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Mig's dry transfers rock!

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Mig's dry transfers rock!
Posted by J-Hulk on Monday, January 19, 2004 12:14 AM
Howdy, folks!Big Smile [:D]

I'm just finishing up Skif's 1/35 BMP-3, and was a bit worried about the kit decals, when I found Mig Production's "Russian Armor in Chechnya" dry transfer markings set. I've never tried dry transfers before, but I was even more frightened of Skif's decals, so I thought I'd give 'em a try.

Man, they rock! Just burnish 'em down (I used a nicely rounded end of a paint brush), and there ya have it. Couldn't be easier. They look fantastic, just as if they were painted on, which is what I did with my last project (the E-100). This was much quicker and easier, and the results are actually better (had a bit o' bleed under the Eduard stencils on the E-100 project). They stick like bulldogs, too. I experimented with one, and hard a hard time scraping it off. With an overcoat, I reckon it'd be immovable.

Now, how they'd work on rough surfaces (or even zimmerit) I don't know, since the BMP offered a nice, flat, smooth surface. Curves and corners may be tough, too, but that's probably no more difficult than trying to paint 'em or even use decals in those situations.
For single-color unit numbers and simple markings, I'm sticking with dry transfers from now on! (No pun intended-seriously!) Quicker, easier, and better results than either waterslide decals or stencils.

Has anybody else tried these?
What other dry transfer manufacturers are there?
~Brian
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 19, 2004 1:47 AM
J-Hulk; I started using dry transfers years ago and have never looked back. I have a whole pile of Verlinden's, which for armor models, pretty much covers what I need. Forget coating your models with Future and fighting your way back to a flat finish, agonizing over hideous decal films that just won't go way. Just slap them on and overcoat, you're done! OK, maybe not that easy, you need to be much more careful in your alignment, because there isn't any fiddling with them once they're down, but they look SO MUCH BETTER than decals it isn't even funny. I've put them on over Zimmerit without any problems, in fact, they respond the same way to setting solutions as decals. Dry transfers rule.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Monday, January 19, 2004 4:06 AM
I can't believe I've gone this long without 'em!
They're so easy to use, it's almost ridiculous.
For an inherently lazy modeler like me, they're a gift from heaven! (OK, maybe a bit of an exaggeration!)
And I've never liked the idea of glossing up my armor. Like you said, it's always a struggle to get it flat again.

I'll have to check out the Verlinden catalogue and see what's available! Good to hear about the rough terrain ability and that it responds to setting solutions.

Even though this is only my first experience with dry transfers, it really makes me wonder why waterslide decals are still around.

Are there any drawbacks to transfers? The only thing that I can think of is the necessity of burnishing might somehow limit applications, but I can't really think of how...
~Brian
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 19, 2004 6:31 AM
I have never tried them, Brian.

If you give them a good recommendation, I will definately try some on an upcoming build.

Did you order them from an online company? If so, link....
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Monday, January 19, 2004 7:24 AM
Eric, I just found 'em at Super Kid's Land (gotta love that name!), but Mig's link is:

www.migproductions.com

I haven't checked out the Verlinden selection yet.
I gotta have more of these things!
~Brian
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 19, 2004 11:02 AM
are there kits from tamiya or academy that uses dry transfer?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 19, 2004 11:14 AM
I don't know what the problem is with VLS corporation's website. Their search engine couldn't find any dry transfers listed, despite the fact I have a whole pile of Verlinden dry-transfers and listings in an old catalog. Have they discontinued them?
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Monday, January 19, 2004 11:37 AM
I certainly hope not. Mig's stuff is great, but he doesn't offer a wide selection yet.
Oh well, I have enough markings from that one sheet to do my BMP-1, BMP-2, and at least one of my T-55s! (just have to borrow from the T-62 markings!)
~Brian
  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by M1abramsRules on Monday, January 19, 2004 11:43 AM
I have some archer transfers for my academy M10. this will be the first time that i use DT.

they have no instructions on how to apply. wanna give me a quick lesson???
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Monday, January 19, 2004 11:55 AM
Sure!
I've only used 'em once in my life, but they came out perfect, so here ya go:

Cut out the marking you want to apply. Put some Scotch tape over it, and place it on the model, using the tape to hold it securely in place. Burnish the marking onto the surface of the model using a blunt, round tool of some sort. I used the handle of an old paint brush. I would imagine it's important that it's smooth, not pointed or with any sharp angles to it. With Mig's transfers, you can easily see when the marking has been successfully burnished on to the surface.
Slowly pull the tape off, and there ya go!

