Using Oil Paints on Lower Hull Walls Behind the Running Gear?

Try this one Ben.

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=3901

Terry.

not a problem.  found it for ya anyway.  the one i found was in the July 2010 issue of finescale.  It's one of Karl Logan's articles.

AceHawkDriver

if i'm thinking correctly there is an article from awhile back where this technique was used on a German halftrack.  i'll look in my stack of FSMs when I get home, (next two hours or so), and let you know which it was.  It might not be the exact one you were thinking of but it might help.

Cheers for that Ace,

I've gone ahead and put down a light coat of Raw Umber Oil which, when fully dry, should look really good (I hope).

I've just updated my Blog on this page now - have a look.

Many thanks,

Ben

if i'm thinking correctly there is an article from awhile back where this technique was used on a German halftrack.  i'll look in my stack of FSMs when I get home, (next two hours or so), and let you know which it was.  It might not be the exact one you were thinking of but it might help.

No problem Pat,

That's great info and very helpful!

I'll give it a go!

Take care,

Ben

Sorry, I don't have links to this technique.  It was actually something I stumbled on myself as I also do oil paintings and had the supplies handy.  You can use the paint directly from the tube or thin it with Turpenoid slightly to decrease the dying time.   Even using straight from the tube the paint will dry enough to coat in a couple of days.  If you mix in baking powder you'll find you don't need a very thick layer at all.

Another technique I've found useful is to use earth colored acryllics mixed with baking powder (or sand for a coarser effect) as a base, as even a thick layer will dry quickly.  This heavy base can then be overcoated using oils if you wish.  To simulate having run  through a reedy marsh or bog, mix in some cut up paint brush bristles with the acryllic paint.  Just don't over do the acryllics as they're much harder to remove than oils.

I forgot to mention in my earlier post that after every thing is dry, I usually will give it a burnt umber/turpenoid wash followed up with dry brushing in a light yellow/ochre hue to bring out the details.  These techniques can be used on any part of the model where you wish to simulate dirt, not just the underside.

When all of the painting, decaling and over coating is done, there is one final step I learned from my friend Panzerjager.   Mix in a little yellow/ochre color in with Dull Cote and use your airbrush to lightly mist over  the entire model and base to subtly tie everything together.  This last step of adding a control coat really makes a difference!

                                                                                            Pat.

Cheers Pat,

Do you have any links to this being done. I know I saw one somewhere but cannot find it.

So, do I just brush on a heavy layer of dark oil and keep working it with different shades of oils?

How long would oil applied like this take to dry?

Many thanks,

Ben

I have used this technique successfully on several pieces of armor.  I also mix in baking powder with the oil paint to give it texture and when used with the popular earth colors in the various umber, ocher and sienna colors makes very realistic dirt.  A similar technique can also be used to simulate rusted areas by using earth colors but also mixing in some cadmium base in yellow, orange and red. 

The best thing is if you don;t like the look you can just wipe it off with turpenoid (BLUE label, Not green!) and start over.  You can also work in artists pastels or pigments for added texture and color effects.  I like to use a stiff bristled brush for stippling on the mixture.  After allowing to dry for a day or two it can be dusted over with Testors Dull Cote.  HTH.

                                                                                       Pat.