filter???

The chipping should usually be done first (try to think about how the vehicle would naturally accumulate damage/dirt/dust/fading) depending on the type of chipping you want to portray. I personally don't go in for the chipping approach as a matter of taste.

My own approach to weathering follows these steps:

1) Base coat and camo colors applied by airbrush

2) Airbrush mist coat of base color (for camo jobs) to tie colors together

3) Seal base coat (I work in enamels) with Future, apply decals, seal decals with 2nd coat of Future

4) Apply an overall wash (usually Raw Umber)

5) Apply dot filters

6) Apply pin wash (usually Burnt Umber)

7) Seal everything with lacquer-based Testors Lusterless Flat

8) Apply pigment weathering where desired

If you check out the build logs I have on my website, www.bpmodels.net , you'll see some step-by-step photos and descriptions of how I achieve my results. Others will do things differently with different sequences or materials depending on preferences so there's no "one true way" when it comes to weathering. Try out what works for you and fine-tune along the way and develop your own style over time is the best approach IMHO.

As for the brush to use with dot filtering, I usually apply the dots with small brushes and then blend the dots together to create the filtering effect using a square tipped blender brush (different sizes depending on the size/dimension of the surface I'm working with).

HTH!

Ok ill try that. Should I chip before or after the filtering? I'm trying to get down a good sequence to all these processes. Cause I still need to do a pin wash. Also what type of brush do you suggest for dot filtering on the horizontal surfaces? Oh yeah. I do really appreciate your time. Thanks. !

That's better info...the filter will do the "tieing" but won't do much for the warming/deepen/darken effect that you also are after. For that you need to use different colors and should probably consider applying a dot filter to target the different colors selectively in addition to the overall filter you've applied. Each color will respond differently to your effort to alter them, so the selective dot filter approach should give you the flexibility you need. HTH!

Ok. What I'm trying to do is tie in the scheme so the brown and green don't have that 3d effect. Which I think I've done. I was also trying to warm the color and deepen/darken the colors as well. I modulated so the colors are very pale cause all the tuts say the filters will re darken every thing. I think your right about it just not being the right filter for the job. I think I'm just going to go the oil route. I like how they work for the most part. And your right again I think I'm just expecting too much. But I think the oils will give more freedom of movement. Plus the migs are just to expensive to have sitting around waiting for a specific scheme. I applied the filters as per mig instructions. Not thinned with a wide flat brush. Over a flat coat.

Filters are meant to provide a subtle color shift/alteration of the base color they are applied over. They aren't going to produce a dramatic result as that's not what they are designed for on their own. The main purpose of filters is to tie in multiple colors together, potentially provide some fading and/or dust effects, and serve as a component of the weathering process but not the total effect. If you're applying a filter meant for dark green, it's probably not going to do much for the other 2 colors in a tri-tone scheme depending and that may also be adding to your disappointment. Adding multiple layers may build up the effect depending on how you're applying the filter but chances are you are more likely just thinning and moving the filter around.

I do have to ask a more basic/fundamental question though...what effect are you looking for vs. what you are seeing? It might be a case of setting the bar too high and/or using it for the wrong purpose, in which case a different technique might be required to achieve what you're after. Also, how are you applying the filter (i.e. what type of brushes are you using, are you thinning it or applying it straight out of the bottle, how long are you allowing it to dry between layers, etc.).

Filter application is one of the more delicate/advanced techniques in use today and does take some practice to get the hang of it. Mig products provide you with a consistent filter color/mix to start with but the rest is up to the user to achieve the desired result.