WIP Pzkpfw III Ausf. H

I'm liking it,I really like III's,keep the pics coming.

Keep us updated DerOberst on your progress!

Your figure turned out well but are you going to dull it? It seams a bit "shiny".

anthony2779

I'm liking it,I really like III's,keep the pics coming.

Headed in the right direction.

For some added realism,

make sure to add some washes.

Thanks, all.

Figure: yes, he is shiny.  Oils paints still wet, and I am waiting for them to dry.  He will get a dullcoat or two later on in the process.

Is this the K command version: Nope.  The H, straight out of the box.

Disastermaster: Yes, this will get some washes. (I know you made that comment solely to use your special washing machine smiley...)  Plus the dot filter treatment.  Plus some graphite pencil.  Then some pigments for dust, etc. 

I am glad you chimed in.  The wires in place of the lost headlamp was inspired by your DAK Pzkpfw IV that you did a few years ago.  Of course, my version won't be quite as weathered as yours!

DerOberst

Thanks, all.

Figure: yes, he is shiny.  Oils paints still dry.  He will get a dullcoat or two later on in the process.

Is this the K command version: Nope.  The H, straight out of the box.

Disastermaster: Yes, this will get some washes. (I know you made that comment solely to use your special washing machine smiley...)  Plus the dot filter treatment.  Plus some graphite pencil.  Then some pigments for dust, etc. 

I am glad you chimed in.  The wires in place of the lost headlamp was inspired by your DAK Pzkpfw IV that you did a few years ago.  Of course, my version won't be quite as weathered as yours!

Don't know where I thought it said K. I'm tired. Sorry.

Here are some photos of the base.  This is painted with Tamiya acrylics, some Testors enamel, and a bit of artists oils.   There are some pigments added, but after the tank is done I will apply more pigments to blend the dirt and dust on the tank with the dust on the ground.

Comments and suggestions welcome!

Okay Oberst.......

    Now you are gettin' 3D serious here......

              Some REAL potential showing.

                    Lookin' very seriously good here.

I like the simple, but effective base. I assume some Russians will be scurrying for their lives?

Greetings.  I have made some limited progress since my last post:

• Decals
• dullcote finish to protect the base
• artist oils filter with red, indigo, sienna, green, and yellow
• light gray highlights with a blend of black, white, and a little indigo

As you can see, the dullcote toned down the figure.  Next steps are another wash or two, then some MiG pigments.

Yes!  The oil paints are still wet, thus the shiny finish.  In a few days I will hit it with dull cote again.

And my clumsy handling managed to break off a road wheel!

Enjoy, and, as always, comments and suggestions welcome. 

Looking good. Keep em coming.

A real shining example here Der' Hamfist !

                                I like that figure too.

I am enjoying your build. I love the way you keep knocking bits off.

That's exatly how I build...cheers....Kenny

Hmm.

I love the fact that I post 30 hours of painstaking, detailed work and no one notices.... but if I drop the model on the ground for 1 short second, it is the talk of the town!

Yes, clumsy me.  I build models like a guy having a seizure in a high wind.

Here is my normal progression:

1. Glue the part in place with thin cement.
2. Break the part off while forcefully 'test fitting' a different part that wont quite fit
3. Glue the part in place with thick cement (that'll fix it!)
4. Break the part off while removing masking tape that stuck to itself
5. Glue the part on with thick CA
6. Break the part off when the model catches on my sleeve and does a flying Wallenda off the bench
7. Spend 20 minutes on my hands and knees searching for the missing part that sailed 12 feet in a phsyics defying flight that ends behind the shelves in the opposite corner of the room.
8. Scrape off the dried glue and the dog hair, glue it back on, this time with more CA and some accelerator
9. Break the part off while holding it to apply a decal that won't quite sit down right
10. Scrape off all the glue, paint, CA, and whatnot. Drill out the attachment point on the tank and the part, insert a styrene rod, glue with thin cement to form an unbreakable bond.
11. Select different part to break off, return to step #1 and repeat.

Feel free to use this technique in your own modeling process.  I find that it really helps me get to know certain parts extremely well.

DerOberst

Hmm.

I love the fact that I post 30 hours of painstaking, detailed work and no one notices.... but if I drop the model on the ground for 1 short second, it is the talk of the town!