That's how I did it, anyway. Some of the experts may be able to offer some more nifty transfer tricks!Smile [:)]
~Brian
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Exit 7a NJ Turnpike
Posted by RAF120 on Monday, January 19, 2004 5:47 PM
Brian I'm with you brother, I love dry tranfers. I've gotten some from Verlinden and from Archer and I liked working with Archer's better they seemed to come off the backing a little easier.

Chris if you go to www.archertransfers.com I'm pretty sure they have instructions on how to apply them.
Trevor Where am I going and why am I in this handbasket?
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Monday, January 19, 2004 7:05 PM
I used Archer dry transfers on my Marder Brian ans I was pleased with them too. That was my first go at them so I can't compare with others but they went on easy and seemed to stick well before I clear coated over them. I'll be using more of them myself.

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 19, 2004 8:11 PM
I've been slowly switching over to dry transfers. Have been looking at the kinds of markings on some soon-to-be-built kits and ordering Archer dry transfers that will do the job. Neat thing is that one sheet will give you enough to do several models or more depending on what you're building. They are an extra cost, but from what you may save in the long run, what with frustration, the extra time involved with using decals, I think they are well worth it!

My two cents!
Glenn
  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by M1abramsRules on Monday, January 19, 2004 10:47 PM
I have no trouble with decals whatsoever, so I see no need tomove completely over to DT
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Monday, January 19, 2004 11:54 PM
Letraset and chartpak both make press type. And they make it in different typestyles so you can match alot of stuff. Check art supply or engineering supply outlets for these.

They come in different colors and in point sizes (letter heights and sizes) and burnish down fine. Since they are older you may find older sheets mixed in with newer ones so they may not work as well. They usually run about $4-6 a sheet and you have more than enough to do what you want.

This is something that the graphics industry used to use pretty regularly and any old school grpahics guy will know them well. Most good shops or departments used to have their own set up to make their own dry transfers. 3M used to make the material and the solutions, all we would have to do is expose the art we wanted, and wipe down the sheet, we'd then have our own custom stuff in a multitude of colors. 20 years ago this was the bomb if you were in a graphics department and built models. We'd buy extra material and make all our own decals after hours. Most of this has given way to computers. (another reason computers suck) But Chartpak and Letraset are still making the presstype sheets. Seems its picking up interest with the scrapbookers.

Mike
Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 5:36 AM
Thanks for that heads-up, Mike.

Chris, I don't usually (!) have trouble with decals either, but the DTs are just so much easier to use, a lot less work, and it's much easier to get a fantastic finish with them. I'm sure they have their limitations, but if I have a choice between a waterslide or a DT, I'm going DT.

Such passion, after having only used them once...one bad experience and I'm sure I'll sing a different tune!

~Brian
  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by M1abramsRules on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 10:13 AM
I guess there would be no sheen to them when looked at from an angle where the light hits it, and no chance of silvering.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 10:23 AM
Nope, none at all. No clear film between markings or around the edges. Essentially, it's just like painting 'em on!
~Brian
  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by M1abramsRules on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 10:25 AM
more like "scratching them on" Big Smile [:D]Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 10:31 AM
Well, yeah, but...you know what I mean! Big Smile [:D]
Has anyone seen any in multiple colors? I wonder how complicated or multicolored markings would work.
~Brian
  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by M1abramsRules on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 10:38 AM
what do you mean, multiple colors??
like this:
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 11:09 AM
Yes...is that a DT? The only ones I've seen so far are simple single color markings, like numbers and such. Of course, I haven't really looked very hard yet.
~Brian
  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by M1abramsRules on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 11:10 AM
that's an archer DT!!
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 11:18 AM
Looks nice! Have you tried 'em yet? I wonder how easy larger markings are to burnish. The numbers I did were a breeze, but something covering a wider area like that roundel might be a bit more difficult.
~Brian
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 11:18 AM
My Panzer IV diorama, "Uninvitited Guests" hanging in the dios forum has multi-color Panzer Reg. 31 markings, the "Devil's Head". A little obscured by dust overspray though. The crosses and numbers are DTs too.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 11:19 AM
Well, there ya have it!
I may never slide with water again...
~Brian
  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by M1abramsRules on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 11:34 AM
I haven't tried them quite yet, but I will be in a couple of days.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 11:37 AM
Please let me know how they go, Chris.
Post a pic if ya can!
~Brian
  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by M1abramsRules on Tuesday, January 20, 2004 12:07 PM
oh yeah, I'll get pics on. don't worry.
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