Dragon Marder III Ausf M Befehlsjager build advice? (04.03.11)

Hey Ben

Looking forward to this one.  You can pretty much get the whole thing together to paint.  It is easy to blank off any areas that you don't want exterior paint getting on fighting compartment.  When you get that far, the gun with it's half round armor bit should be able to go in separately.  What scheme you planning on doing?

DOH  OK I just read what scheme you're doing  As far as showing the interior, the engine cover and front hatch can be posed open.  I know mine is all brass but i am pretty sure in Dragon sheet has the options with the parts either way.

Hey Wingnut!

Wow-she sure is one superb Marder! That's the Standard Ausf M, isn't it?

I'm really loving that muzzle cover - I'm already hatching ideas!

Now that you've read my post what do you think about the question about building the whole thing then painting it 'in-situ'. Tools and everything?

I've not done it that way before - what do you recommend? That goes for everyone btw!

Also, did you use the Magic Tracks?

The interior will be fine and I'll assemble the radio rack off the build and position it after painting and assembly - that is what the build guide has you do anyway. I suppose scratch fitted wires would be needed for the radio setup.

I'm looking forward to this build. It's definately going to be a challenge but it's one I'm up to.

ATVB

Ben

Yeah that's that regular M .  I know there are guys that will paint the tools already on the model but I have never done t that way.  Whenever that question is posed it usually gets a split response.   I paint all the tools and add on stuff like that off the model and build them as little sub-assemblities with the clamps etc.  I used Friuls on this one but have done a 38(t) chassis with Magic Tracks before and its real easy.

Hey Ben!

Should be a rather fun build- definitely my favorite of the Marder series.

I would advise that you leave the wheels and tools off, but position the running gear and build the tracks prior to attaching the fenders. Then remove the wheels, paint and weather, and re-attach the running gear and tracks. I'd recommend leaving the tools off until the end, because one can't do convincing woodgrain very neatly if they are glued on.

Also a bit of advice- dont feel like you have to use all the PE. If there's a part you don't feel needs replacing with PE, or a PE part that you don't feel like you can neatly glue on, then it's not worth trying to use said pieces.

Thanks guys,

The little PE clamps look interesting and i'll definately have a good go with them.

I was thinking what you both said - wheels off until the end and sub assemblies with the tools made up separately too and again - left until the end.

Work starts tomorrow,

ATVB

Ben

Ben, trust me it is alot easier to paint the tools and accessories separately.  I did this during my first three builds then I read an article in FSM magazine recently where a guy said it was quicker and easier to paint while they are on the vehicles.  I had to give it a try during my Marder II build... boy, it was much harder than I expected.  I promised myself not to do this again. 

Good luck!

deafpanzer

Ben, trust me it is alot easier to paint the tools and accessories separately.  I did this during my first three builds then I read an article in FSM magazine recently where a guy said it was quicker and easier to paint while they are on the vehicles.  I had to give it a try during my Marder II build... boy, it was much harder than I expected.  I promised myself not to do this again. 

Good luck!

Little margin for error on painting attached equipment. Occasionally I see incomplete painting of tools. Certainly a matter of preference, for I have seen many do it very well.

Look forward to this Marder in the our GB.

Hinsky,

The DOG ate the StuG?!?!? That's got to hurt .

Sorry to hear about your StuG-canine malfunction Ben! Looks like you've found the perfect way to console yourself though.

On the question of assembling this one, I would definitely recommend the "modular" approach to the fighting compartment in terms of assembling and then painting those separately before you attach them permanently. It's a tight/crowded space to work in and you'll be happier with the details if you take that route IMHO. Ditto for the wheels/tools, etc. The DML PE tool clamps can be a little finicky, I would recommend using Griffon tool clamps instead if you want to go that route, they are much easier to work with and you can buy whole sheets of clamps that will last you for a good long while.

Thanks guys,

It's an interesting looking build and if anyone has a wiring diagram for the radio that they could send me a link to I'd be very greatful.

I'm definately taking your route bill - it will be so much easier and better looking.

The clamps look head twisting but I like a challenge so I'll give them a go. There aren't many so if I can't do them I'll get some Griffon ones. I only need 6 or so!

The StuG was really looking nice but I've ordered another one (at double the price I paid for the first one - the first was from the bargain bin) so upon completion of the Marder it's StuG time again. I've got all my tools and the Friuls (which are still unopened) so StuG the second will be even better! I'm not happy with the dog but we'll make up! We'll have to, she's my future gundog in training!

I was going to do some prep work this afternoon but I've just had some horrific dental work done and my head feels terrible so I'll be starting work on the Marder in earnest this coming weekend.

ATVB

Ben

Hey chaps,

Righto - the time has nearly come!

I'll be starting the Marder tomorrowand am trying to get all of the information/research together that I can - as I do prior to starting to all of my builds.

I'm going to install the FULL interior, engine, transmission, the lot. The bulk of it will remain unpainted, just primed, as it won't be visible but the front transmission bit that visible under the very front panel will be painted and detailed somewhat so I can pose the front panel exposing this detail.

My first concern is the Magic Tracks. I was going to leave the wheels and drives/idlers off until the basecoat is on. I can then paint the wheels etc, fit them and plop on the Magic Tracks. This then raises the question - how do I paint the Magic Tracks? Can I leave all the wheels removable and just hold them in place using Blu-Tack so I can remove the full Magic Track assembly, paint the tracks and the wheels and put everything back on.

Can anyone recommend a better way of doing this? I'm pretty stumped! HELP!

Also, I'm still struggling with this radio. It's unlike any radio diagram I've seen doing the rounds. It is made up out of three sections set side-by-side. I can't find any diagrams to help me with the wiring - I particularly need to know where to wite the star antennae onto the radio?

The radio, according to the box, is an 'Fu8es30' radio.

Any help, tips ar general advice will be appreciated big time!

Thanks guys,

ATVB

Ben