Tamiya Walker Bulldog 1/35 -First Build

Check out the archives or the Q & A section of the forums, this question has been answered in detail many times.

Welcome to the forums, looking forward to seeing your work!

Jason

Thanks, I got it to work.

Nice clean build kllp101

Many (& Manny) wish their first builds turned out as well.

Noticed a sheen (Not Charlie) on the paint. A coat of Flat Clear spray will turn the finish flat & seal the decals in for weathering. (Dull coat)

Weathering pigments are basically a powder that will adhere to flat paint when brushed on. Try not to handle the model at this stage as it will mar the pigments & leave unsightly finger prints.

Who am I to say? Possibly the tank is cleaned up for service around a base State side?

I do believe the Bulldog seen action in Korea. If so get reference photographs from that conflict (preferably color) and buy a pigment suitable to the landscape, that is match the color of pigment to the soil found there.

Thanks. I wanted to put on a clear coat but I thought the model would be too shiny. What kind of coat do you recommend? Flat clear or clear? Also, I used tamiya "pigments" weathering set for the weathering and primary used mud and sand color. Also have some questions. I wanted to start doing washes on probably my next build and wanted to know if I needed a clear and then wash or can I wash on bare paint surface? Also, do I need to clear over the decals or before i use the decals? What clear do you recommend? Thanks. 

Congrats for your 1st build. It looks good, the only thing I would point out is the decal silvering. Make sure the surface is nice and shiny before you put the decals on. I like to use another gloss coat after that and then the flat finish. Is that the motorized version? 

Keep up the good work

Mike

{{EDIT}}- just saw your last post, check out the tips and techniques section for ideas and then start experimenting. Everyone has their own way of doing it , just make sure your wash isn't the same kind of paint(enamel, acrylic) as what you are covering.

A product to help with the decals is Micro-scale decal solvents. One is a pre-decal liquid that chases air away from the surface. (air pockets is the 'silvering' effect) The other is a decal solvent that softens the decal to snug down better also helping eliminate 'silvering'. Read the instructions and as always best to practice with extra decals first.

Another tip is to trim the carrier film close to the decal as possible. This is the clear area that extends past the color part of the decal. Leave a 'tab' to handle the decal with tweezers, otherwise it will be impossible to apply.

First- Brush the solvent on the kit where the decal will go. Then put some on the decal once it is in place. You will see wrinkles-DON'T WORRY- the wrinkles are supposed to be there. Next, step away from the kit for a few hours to let everything dry.

Second- You need to use a clear gloss under the decal. Anything else underneath will create air pockets which lead to the silvering.

Third- I would leave the Bulldog alone. It looks great.I only noticed the decals because I looked for them. The Panzer II is a fun little kit, good luck with it. Now go to the tip section and start studying.

Mike

nice start .

Ron

Congrats on completing your first armor build and to the forums! Lots of friendly folks here and great advice/tips available even though it is called the "dark side" of model building.

Thanks for the tips, Mike. I guess I have a lot to learn from serious and professional modelers like you. I think i'm also going to buy some MIG pigments and washes. 

kllp101

Thanks for the tips, Mike. I guess I have a lot to learn from serious and professional modelers like you. I think i'm also going to buy some MIG pigments and washes. 

Sorry thats the other Mike, I'm neither serious or professional . 

Great start.

  We all have to start somewhere.

 Welcome to the beginning of a long and endless

learning curve.


 Stay close to this forum and read

everything you can.

 There are a LOT of kind, talented and generous people
 here that can show you how to accomplish many things.

If there is no clear coat over the Bulldog decals then try Micro Decal solvent. It will soften the decals and may snug them down, removing the slight silvering for you. If it has been over coated then move on to the next project.

Decals work best over gloss finished. Flat finishes have a rough texture that traps the tiny air pockets under the decal.

I just brush Future Acrylic floor polish on the area the decal is to be placed. Allow it to dry 24 hours before the decals. After satisfied with the decal then over coat with a Clear flat like dull coat.

Some spray the entire model with Future to prep the model for intense weathering. Save the advanced techniques for after you have a few models completed.

