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'Hairspray Method' Question:

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  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Rugby, England
'Hairspray Method' Question:
Posted by Hinksy on Sunday, October 23, 2011 10:46 AM

Hi guys,

Now my Pz III N for Andys group build is finished I've got a weekends building free (I'm getting a new Tiger kit on November 4th for my Birthday so next weekend is free).

Now then, I have that nice little Tamiya Hetzer which I built a while back but the paintwork didn't come out so good so I sprayed it with straight DY and decided to use it as a test bed for weathering methods which has turned out to be a good move as it's really helped my work.

With this coming Tiger I would really like to try a full Hairspray Method - if not on the Tiger then on an upcoming build after the Tiger. There's nooo way that I'll be trying this method for the first time on my Tiger so the Hetzer will be perfect. I've only tried this method on Jerry Cans and light stowage with medium success.

I know the basics: Paint and decal, seal with gloss coat or Future/Klear, apply several light coats of hairspray then when the spray is dry several light ab coats of the paint to be chipped on top of the hairspray.

That's no problem but when it comes to tacling the air brushed paint so it softens and can be removed from the hairsprayed surface does it need to be fully cured i.e. left for 24 hours or would it work better when it's softer i.e. a few hours after being airbrushed on so it's touch dry and softer?

What would you advise? I'll let you know how it goes!

All the best,

Ben Toast

On the Bench - Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. G (L.A.H.) Yes

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  • Member since
    April 2011
  • From: imperial beach, ca
Posted by malone duke on Sunday, October 23, 2011 11:53 AM
Only let it cure for about an hour. Touch dry.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Sunday, October 23, 2011 12:02 PM

Ben, I haven't tried the hairspray method myself, but in almost all the articles I've read about it, removal of the paint is very soon after the initial application.  Don't let it fully cure.  Another tip I read is that if you're using acrylic paints to chip, Tamiya acrylics work better than Vallejo, Lifecolour, or MM, if you're going for a softer; smaller chip pattern. Seems Tamiya acrylics break apart in smaller flakes to help facilitate this.

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Monday, October 24, 2011 7:33 AM

By no means an expert but happy to share what I've learned so far.  I don't see the need for a sealer coat of Future.  I’ve done several vehicles and dozens of accessories with hairspray and never sealed the base coat.  Very important though have a really well cured base coat.

One of the 1st things to decide is what king of wear you want.  Large or broad areas or small tight patterns.  For the large areas you want it to flake off easily.  For small tight stuff, like if you were chipping along plane lines on a Japanese plane, you want it to be more difficult to come off so you can control it.  For the top coat I have used both acrylic and enamels in light and heavier coats.  The coat of hairspray can be lighter heavy too.  The amount of cure time can be short, just touch dry to a longer dry time, not never fully cured.  For each pairs of variables listed the 1st one will flake the easiest and the latter will take more work.

The 2 extremes...

Heavy hairspray, light acrylic top coat with short dry time.  Once the water starts working it gets going real fast and it will be easy to take off all, or most, of the top coat if you are not careful.  Paint will come off with a soft brush and light strokes.

Light hairspray, enamel with a longer dry time.  You may to get things started by making very light scratches in the top coat of paint to give a place for the water to get underneath.  A tiny drop of liquid soap will break the surface tension of the water so it sheets instead of beading up.  Wait a few minutes and start scrubbing, lightly at first to see how it reacting.  I have had to use really stiff brush that I made by cutting the bristles done to about 1/8" and scrubbed like I was trying to get red wine out of the carpet. 

 

 

Marc  

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Arkansas
Posted by K-dawg on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 9:43 AM

Check out my post in this thread with the photos. /forums/p/140693/1485380.aspx#1485380

Yes Tamiya paint works MUCH better because of it's chemical properties. I have been told that Gunze Acrylics also work very well (they're similar to Tamiya paints). Life color is so-so... Works if applied in thin coats. Stay away from Vallejo or similar paints.

Kenneth Childres, Central Arkansas Scale Modelers

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