Newbie help - Tamiya 1/35 Sturmgeschuetz IV Tank and Panzer Kampfwagen IV AusfD

Hi Riv and welcome back.

I have never given a primer coat. I just wash down the molds and spray mostly Tamiya acrylics which adhere and cover well. If you're referring to oxide-red primer used on the real vehicles, unless you're chipping, I probably wouldn't bother with it.

Use of a primer coat is usually driven by 1 of 2 factors....type of paint used for the finish colors and whether or not you are using metal parts (aluminum, photo etch, etc.).

Both of the kits in question are older kits so washing the sprues as tigerman mentions ought to be sufficient if you're using good paints that adhere well. Most who prime go with a neutral gray primer although others looking for historical accuracy use a Red Oxide primer for German armor.

Personally I work exclusively with enamel paints and use a primer coat that is a close analog to Red Oxide as I normally have some PE work on the build, need to check seams and the occasional putty work before commiting to the base coat, and to ensure that I don't end up with any bare plastic spots that might escape the initial passes of airbrush application. Enamels will also "settle" into each other slightly as they cure and I tend to use multiple light mist coats to build up the finish and avoid covering up fine detail...so a primer coat helps with that as well. HTH and welcome to the forums and armor building in general!

Hi buddy,

I use either Tamiya or Vallejo rattlecan primer religiously and wouldn't dream of painting a build without a good primer base to act as a 'tooth' for the up coming coats of paint.

Not only does it serve as a tooth to help the basecoat layer grip onto it highlights the gaps that need filling and assembly flaws that need attention.

You don't have to use grey standard primer-Vallejo make a range of different coloured primers. Like Bill says a Red Oxide colour (included in the vallejo range) is good.

I've read a lot of threads on here where people have raised the issue of paint not adhering to the surface and almost always it has come down to primer not being used.

Without fail I'd always ensure replacement metal barrels and Friul White metal tracks are primed. Vinyl one-piece tracks too especially Dragon DS Tracks which I know a few people who have had paint literally sliding off it because a primer hasn't been used - the DS (Dragon Styrene) is too smooth and offers nothing in the way of tooth.

Some folk like to prime and some don't think it necessary - personally I think it is a vital step. For the cost of a tin of primer I wouldn't take the risk and prime away but take it easy and lay it on evenly and don't overspray or it will run.

All the best,

Ben  

Like tiger, i have never used a primer on armour, even though i use both PE and resin AM parts. So the choice is really yours.

I have never primed a plastic model in over several hundred builds in over 40 years of modeling.  I agree with some of the posters above that priming is not necessary.  I just find it an unneeded step.  I've never had any problem with the paint not adhering to the plastic, even with metal track.  As long as the surface is clean of any residue I don't think you should have a problem.

Doug

And just to add to that. I have a box of broken kits in the shed, some built up to 20 years ago. I was going through it the other day, taking of useful spares and throwing away what i didn't need. Despite this kits sitting in a plastic box for 8 years, being moved from one place to another, the paint is still in one piece, including on the PE parts. If i want to check seams or areas i have filled, i just brush some white paint over that area. Saves using the airbrush unnecessarily and adding another layer that isn't needed.