Tamiya Panzer II Ausf B - COMPLETE! (19.09.12)

darson

Hinksy

• My friend from the 'UK' forum ,John Pridgent, has said that all vehicles involved in the Westward assault on France had a white air recognition sguare or rectangle painted on the engine hatch at the rear. Should I do this, in your opinion anyway?

Cheers Bill,

Ben

Ben in the decal sheet from the lovely people at Bison Decals they definitely show an air recognition on the engine hatch on the rear deck.  You can see what I mean here click me

Also from the pics that I have, the PzKpfw II didn't seem to carry a heck of a lot of stowage in Poland or France

Loving this thread by the way, it's a really interesting read.

It looks like I need only paint the bottom hatch white. The 'Blucher' (if you can read it) has the whole hatch painted and my version has the bottom half painted. Nice link - thanks Darson

Ben

The sprue has arrived!

A new Jack and Barrel toolbox/tube!

Thanks Hobby Co.!

Hi guys,

Quick pre-weekend update:

I'm off to work in a minute and will be working from home tomorrow and Sunday but that means that the rest of the weekends this month are ALL MINE! HA HA HAAAA!

At present my model is decaled and painted in full - it also has a very glossy finish which I put on for the decals and to seal everything.

I want to add filters but I'm sure that the AK filters like a nice matt surface and pin washes want a glossy surface? Any ideas on the best way to go about adding filters and washes now?

I'm thinking filter and pin wash now on the gloss surface. Then matt coat, then add washes and pigments and chipping/heavier weathering/streaking?

What do you experts think re the gloss and matt surfaces and which way round to apply filters and washes?

I'd appreciate any advice - I'm not applying heavy damage, just weathering effects and a few light chips maybe.

I'll be finishing the Friuls this weekend and doing whatever else I can - it depends on how busy I am. I want to have this build finished by the end of September so I can start my Dragon Tiger I Ausf E with Zim for Tigermans 'Steel Cats' GB at the beginning of October.

Take care,

Ben

Hey!  Where are the pictures?  

I am not sure which procedure works best.  I sprayed flat clear on first before I applied AK filters on.  The of course I sprayed flat clear again at the end to protect all of jobs.  

You will start your Tiger at end of September?!?!?!  It means I will start my build before you do if I can finish my Pz III. LOL

Hey DP,

Nothing really show yesterday. The paint had all set well and the decals were sitting PERFECTLY after a couple of treatments of Micro-Sol.

Basically I was wondering about best procedures. The tank was glossy all over because I want to get some good capillary action for when I do my pin washes. Usually I'll just do the decal areas before and after decal application.

Last time I put down AK filters over a glossy surface there were lots of 'bits' left sitting on the surface - AK recommend that their filters be applied to a Matt surface to capture these 'bits'. Today I tried Blue for Panzer Grey Filter and a Brown for Dark Yellow Filter and they were fine. This obviously should have been done prior to varnishing but basically, in my haste to make some progress, I forgot! D'oh!

I've got one more light layer of Blue for Panzer Grey Filter to do and we are done with the Filters. Pin washes and washes next then the heavier stuff.

I've got rusty mate, I need to speed up! It's easy to forget you best methods that work for you after 3 months!

Today I wanted to put a white aerial marking on the engine hatch that most of the 1940's Panzer's going into France would have had. I masked off a nice square using low tack/no residue Scotch Tape and air brushed Tamiya Flat White onto the spare rectangle. After 5 minutes I removed the masking and the ENTIRE square of white paint lifted clean off. It didn't take to the glossy surface!

I had to rough the deck up a bit and ended up painting a square with a brush and Vallejo Model Colour 'Stencil' white. It looks good.

I'm working this weekend but it's very quiet today so now the white marking is on I'm assembling more Friuls.

Photos in a couple of hours!

Ben   

Hi guys,

First off please read last post if you haven't already then this one!

Update - with photos:

Paint is on, white aerial marking is on the engine hatch and the antennae is dry fitted. Light filters have been applied and before I start on heavier weathering and apply a matt coat (LIGHT chipping and streaking etc) I'll be using the very glossy surface to assist with pin washes.

I'm working this weekend so now I'm up-to-date I'll be completing the Friuls tomorrow. I bought about 6 0.5mm dia 12" lengths of Brass Rod to use for the links as the Friul wire is so thin they can be pulled apart!

I'll be finishing the Friuls tomorrow and hopefully I'll have time to blacken them too with the AK Blue Burnishing Fluid. I've pre-drilled all links so it's just a matter of inserting the Brass rods now. Then it's FUN TIME! I'm not going to use the PE clamps but will instead use the Tamiya tools and I'll add a thin piece of flat hammered metal wire (5 amp fuse) to fix on to look like clamp releases. I'm keeping my PE clamps.

I've looked at wbill's Pz II chassis Wespe blog on his site - I have to get one! GREAT WORK BILL!

http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Album/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=48

Note: RB Brass Antennae in place and Friuls slowly taking shape! Also note the handpainted aerial recognition marking:

I hope you like her so far - remember she is FAR from complete which is why she is glossy! FEEDBACK NEEDED!

This 312 decal at turret rear really gave me some hassles but after plenty of Micro-Sol she was fine!

Note: RB Brass Antennae in place and Friuls slowly taking shape!

