Weathering Question (yes, another one...)

At this point you could still apply mud. Some people....including me, find it eaiser to weather the track and roadwheel area while it is un assembled and then touch it up or finish once the roadwheels and tracks are on. This allows eaiser weathering in the road wheel area.

Winter camo on the other hand would have to be planned. You have to decide what method you would use for the white wash. Will it look weathered or look somewhat new.

Rounds Complete!!

It doesn't answer your question, but looks great for your first tank, escpecially if you've not been building models for long!

Yes, redleg, I've noticed that it's gonna be easier to wait for wheels and tracks until most of the tank is completed. I've started the cyber-model 1/35 Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf. D and can already tell that it is a completely different animal altogether, starting with the amount and detail of parts in the kit. I appreciate the pointers though.

And four-star, thank you. This is actually the 7th or 8th model I ever finished... only a couple have made it to the completed assembly stage... and let's not count the ones that are crumpled up in the closet or bit the dust because something didn't go right somewhere along the way. ;)

Hey Wodthing,

That's a yummy looking model and one that any modeller would be proud of - well done

I can see the rust and the dust but, if you think about it, if it's been out long enough to start rusting in small areas I'd bet it would have small chips, footprints, general muck etc.

I know you are asking about muck now anyway so that's good. I'd look at investing in some MIG pigments i.e. rubble dust, various mud colours, pigment fixer and Acrylic Resin to make 'Hard Mud' whick looks great (or you can just just buy a very cheap bag of Plaster of Paris in place of the Resin mix).

AK also make a 'mud mix' pack with everything you need to make good mud - it comes with instructions too.

http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/ak_interactive_mud_set_-p-22816.html

The entire AK range - excellent and I use them all. The 'Streaking' stuff is superb:

http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/paints_pigments_filters_washes-c-5_76.html

The other good option for someone fairly new to Armour Weathering is the Tamiya 'Diorama Texture Paint' which is a big pot full of a sludge-like mix that is very realistic and set's rock hard. You can add pigment and paints to it to vary the colour a bit and just slap it on or use a fine cheap brush to be a bit more precise with it. 

Tamiya Dio paints:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/871texture_paint/index.htm

They are sold for use mainly as making groundworks, mud, sand etc but boy do they make a great mega muddy model if that's what you are after!

These are a couple of the very first Texture Paints that I bought and below is an old model of mine from my real newbie days - it's not the best model I know but the effect on the wheels is brilliant!

One of my very first models - the Tamiya M26 Pershing with the muddy wheel effect gained from using the Texture paint. It's rock hard now!:

That should get you going. I'd recommend:

• either getting some MIG pigment and making your own 'concoction' with plaster, additional paints poured into the mix, extra pigment and applying with very old cheap brushes - go to a cheap shop and get a selection pack of brushes that go from small to  flat, large tipped brushes (you will only use them once so don't use your best Sables)! 
• Trying the AK selection or
• trying the Tamiya Dio Paints - make sure you add some colour via pigment and paint so it isn't a single shade and mix well!

Before doing the 'heavy weathering' I'd look at adding some light chips and scratches - the model still has plenty of scope for this type of weathering imo.

As for a Winter scheme? Personally I'd start out from the beginning with a winter scheme in mind. Choose you build and choose how to add your Winter Whitewash i.e. via the Hairspray Method for example or a ready-to-go whitewash for models etc.

I hope this helps - this model at the top that you posted is a prime specimen and will look superb when complete.

All the best,

Ben

That's a ton of useful info there, Ben, and I really appreciate it! As a matter of fact, I've already ordered a few MIG products last night... just a variety (Urban Combat Pigment Set, Russian Earth, and Wet Effects and Damp Earth Mixture), so I can fool around with it.

As for the chipping effects, I read a few articles about different methods (salt, hairspray, etc.) and I guess it will be just one more thing to add to my play-around-with-it-until-you-get-it-list, which on top of that is aforementioned mud or dust, followed closely by dot filtering to get a little "life" into a bland colored panel. But, once again, thanks the helpful pointers and the kind words.

CH

wodthing

That's a ton of useful info there, Ben, and I really appreciate it! As a matter of fact, I've already ordered a few MIG products last night... just a variety (Urban Combat Pigment Set, Russian Earth, and Wet Effects and Damp Earth Mixture), so I can fool around with it.

As for the chipping effects, I read a few articles about different methods (salt, hairspray, etc.) and I guess it will be just one more thing to add to my play-around-with-it-until-you-get-it-list, which on top of that is aforementioned mud or dust, followed closely by dot filtering to get a little "life" into a bland colored panel. But, once again, thanks the helpful pointers and the kind words.

CH

 

No problem there CH,

Compared to most of these guys on here I'm a relative newbie (I started modelling just shy of 3 years ago) but as I've learnt more these are the things that have helped me out most when it comes to weathering.

I really rate MIG for their Pigments and AK for their 'Streaking Grimes'. Start to use Windsor and Newton or MIG Abteilung artists oils for rust effects etc. Used in conjunction with White Spirit it's amazing the effects that can be obtained. You mention dot-filtering which you'll obviously need a selection of decent oils for!

I haven't done a hairspray whitewash yet BUT upstairs I have a Tamiya 1/35 Hetzer painted in Ambush Scheme. I overcooked the rattlecan gloss varnish (I now use Vallejo Acrylic varnishes, water based and sprayed through the air brush) and it darkened the finish BADLY so I'm going to re-do the decals and seal it with Future (called Klear here in the UK) and do an all-over hairspray job on it. I don't want to try it on an expensive new build as I've seen some people have some right disasters - hence my need to use a 'test-bed' old build first!

Cheers buddy and good luck,

Ben

Or you could leave it as is.  It looks great now.  Weathering is a matter of context.  A pristine vehicle can look just as impressive as a heavily weathered one in the right context.  Conversely, the wrong context can ruin a massive amount of hard work.

My suggestion is have in mind what you are trying to depict.  Plan it out, then execute it using the excellent techniques presented here and elsewhere.  Finally, just when you think you need just one more touch, STOP!  More often than not, that last little thing tips the balance into overdone.