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dry-brushing 3-color camo. help

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  • Member since
    November 2005
dry-brushing 3-color camo. help
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 6, 2004 9:03 AM
hello guys.

when dry brushing an olive drab finish, you'll just dry brush it with a lighter shade of olive drab right?
what if it's a 3-color camo? what color should i use for dry brushing?

i'm sorry if i posted this topic here at the armory division instead of posting it on the painting topics.
since we're number 1, i can conclude that we get the most readers, so we also have the most replies. hehe

thanks!
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Rowland Heights, California
Posted by Duke Maddog on Friday, February 6, 2004 10:06 AM
I'd like to know too, especially since 2/3rds of my tanks are three-color camo patterns.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 6, 2004 10:44 AM
Well... Here's a thought....and don't take this the wrong way... Why would you dry brush? I have not dry brushed a model in years. To be perfectly honest what force in nature deposits a lighter shade of the base coat on a vehicle? Dust and such collects in the corners. If you so desire try using very light washes (filters) and full local washes to achieve the blotchy appearance I think you are trying to represent. Also if you are handy with a airbrush you can use that to discolor the paint. Use very thin paint to slowly build up color.

I realize I am rubbing some folks the wrong way. But its just my two cents...

If you do want to drybrush. I would go with the base color since the other colors are applied over it an not all that great a paint.

Good luck with whatever you choose... lIke I said this was not intended to step on toes its just an option... after all it is personal choice...

peace
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Friday, February 6, 2004 11:47 AM
Hmmm, Keneth, interesting food for thought.

Here's my 2 cents...I've never considered dry brushing to represent dirt and deposits. I figure that's what washes do. The dry brushing is meant to represent worn paint, sun bleached paint, and highlights due to the way the surrounding light reflects off higer surfaces at a steeper angle.

I could be totally up in the night on this. I've had a couple of days of partial sleep deprevation (read that to mean, I'm WAY tired!!).

Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 6, 2004 11:48 AM
I'm guessing a light, neutral colour like light grey or a light sand colour.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Friday, February 6, 2004 11:55 AM
I agree with Michaelvk, above. Wash first, then I use armor sand or sand lightly drybrushed over all to bring out details and give an overall dusty appearance.

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 6, 2004 12:45 PM
Bill,
I absolutly see what your saying, but it seems a lot of folks over do it...
As I said I am not trying to start anything... Just my opinon. I guess I got put off with drybrushing years back when it was all the rage to use what seemed like almost pure white to make details just jump out. I thought it looked a little odd. I freely admit that it has its uses...personally I used it on cloth items more than anything (wrinkled crusty canvas for instance)

Again it really is more of a personal preference...
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Friday, February 6, 2004 1:17 PM
Garrry I use a lighter version of the lightest color on the tank myself. Take a German WWII 3 color, I use a lightened "dark yellow", however on the areas that are covererd in the green and red I do a super subtle highlight there or it stands out like a sore thumb. Theoretically you should use a lighter version of each color in the colored area but I'm lazy. Big Smile [:D] All the drybrushing should be subtle anyway so just go slow with it and when you think you almost have enough, you're probably there. If you're doing "wear and tear" it can be heavier and should be the color of what's underneath, primer,metal, rusty metal whatever.

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Friday, February 6, 2004 1:30 PM
I get you, Kenneth. I've seen some that I thought were way over the top on it. Looks like a poor job of showing a whitewash! I wasn't trying to argumentative, either. Just stating opinion of humble self!! lol

Bill
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 6, 2004 10:01 PM
thanks for the tips.

i'm planning to put some weathering on my stug and unimog. some scratches maybe from driving too close to a tree or some bullet holes. i think scratches can be done with dry drushing and the bullet holes from a soldering pen.

Kenneth: what's filter wash? after the wash, you don't dry brush?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, February 7, 2004 1:17 PM
Garry,

Here is a link to the weathering I use... Try some of it, try all of it.. Just experiment a little. Find what looks good to YOU!! Good luck. Keep us updated...

http://www.missing-lynx.com/rareworld.htm
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Southern Maine
Posted by spector822002 on Saturday, February 7, 2004 2:21 PM
Drybrushing is just to highlight the details of the model ,rivets ,bolts, and such I use just a slightly lighter color than the base, mix with a bit of white , I agree with kenneth in that anything much lighter makes the model look pasty . Unlike most modelers, I use artists oil paints ,just like my washes , they blend way better and are way more forgiving of mistakes ( drybrushing you always tend to hit the wrong places or have just a bit too much paint on the brush !) I always hated that phase of painting the most . It can just ruin a model if not done right ! Plus drybrushing tears your brushes right up .Black Eye [B)] Good luck with it no matter how you do it !
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Saturday, February 7, 2004 4:57 PM
That's intriging Shawn. I agree about the brushes and pasty look. Do you mix the same consistancy as a wash? Just might try it myself.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, February 7, 2004 10:30 PM
thanks Kenneth!
very nice tips!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 8, 2004 11:07 PM
thanks Spector!

another question. if let's say u put three similar tanks with the same camo colors side by side. would there camo pattern be exactly similar? like the curves etc...? are they painted on the battlefield?
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Sunday, February 8, 2004 11:21 PM
I think the crew painted their own tanks in the field, thus they would all be more or less different. The paint was diluted with water, gasoline, and so on, thus the shades were quite varied.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Philippines
Posted by Dwight Ta-ala on Sunday, February 8, 2004 11:25 PM
I don't drybrush too often. I only drybrush on areas where there is a great possibility of having wear by say being stepped on or rubbed against. I believe that most do drybrushing to add depth to the model. For me depth could come from shadows that come from lighting. A model is in 3D and could easily be presented to show depth through proper lighting. But I do believe that dry brushing is necessary to simulate wear. And I agree with erush. Use the lightest color in the camo scheme used on the subject.

Good luck.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 8, 2004 11:31 PM
Thanks for the help!
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