The MIG pigments produce excellent results. Your Panzer will accelerate your skills, just keep it fun! Long as you are happy with your progression then each will evolve into a better representation of a scale miniature.

DO try a new technique or two each build. DO push your skills each one as well. DO NOT try for show stopping perfection, if you are satisfied then it was a good build.

Good luck & post pictures of the Panzer IV!

Jason

Very clean and crisp build.  Nicely done.

Welcome to the asylum!!

See what I mean.......

It came out great for a first build or any build for that matter. You really did a good job on the wheels and bogeys, they can really be a pain but you did a good job on them. Like has been mentioned before squirt some dull coat on it and you will get a much better result. Again good work!

I would never have guessed from the pictures that this is your first model. Nice job!                                 My Dad was a tanker in Korea in the early 60's and drove an M-41, so the person that said these say service in Korea was correct.

Thanks for the tips jason. And I also thank everyone for their kind words. I might actually use the Micro Decal solvent once I get my hands on one since I didn't gloss at all. I didn't even know clear coating existed when I was building the model. I have actually done some intense weathering on a pre-built 1/24 rc tank from another company. It came pre-painted so all I did was weather it. Here's a pic of my version of a Snow Sherman.  

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To tel you the truth, all of this weathering is pure experimentation. I already had another 1/24 rc sherman of the same company and color so I decided to make a snow sherman just for fun. All I did was got my tamiya class C or B weathering sets and dry brushed the pigments.powder all over the sherman and made rusty rain marks using.... acyrillic thiner! I actually used tamiya earth brown thinner or gel, (what do you call that clear stuff on the suface of acryllic paint) and the white pigments actually clinged onto the clear acryllic thinner  and made the rain marks. Quite an unusual weathering system. I may have totally srewed up, but I had a blast weathering. 

Question for you guys: Does this snow sherman scheme really exist? Because I really doubt that there were even snow sherman...

Snow Shermans did indeed exist!

Just check references to make sure it did not serve in the PTO (Pacific Theater of Operations) As the there would be no snow there.

A few tips to improve the 1/24 scale RC:

The spare track on the front has ejector pin marks. These should be filled & sanded. Due to the tricky location thinned putty may be easier to brush in, it will shrink so expect a few applications. Testor's liquid cement thins Tamiya putty well.

The spare wheel should be placed on top of the stowage board between the fenders, its location would not last long on a bucking tank moving across rough ground.

The tool handles could stand for a bit more wood color. Think of where shovels & axes wear. Over painted tools are common yet if used the hand grip areas wear to bare wood.

Here is a white washed Sherman I built last spring. 'Thin Ice' is the name of the vignette.

A nice and neat job.You definately have mastered the basics.You are ready to take the next steps for sure.

Excellent build for a first timer. Most first builds end up in the garbage........I have a friend that would just take it and smash it against the wall if he messed it up.

I think now that you proved you have mastered the basics it's time to make it what I call real. It's a lot harder for someone who never served on real armor to know how things really look and what the soldiers really did. If you are serious about making it correct then you must read a lot about the subject and talk to people who served on one if you can.

The next step is weathering the model to look like it has been somewhere. In my opinion the key is to decide were it's been. In the motor pool during inspection were it would be clean and neat or in combat were it would be a mess with everything strapped on all over the place. It's no fun being in the middle of nowhere and run out of food, it happened to me, all the NCOs ate all the C rations and did not leave me anything, thanks guys. So you'll see a lot of ration boxes, ammo boxes and bags strapped to the sides, along with anything that will set off the fuse before it hits the armor. That's why it's important to learn about your subject.

I don't see as much stuff on Korean war vehicles as I do Vietnam and WWII.

Thanks. Even if the Walker Bulldog was my first model, I wanted to make it proffesional and good by researching a lot through videos, blogs, post, etc. I still have alot to learn, but I hope it goes well. I have a ton of models at home, over 15 +!!!. And a whole army of dragon figures I can mess with. I hope to see my progress improve. Thanks for all your support as well as some tips.