Yes, clumsy me.  I build models like a guy having a seizure in a high wind.

Here is my normal progression:

1. Glue the part in place with thin cement.
2. Break the part off while forcefully 'test fitting' a different part that wont quite fit
3. Glue the part in place with thick cement (that'll fix it!)
4. Break the part off while removing masking tape that stuck to itself
5. Glue the part on with thick CA
6. Break the part off when the model catches on my sleeve and does a flying Wallenda off the bench
7. Spend 20 minutes on my hands and knees searching for the missing part that sailed 12 feet in a phsyics defying flight that ends behind the shelves in the opposite corner of the room.
8. Scrape off the dried glue and the dog hair, glue it back on, this time with more CA and some accelerator
9. Break the part off while holding it to apply a decal that won't quite sit down right
10. Scrape off all the glue, paint, CA, and whatnot. Drill out the attachment point on the tank and the part, insert a styrene rod, glue with thin cement to form an unbreakable bond.
11. Select different part to break off, return to step #1 and repeat.

Feel free to use this technique in your own modeling process.  I find that it really helps me get to know certain parts extremely well.

Well, it seems I cursed myself with the little jest about breaking things.

I am having trouble with the tracks, and need some advice.

I have never used the Dragon tracks before, and my plan was to paint them off the vehicle, and add them in 2-3 sections. Here is what I did:

• cleaned the ejector pin marks on all 200+ track links
• assembled tracks together in 5-link sections using Tamiya thin cement. I let these 5-link sections set
• I created a few 20-link sections, and while still flexible, wrapped them around the drive wheels to give them the correct shape
• I glued the 20-link curved section to a bunch of 5 link sections to create a J shape.  I let these set.
• Each side would get and upper and lower J, creating a full track
• I then painted the assembled J shaped tracks. Pin wash, silver dry brush, etc.
• Then I started to place them on the tank.

Here is where the problem comes in: the J sections are too brittle, and are breaking apart as I try to conform them to the road wheels.  They appear to be breaking at the 5 link section joints.

Now that they are painted the chances that more cement will hold them is slim, I think.

Do I re-assemble the J shapes?  Or do I try to attach them on the tank in smaller pieces? (this does not seem like it will produce a smooth join between sections)  Do I scrape and re-glue?  CA??

Advice, please! 

Well, I managed to get the tracks in place.  They will need some touching up in places where glue or handling has exposed the plastic.

Here are some photos of the tank in it's current state.  The photos wash out some of the details, and look a lot greener than the actual vehicle.

Next steps are:

• Tools and other gear
• Extra tracks on exterior
• Pigments and dust

Comments and sugestions welcome.

Nice save with the tracks. Here's a little tutorial I intend to try on my next build that has indy tracks.

http://armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=1737 

She's coming along very nicely.

Looking good.  Wish I could paint figures half as well!

It's coming along just fine - this'll be a real treat when it's finished. I really like the base, what did you use for the contour? FWIW, maybe the commander's eyes could use some help - he seems to look a little "pop-eyed".

retdfeuerwehr

 he seems to look a little "pop-eyed".

What?  His forearms are too big??

No. The pupils of his eyes are too large - on a 1/35 scale figure, one shouldn't be able to see his pupils from the side....makes it look like his eyes are ready to "pop" out of his head -- hence the term "pop-eyed".

So the Popeye thing was a joke.  You know, Popeye the sailor man with the big forearms?

The base is supposed to depict Stalingrad, so I am imaging this guy as the first 16th Panzer commander to crest the hill and see the Volga below him.  The pop eye effect is because he sees millions of  Russians wating to encirlce 6th Armee.   Or something.

Ya, I will take another pass at the eyes when I get the tank nearer to final.  Thanks for noticing.

Here are some updates pics.   All the tools and such have been added. 

I noticed a ejector pin mark on the right rear fender, and decided a tow chain was just the thing to cover it up.

Crisis!!:  The base is from MIG and is called PzIII and STUGIII Stalingrad base.  And after final assembly...

THE TRACKS DON'T FIT!!!!! 

The track marks on the base are 1/2 narrower than the tracks on the actual tank.  Not sure what to do about that.

Anyway, it needs another coat of Dullcote, and then we should be done. 

Comments and suggestions welcome.