sherman here:

 

You roll out snakes of the silly putty and mark out your camo. Then you airbrush it and quickly remove the silly putty b/c it'll sink and creep all over the place.  Watch out for small fixtures.


Good luck

 

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, January 1, 2011 3:50 PM

Probably be easier to handbrush the pattern. If you're not doing a Caunter scheme you dont have to worry about the straight lines.

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Springfield, VA
Posted by vaw1975 on Saturday, January 1, 2011 3:31 PM

Thanks, I thought so too. But how on earth can one mask sharp-edged curvy camo on a tank full of details? The Caunter might be easier in the end?

(I'm a guy, despite the name)

On my bench: Hasegawa Hurricane Mk I

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, January 1, 2011 3:29 PM

The few pics I have find of camo on UK WWII armor tend to show a hard edge pattern in most if not all cases.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Springfield, VA
Matilda tank - non-Caunter camo - hard or soft?
Posted by vaw1975 on Saturday, January 1, 2011 2:39 PM

I think, for my first model the Caunter scheme on the Matilda is a bit too ambitious. So, the other option is the two-tone Flat Earth scheme with regular random camo. Does anyone know if the camo edges need to be soft or hard? I was thinking I'd use the putty sausage/tape technique to mask, or just AB freehand and get a nice soft feathered edge but if the camouflage had hard edges, I prefer to be accurate. Does anybody know? The instructions are not clear and I can't find any good pics online.

Vivian

(I'm a guy, despite the name)

On my bench: Hasegawa Hurricane Mk I

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