Now I've done it...

Can't say that I've seen it myself. Isn't Hobby Boss controlled by Trumpeter? 

My feelings are that many of todays kits are over-engineered. Too many parts in sub-assemblies that would be better off with fewer. This is one of the things that Dragon did with their Smart Kits. They simplified the PE they were adding in their kits and reducing the part counts to a more manageable total. Those 1000-piece super kits are gone, but they still pack quite a bit of sprues in the box.

I have a Tristar Brummbar that appears over-done, but that being said, the detail is fantastic in it.

I still like the newer Tamiya kits with 300 parts or so, but just wish they had PE grills and one-piece barrels. But they do go together so well.

I could not say if there's a connection between the two names or not it would probably help if I could read Chinese. I like the Tamiya kits also, just fall right together...found one of the seventies release Panzer II's for a ridculously low price last year. Took an afternoon to build and paint and while it is not up to the standards of today's releases it still ain't bad.

Looks like I'll have to get a PE bender now. Might as well get used to it I guess.

Yes, Trumpeter is Hobby Boss, according to this article: http://www.cybermodeler.com/special/trumpeter09.shtml 

I haven't seen a lot of build ups on the HB 222, but I don't frequent WW2 German armor modeling forums since it is not my main focus. I haven't heard anything bad about it beyond HB forgetting to include the fuel tank.

I think it suffered from market saturation with Tristar, Bronco and Hobby Boss all coming out with the same base armored cars Sd.Kfz 221/222/223.

Here is a discussion from Track Link regarding the HB 222: http://www.track-link.net/forum/modelling_kits/10584

The HB kit should be a blast to build. It has a ton of detail, and I think you even get an engine too. Don't be intimidated by the parts count, just take your time and dry fit things first. I built the old Tamiya one that I've had for years. It is very simple and basic but I scratched out a complete interior for it and added a metal barrel and pe screens. It has done very well in the show circuit.

I remember that Tamiya kit, built one about 15 years ago and I recall it is a sweet kit. I nearly went the same route this time but figured I should try others. Yes, HB gives you an engine, they also give you three frets of photo etch which is something I don't have much experience with. It looks, however,  like I'm about to get some and if I have the willies this is what is causing them. I'm sure that my nifty new PE bender will come to my rescue and the systematic approach will achieve the desired results. Who sez ya can't teach an old dog new tricks. Guess I'll have to document my fumbling here for laughs thanx all for your encouragement.

Mark

Before you invest in a PE bender, might I suggest you read some tutorials on how people bend tons of PE w/o them?  I've had mine for many years. I use it 2 or 3 times a year. 

I almost all my PE bending with hemostats and a screwdriver or single edge razor and a metal ruler.

Reserve

 they also give you three frets of photo etch which is something I don't have much experience with. It looks, however,  like I'm about to get some and if I have the willies this is what is causing them. I'm sure that my nifty new PE bender will come to my rescue and the systematic approach will achieve the desired results. 

Mark

Mark

Nothing to working with pe. My first time was in 1/44 scale and it came out looking fantastic. No fancy tools to use for this task either. I use several tweezers for bending small parts and attaching them, single edged blades for bending the larger parts, and an old bathroom tile for the cutting surface. I use an Xacto small curved blade to cut the pe from the frets. Thick CA or Gorilla Glue, RC56  glue to secure the pe. Hope this helps.  

Oops too late I read you guys reply, I already picked up the bender. Oh well I've always liked precision tools so it's not wasted money.

I started the build yesterday and two things are immediatly apparent. First, this is sort of a borderline evil little kit in that there's quite a bit of flash/ mold line cleanup that needs to be done, the fit is not the best, and some assemblies such as the suspension do not have a positive placement and angle. Dry fitting, filing, adjustment before glue drying, slow going, and look alot are a must.

Second, it looks good, good. Detail is very good throuought and while perhaps not complete it's gotta be pretty close. Be interesting to see it with paint on it.

Please post some pictures. Sounds like a very interesting future purchase!

