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Tamiya Panzerkampfwagen in progress

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  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Tuesday, July 12, 2011 8:37 PM

Have no idea what the parts you mentioned are or where they fit .

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Monday, July 11, 2011 8:27 AM

The kit was designed in the late 1960s as a motorized model/toy.  That's what all that structure in the hull tub and holes in the hull floor are about.  It once housed 2 "D" batteries, a motor and a drive system.  They powered the idlers rather than the actual drive sprocket.  I wouldn't be surprised that most armor modelers, at one time or another, built up the Tamiya Panther A.  Eons ago, whoever decided to pay for a great box art artist should know he practically made the company.  That eye-catching painting was irresistable.  The kit -- less so.

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
Posted by dazzjazz on Monday, July 11, 2011 7:49 AM

Thanks for your input everyone - much appreciated.

Here's the box art:

And I've nearly completed the lower hull - I just can't figure out exactly how to position the rear piece, so I'm going to hold off for as long as possible - should become clearer when I go to put the lower and upper halves together.

Some questions:

Step 1: Part A4 doesn't seem to sit right - left it off till now.
Step 2: Part C11 is very different in shape to diagram - no biggie ;)

Also, why would they make the Idler Wheel and get us to cut the pins off it? Why not just make it as it should be?

Thanks

Darren

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Monday, July 11, 2011 6:51 AM

Maybe you get to the local hobby shop and get a copy of Kalmbach's "Modelling Realistic Tanks and Artillery"?

Good basic instructional -- lots of pictures with easy explanations.  I think it'll help you avoid some headaches for the future.  Good luck.

 

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Sunday, July 10, 2011 10:59 PM

No it doesnt look right and your results are actually the reverse of what you want . Paint the model in its base color of a solid yellow color  and then apply black only in deep recessed area's .  The rest of the model can be washed in a dark brown color to make details stand out .Study pics of finished models and follow the WIP threads for further info .

Pre shading with black is best used when applying the final clor with a air brush .

Good luck .

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, July 10, 2011 6:00 PM

As mentioned, you would find it alot easier to build as much on the kit as possable before building.

If your doing the black as a primer, which i my view you don't need anyway, it would be better in a lighter colour.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Sunday, July 10, 2011 1:50 PM

it looks like you're brush painting. i don't think you'll achieve the desire you're out to get. The area you want to paint with a pre-shade are the nooks and crannies. This would be more effective, much like doing pin washes after laying down the base and camo schemes.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Rugby, England
Posted by Hinksy on Sunday, July 10, 2011 1:30 PM

Hi there buddy,

When I first started which wasn't that long ago I was always painting parts on the sprue but I soon realised that it just wasn't the way to go.

You'll find that any glue will mess your paintwork up and won't 'bite' on a painted surface - the surfaces need to 100% clean and free from any crud.

Like the Duke has said - build in sub assemblies ie turret, upper hull and lower hull. Assemble the wheels and keep them separate whilst you build and don't worry about painting any figures yet.

Perhaps you could show us exactly what kit it is you are building then tell us how you you want it to look i.e. colours etc and what you have planned.

Basically, put the paints away for a while and concentrate on the assembly and we'll help out all we can. It seems like a real minefield when you first start but it's really pretty simple - to put it another way; it's only as complicated as you make it! Yes

Can you take a photo of the box art and show us what you are using as in paints and kit?

Good luck,

Ben Toast 

On the Bench - Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. G (L.A.H.) Yes

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  • Member since
    April 2011
  • From: imperial beach, ca
Posted by malone duke on Sunday, July 10, 2011 12:11 PM
I have a few suggestions. First I would complete the model in sub assemblies before applying any paint. You're asking for a ton of clean up issues with all that paint on your parts. As your doing an old kit with issues maybe focus attention on the building processes like mold seams. Attachment points and gaps. That paint is gonna gum up those steps. I think maybe since being a newbie just slow down a bit and have fun building a clean model. The early tamiya kits are great skill builders. I just got back into the hobby as well and I wasted a lot of my time at first trying to compete with the pros and really got frustated. I had to cool my jets and focus on the basics and I'm having a much better time now.

  • Member since
    May 2011
Tamiya Panzerkampfwagen in progress
Posted by dazzjazz on Sunday, July 10, 2011 7:17 AM

Ok, normally I wouldn't bother at this stage but as I'm a newbie I could use all the advice I can get.

I decided to try a base colour in black, and I've started doing the first coat of yellow. Does it look right? I've tried to be consistent and use a thin coat, especially as I want the nice detail to be present.
Please see attached pics.

Rear plate in Tamiya black.

Rear plate in Humbrol 94 Matt

Main body piece in black

and in yellow.

I like this kit so far - good detail.

 

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