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Using a sharpie to paint/ color road wheels

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  • Member since
    June 2006
Using a sharpie to paint/ color road wheels
Posted by Tankluver on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 9:11 AM

Is it fround upon to use a sharpie to paint/ color in the road wheels of armor? I read about it in the Carl McLaughlin How to Model German World War II German Armor. Just wondering what you guys think? Does anyone else use this technique?

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Rothesay, NB Canada
Posted by VanceCrozier on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 9:15 AM

I've used a finepoint sharpie to outline the wheel hubs on landing gear wheels before. I'd be nervous about using one for an entire wheel though, the ink could separate under wet matte coats or drops of paint thinner. 2 cents

On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Fort Collins, Colorado, USA
Posted by Njal Thorgeirsson on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 9:19 AM

I think it would work well on a dull basecoat, but I wouldn't recommend it on plain plastic, because when one uses a sharpie on like, say, a plastic bag, the sharpie has this weird sheen, kinda like oil on water. Also, i'm not sure if sharpie is soluble in oil-based paint thinner (I assume it is not, but to me it would be very problematic if it were). Lastly and probably most significantly, many people (I included) prefer a shade of rubbery black with a little grey mixed in, because blackblack just looks too black (in my opinion), so sharpie might just be too black for some tastes.

But perhaps I'll have to give it a try!

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  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 9:24 AM

I believe it may be problematic if you overpaint using Tamiya acrylics, as the alcohol base may cause the Sharpie pigment to leach through. I seem to recall reading of people using a Sharpie or similar to pre-shade and having the ink leach through in an oddly purple shade (the ink not being "pure" black).

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  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: my keyboard dreaming of being at the workbench
Posted by Aaron Skinner on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 9:29 AM

I've used a Sharpie for some road wheel tires, usually when I'm in a little bit of a hurry, over both enamels and acrylics and under acrylic clearcoats with no problems. I'm not sure I'd recommend it for large areas, but the not quite black and the slight sheen look more like rubber than flat black paint. Bottom line, try it. If it works for you and you are happy with the results, then I say go for it, especially if it's less frustrating than trying to paint the tires.

Cheers, Aaron

Aaron Skinner

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FineScale Modeler

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 12:09 PM

I used the method for a while but found the purple-sheen that it has to not be to my liking even after the usual weathering treatment and such. I instead switched over to using a draftsman's circle template and air brush my road wheels and get a much better result.

As Aaron mentions, give it a whirl. If you like the result, run with it. There's no hard-and-fast rules to be frowned-upon when it comes to finishing your model the way you want it to look. Wink

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by minimortar on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 5:29 PM

I believe that I tried this years ago and found that the ink ran when I dull-coated with Testors Dull Coat Lacquer. I think that's what happened. Something turned me off from it anyway. I prefer to put the road wheels etc on a piece of sprue (or sim) and do the paint and spin method. Piece of cake with no worries later on in the process.

2 cents

 

Thanks,
Kevin Keefe

Mortars in Miniature
A Scale Model (Plus!) Collection of the Infantryman's Artillery

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 6:59 PM

With Stupid  Use the same method as Bill Cowboy. For the tire color, I mix 50/50 Flat and NATO Black. Wink

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  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 11:03 PM

http://th136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/zowzza/smileys/th_1lg026sad1.gif No frowning allowed here.......

                                        http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b232/gluetank/Animated/th_1-Animated-Disastermaster.gif?t=1296616998

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    March 2007
Posted by KAYSEE88 on Tuesday, June 14, 2011 12:52 PM

LOL.....i did that once for all the wheels on Tamiya's Patton and i almost fainted from the vapors, but other than that it works good but you must follow with pigments to kill the shine   Whistling

 

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Tuesday, June 14, 2011 7:01 PM

Who would these "frowners"be anyway ?

I use something  cylindrical (plastic cap , tubing etc) held over the painted wheel and spray paint the tyre ...while trying my best not to "frown" .Super Angry

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Montreal
Posted by buff on Tuesday, June 14, 2011 7:30 PM

I use a Sharpie all the time.  I kill the gloss with a coat or two of Polly Scale Flat and it goes dead flat.  I've never had any issues with weathering them.

On the bench: 1/32 Spit IXc

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Winamac,Indiana 46996-1525
Posted by ACESES5 on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 3:08 PM

I use the model master paint markers to do the rubber rims on tank road wheels they work great        ACESES52 cents

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