sharpie roadwheel coloring

I always paint before putting the sharpie on.

QUOTE: Originally posted by wipw Oh, by the way, I found that it works better if there is at least a light coat of flat paint on the road wheel tire, just to give a little tooth for the ink to grab hold of.

Yes, when I did the T-34, I had already sprayed the wheels flat "Russian tank green." I used the thicker, chisel-tip Sharpies--more ink flow, and I could lay down more ink before they clogged. I had to stop at regular intervals and clear out the tip by drawing lines on a sheet of paper (which, of course, was the one I was writing the notes for the article on). I think some of the paint residue does clog the pores of the tip.....maybe that and a combination of the ink in the tip drying out the longer you use it.

I was lucky on that project because there was a substantial ridge between the "rubber" part of the T-34 road wheel and the part that is supposed to be green. I didn't have much trouble with the marker slipping; a few quick touch-ups afterwards fixed the "ooops" spots.

Even with bracing my hands on the table top, I found I could do only two or three wheels before I had to take a break.

QUOTE: Originally posted by wipw Oh, by the way, I found that it works better if there is at least a light coat of flat paint on the road wheel tire, just to give a little tooth for the ink to grab hold of.

Yes, when I did the T-34, I had already sprayed the wheels flat "Russian tank green." I used the thicker, chisel-tip Sharpies--more ink flow, and I could lay down more ink before they clogged. I had to stop at regular intervals and clear out the tip by drawing lines on a sheet of paper (which, of course, was the one I was writing the notes for the article on). I think some of the paint residue does clog the pores of the tip.....maybe that and a combination of the ink in the tip drying out the longer you use it.

I was lucky on that project because there was a substantial ridge between the "rubber" part of the T-34 road wheel and the part that is supposed to be green. I didn't have much trouble with the marker slipping; a few quick touch-ups afterwards fixed the "ooops" spots.

Even with bracing my hands on the table top, I found I could do only two or three wheels before I had to take a break.

Just tried it on my little Stuart a couple days ago! It worked great! Thanks guys!

Oh, by the way, I found that it works better if there is at least a light coat of flat paint on the road wheel tire, just to give a little tooth for the ink to grab hold of.

Bill

Monster,
the tip on my would dry out now & then too.
i would just scribble a bit on scrap paper until it started to flow again and then continue.
i have no idea what causes it to stop flowing.
perhaps some reaction w/ paint clogging the felt tip?

ed.

I've had the same experience as monster. I start on a wheel and can barely get any ink down before it starts skipping. I've gone so far as to buy a package of 6 markers and have them sitting point down in a glass on my workbench. It helps a little. I also bought one of the big chisel type Sharpies. It works much better, but of course, is a little tough on smaller areas.

My experience with a circle template hasn't been too wonderful. I found that by the time I get all the adjecent holes covered up then have the holes not fit the wheels, I'd just have soon done it a different way.

As far as using the radical approach of actually painting the wheels, my most successful method to date is to use a Microbrush and acrylic paint. I put some paint in one cup a plastic artists pallet dish and some alcohol in another, then dip the brush in the paint and alcohol as needed to get the paint to flow well. The Microbrush is pretty easy to control.

Good luck, all.

I use the template method too. Not having the exact fit hasnt been much of a problem. The over spray that gets on the rubber part is hardly noticable, especially after the weathering is done.
I did try the Sharpie way too. I was using a brand new marker, and it just seemed to dry out on the tip as I was (painting) with it. Ive tried it numerous times, with different markers and it just seems to keep drying out the tip. I know, its a simple task, drawing with a pen, but what am I doing wrong? I have the same problem with my fine tip pen when drawing in panel lines on a/c.

QUOTE: Originally posted by wildwilliam i guess no method is foolproof! (i am speaking only of myself!) ed.

I agree that no method is foolproof! I was fortunate in that the template's sizes fit the roadwheels of this Panther D kit!

Glenn
(nobody's fool!)

