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photo etching

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, February 9, 2011 8:27 PM

I use a hard block of polycarbonate as a cutting surface, cut the part away from the fret using a sharp #11 blade, and then clean up the (very small if any) remaining nub using the conical grinding tool in my Mighty Mite Dremel tool on the 5000rpm setting. I'll use locking tweezers to hold the part or, if it's big enough, just hold it with my fingers. Quick and easy although I will say that there is a slight (you realize this the first time you try it) risk that the part can go flying, so some thought and awareness of the laws of physics and how to approach the grinder bit is needed beforehand. Wink

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, February 9, 2011 3:36 PM

I have found a good pair of PE cutters to be a must. I haven't got the new Xuron ones that Hawkeyes mentions yet, but do have the older set. I find that i can remove anything any access just fine. If there is any clean up needed, the sanding stick or a [piece of fine sand paper usually does the job.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Wednesday, February 9, 2011 8:06 AM

First you need to use a good quality PE Scissors to remove the parts. In the March issue of FSM they reviewed the new Xuron 9180ET Pro PE Scissor which I designed for them.

 

Secondly this article I wrote should be useful as it shows the methods I use to trim PE.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Wednesday, February 9, 2011 7:42 AM

If you know anyone in the medical profession, try to get a set of non-serrated hemostat clamps (these are used in operations but are thrown out afterward).   Barring this, get a set of needle nose pliers (non-serrated).

After you separate the PE part from the fret, clamp the part in your hemostat or pliers, with the edge requiring clean up exposed about 1mm.  Then gently go over the part needed to be removed with a file, along the length of the part.  Very easy to do and the part doesn't get bent.

 

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, February 9, 2011 7:38 AM

Once I get the part off the fret, I trim it 1st with straight nail clipper.  These are from tweezer Man on 1 of the mot used tools on my bench

For the small bit left I use a fine sanding stick.  Go mostly in the direction  of the edge at angle.  Unless it is a big beefy part I won't go across it perpendicular.

Marc  

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Wednesday, February 9, 2011 7:35 AM

 

I very carefully use a sanding stick

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: The Great North Woods, Maine
photo etching
Posted by Chazzer on Wednesday, February 9, 2011 7:09 AM

ConfusedCan anyone tell me the best way to clean up photo etched parts? When I tried my modeling file (fine I think) the parts wanted to bend. I would appreciate the help. Thanks in advance. Oh by the way, the model is a 1/35 2cm flak 38 Confused

ChazzerBlack Eye

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