Seems to me I said I'd do this...thanks for reminding me.

The completed frame. I managed to get one crossmember in upside down and did not notice it until it was too late. #*%&!. It'll not be seen when all's done.

The kit engine before detailing and drybrushing

The photo etch frets

Decal sheet

Some of the more complicated (to me) PE folds. If this turns out right it's going to be in a diorama with another kit I've completed already, will post as progress is achieved. Hope this gives you an adequate appraisal, Plastickjunkie.

Regards,

Mark

A bit of progression...

Base paint on everything except the engine and radiator. The engine is kind of basic and begs for things like exhaust manifolds, distributor and wires, wiring harness, etc but under the circumstances of the planned diorama open engine hatches would be silly. Call me lazy but I don't put alot of effort into things that will not be seen.

The bad side of this kit is really showing up now, lots of tiny intricate parts with mold lines, flash, and not the best fit. It took me an hour of filing and fitting to get the engine bulkhead to not interfere with the upper hull in a dry fit test. I'd feel like I was back in the seventies were it not for the PE and detail offered in it. Bash on, bash on.

Coming along nicely!

I followed your link, W. Bill, you've been at this awhile haven't you? That's some very good work I was looking at there. Do you do dioramas also?

The gun mount for the 222, about a 30 parts count if I recall correctly...

I've been building armor for about 10 years now, so I suppose that countas as a while. Thanks for the comments on my work, I don't do dios due to space restrictions and lack of interest in pursuing that particular angle. I dabbled a little bit in bases some time back but it just didn't take.

Gun mount looks good, 30 parts translates into some nice detail for it!

Closed up and base painted.

The kit has been a fight, taken much extra time I did not think I'd need but it's not undoable. PE is a pain in the butt. Perhaps I'll get better with practice.

Drybrushing, filtering, and dust time next.

Moving right along with this one! Don't let the PE get you down, it does take a little practice to get comfortable with it like anything else and the key is always to remember that just because something is provided as PE doesn't always mean that it's better than the styrene options (if available). Pick and choose your battles wisely!

Good advice and well said. I'm thinking of some thin styrene strips to replace the rain gutters above the vision ports, the PE version of which got mangled by my clumsiness. Perhaps a strategically placed tarp will eliminate this problem also as I am not above such chicanery. I'm glad the major portion of this one's behind me, my next one will be a nice, easy Tamiya.

Looking good so far. Keep at her.

Done with construction at last. Hobbyboss sees fit to include the new politically correct DAK palms with the seperate half of the swastika, happily I had some spares from an old Tamiya kit. Need to finish beating it up and dirtying it, then it's on to a base with another kit which I will post on the diorama thread. Where I should have posted my last one. Guess I can be taught.

Thanks for the encouragement, guys. This one came close to ending up in the garbage bucket a couple of times.

Regards,

Mark

Nice work!!!  Hope to see your work here again.

Not bad for your return debut! Some things you might consider for your next build would be using something like Future (acrylic floor polish) to prevent silvering on the decals and also the application of a pin wash or similar to help add some depth to the details. Nice work and look forward to future projects!

Thank you both, gentlemen.

 Deafpanzer, if you're interested I have another post in the armor thread called "New here" and some more of my projects are visible.

Wild Bill, I've heard of guys using Future but I would not know what to do with it. What I usually do is base coat, drybrushing, decal application, and chipping if there is any to be done. That's where this model is at now. Next I airbrush Model Masters semi gloss acryllic clear on, then comes the filter, wash, and general dust and dirt. How do you use the Future and in what order? This may be a better option than the one I use.

Regards,

Mark

You apply the future by airbrush (straight from bottle) before you apply your decals. Apply decals and use setting solution of your choice, once decals are all set, spray a 2nd coat o Future to seal them in and voila! no silvering. Future is a semi-gloss so you can use it in place of the MM stuff and it will also protect for washes, filters, etc. HTH!

Sweet. I'll try this on the next project for sure. Thanks for sharing this, it would not have occured to me.