I have done bothe methods - circle template & airbrush w/ a Pzkpfw IV-D
and the Sharpie on my Panther.
my template problem was no template 'exactly' fit the rims.
(maybe i needed a metric template!)
w/ the sharpie, i had a few slips, but w/ so may roadwheels, and all the
overlap on the Panther, i should have no problem concealing them.

i guess no method is foolproof!
(i am speaking only of myself!)

ed.

Can't wait to try this one!! Sounds great.

Yesterday I tried using a Sharpie on this Panther D I'm currently building. 12 roadwheels per side mind you! I kept making little mistakes! Not much of an edge between the tire and the wheel. Guess my 50 year nerves aren't what they used to be because before long I'd have a stray mark where I did not want it. Finally gave up!

Today I went to Office Max and bought a green plastic 'circle template' for $3.19. The best $3.19 I ever spent!! I was able to airbrush all those roadwheels in under two hours time! For me that template saved so much time and frustration it's almost unbelievable!Anyway I recommend you think about buying one if you don't already own one. I'll still use Sharpie pens for certain uses, but this 'circle template' for me is a winner!!

Glenn

QUOTE: Originally posted by MartianGundamModeler How does it work on plastic tires? I've gotten sick of painting those to after my Avenger and M-20 {six wheels} and I still have two half tracks and a Stuart to do!

Well the Stuart wouldn't be a problem, but give the others a try and see what happens. I haven't tried it on anything as large as a tire. If it doesn't cover well, you can just paint over it and you haven't lost anything.

Wow! thanks guys.

How does it work on plastic tires? I've gotten sick of painting those to after my Avenger and M-20 {six wheels} and I still have two half tracks and a Stuart to do!

I just got a book How to Model World War II German Armor (great book) writen by Carl McLaughlin (published by FSM) and that is the way he suggests using. I haven't used it yet but it seems like it would work great.

Thats the only way I go anymore.Just roll the wheel along the table as I color it so it's pretty quick too. I have not had a problem with washes, thats pretty much how I get the line between the rubber and steel.

yep, I use that method!!! I really like it. like others have said, nice coating, no lines, good control.

I did the T-34 article. I needed a technique for painting all those ruddy road wheels quickly (remember it was a "build a tank in a weekend" project) when I came across the tip in a Mike Ashey article. It worked like a charm: You have plenty of control, so you get the color exactly where you want it to go, and the marker ink is very thin so it doesn't build up and obscure details. The only slight downside is that when you look at it in certain light from a certain angle, there is a purplish-bluish cast to the color. But dullcoating takes out a lot of that.

I do it almost all the time. I read about it in Mike Ashey's book. Even if it has some streaks left when you're done, the dullcoat seems to make the streaks go away. Fast, easy and looks great. Can't beat it.

I used a fine point Pentel Pen on my Panther D's roadwheels. It was easy and fast. The only problem is that it came our a little bit shiny BUT when I applied the wash, the shine was gone.

It's a good trick. I agree with Sherm, a dull cote could take away the shine.

its the method i use and i must say im very pleased with the results. ive only used the method twice, on my stuart honey and academy M-18 and im very pleased with the results. After i use a flat overcoat you can not even tell the difference between paint or the sharpie.
the only thing i would say is to go over it again with the sharpie before you use the dullcoat cause i did mine about a week earlier and the sharpie seems to wear a little bit and smear off with the slightest touch after a few days, but once you use the dullcoat theres no problem and it looks just like paint with a real nice crisp line around the rim.

I wished I used it on those Panther roadwheels.

When I first heard of this method ... I was extremely sceptical. One day I gave it a try and I was very surprised by the results. Crisp, clean, excellent coverage (no lines) and it dried extremely quick. Took dullcote without any blemishes.
The only thing I haven't tried on it was a wash but I can assume after taking a dullcote, the wash would be just fine.

In fact, Shermanfreak told me that idea in the family build...and its a good one!

Regards, Dan

I haven't tried it yet but some here swear by it.