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Solder needed for DML El Alamein Sherman?

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  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Solder needed for DML El Alamein Sherman?
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, November 20, 2011 4:48 PM

Am just starting DMLs El Alamein Sherman (6447). It's just dawned on me that the fenders are PE - the first kit I've seen sporting PE-only "mission critical" parts. (I'm not pleased about that at all. PE is always tricky stuff and not easy to repair of a mistake is made. I've worked with it, but it's always been on something that's optional - if you could call ship railings optional.  Tasca has done the same buggy with plastic fenders and I'm told they make adequate Shermans.)
Only found one full build review of this kit. The reviewer thinks that CA will not hold the fender supports in place and that solder is needed. I haven't soldered anything since a crystal set 50 years ago and am not really interested in learning the art. Has anyone built this kit? Is the reviewer right?

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: East Bay, CA
Posted by Lundergaard on Tuesday, November 22, 2011 12:17 PM

You should give the soldering a go.  If you have handled an iron before you can do it.  Pick up some flux paste, lead-free high quality solder for electrical work and a low wattage iron.  I've been soldering guitar electronics and guitar tube amps for many years and was sort of daunted by soldering PE.  Couldn't have been easier (and i never used to use flux and now I do for electronics work as well, stuff is amazing).

What i do is scuff up and anneal the parts first so they are flexible and have some bite for the solder and later the paint.  Use some blue tack to hold parts in position.  Brush on a tiny amount of flux to the joint.  Slice off little piece of solder (straight from the spool will put too much solder on).  Melt the solder on the tip of the iron.  Touch that spot of iron with solder to the joint.  The flux should pull the solder off and flow it across the joint.  Practice on some spare PE first but i think after 2-3 tries you'll get it.  Plus if not right, just de-solder and try again.  SO much better than CA glue.

Good luck!

Andy

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Tuesday, November 22, 2011 1:53 PM

Can you take a picture of the instructions for the sequence? Not sure what's meant by fender supports, exactly, but it seems to me that those would be a PE-to-plastic connect?

Only time I've used PE fenders I used a slow-curing Loctite (outdoor adhesive) to secure them to the tank. Stuff's messy and strings out, but it holds better than CA and gives you time to work it into place.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

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