Friuls, 0.5mm dia Brass Rod for links, AK Blue for Panzer Grey Filter and 'Stencil' paint used for the Aerial Marking - also some of the bits of stowage I'm using:

I hope you like her chaps. I'd love to hear any suggestion for weathering/chipping (basically how much)?

Tomorrow I'll get the Friuls finished and Burnished too IF I have time.

Then next week I'll be on the finishing run and starting the weathering and adding stowage!

Take care guys,

Ben

Looks Great I just started this kit about two weeks ago and was trying find out about that two tone camo i thought that most panzer IIs had that going into Poland but never found a solid case till now great build and can't wait to see what you do on that Wespe when you get it

Nice work on the aerial marking Ben! Other details are looking sharp and the tracks will be a plus as well. Just be sure that you position the antenna in the fully upright position when the time comes...it was raised/lowerd via a locking handle on the inside of the hull and basically only had 2 positions...up or down.

Cheers Bill,

The antennae will be coming off again soon whilst I do more work on the tank. It will be upright in position.

I'm loving your Wespe - I'm going to have to build one with upgrades.

A new year build I reckon! The first build of 2013!

Update tomorrow!

Ben

Can't go wrong with the Tamiya kit Ben, builds up very nicely OOB and even better with just a few little upgrades here and there.

Hi guys,

A quick progress report:

Because I was working from home this afternoon/evening I couldn't commit to anything serious incase I got caught up on a 30 minute phone call. Luckily it was pretty quiet and due to the fact that I worked yesterday (from home aswell) too, the remaining weekends this month are all mine - sweet. That should allow me to get this Pz II totally finished and I'll be ready to begin my Tiger I Ausf E build for Tigerman's 'Steel Cat's' GB!

Anyway - today got one complete run of Friuls finished and made a start on the other half run of Friuls.

Also, I raided a huge fret of Dragon tool clamps and pinched the clasp release handles and fixed them to the kit tools - they look sooo much better as do the Friuls:

Tool 'clamps' fitted:

Friul run one sorted! Wheels still to be painted!

Slow progress but getting there!

Have a good week fellas,

Ben

She is coming along great Ben. I do like that colour scheme. I am deffinatly hooked on that for my early war Pz's.

still looking great i'm keeping a eye on this one its been really helpful as i build mine... i've never used them tracks before i mostly have just stuck with either AFV or dragon MT how hard are they to assemble?

Friuls look great Ben. Wish I could have followed the thread better.

Cheers guys,

Rambo - Friuls are brilliant  Being made from Lead they have a scale weight so natural sag easily occurs and it does look VERY natural too! I'll use AK's Blemishing Fluid to complete the tracks - I soak the Friuls in the AK liquid for ten(?) minutes and they take on an aged, blackened/rusty appearance but they can be primed and painted as normal too. The high points on the tracks can be rubbed down with a file to expose bare metal to show track wear from running on concrete road surfaces.

Imo the kick ass - much better than Modelkasten tracks as they can take all the pulling around they need. Theya re affordable as long as you aren't knocking out one build per week! Here in the UK they cost £20-£25. Modelkasten plastic workables cost about £15-£20.

The extra weight given to the model really helps too.

Tigerman - I wish you could have too bud! She's going to be good! I'll be building my Tiger I Ausf E for your GB straight after this build! Probably at the start of October?

Ben

Moving right along Ben, the PE clamp handles add some nice detail to the Tamiya tools for sure.

Hey buddy!  Great camo job!  Nice short cut using claps to the molded tools.  Never thought about that earlier. LOL

I have to build a Pz II next year... thanks a lot!

Hinksy

I hope you like her chaps. I'd love to hear any suggestion for weathering/chipping (basically how much)?

Hiya Ben, for the weathering I would go for a dusty with the areas where the crew clamber over kept mostly clean

While I'm not a massive chipping fan if you are going to do it I would keep it light given the speed of the campaign, the fairly new condition of the vehicles and theamount of time in service.

Cheers

Looks good Ben. I agree with Darren on that.  I know it hard to stop once you get going but less will be more on this one.

Cheers guys - appreciate the generous comments,

I'm not sure why I asked that question re the chipping? I think I must have been half asleep when I wrote that last night and intended on enquiring about something else?

As you say, some very light chipping yes but mainly light dust. This isn't going to be a mud covered, beaten to bits hunk of junk!

Glad you like the clamp handles - God them clamps are a nightmare. It didn't take me long to decide to just stick the handles on! LOL!

I will use the proper full PE clamps for my GB Tiger I build though.

Cheers guys,

Ben

Hi guys,

a VERY quick update!

Erm, both links of Friuls are complete. I'd have a lot more done but an unplanned day out yesterday and having to work today as someone phoned in sick left me enough time to assemble the entire second run from scratch.

These were the fiddliest Friuls I've worked with so far-even worse than the Pz I's!

At least I can get really stuck in now! I have the blemishing fluid so the tracks are good to go.

For those thinking of building this kit with Friuls I used 103 links on one side and 102 on the other. I'd have liked a saggy look but it looked odd and they wouldn't sit right. Add one extra link and it really messes things up on both sides!

Now, lets see where some light weathering takes this thing!

Update next weekend!

Ben

man them tracks look good might have to order me a set for mine. Can't wait to see yours done its been helping me work on mine

Hey fellas,

As usual here is the Saturday update!

First off - how do I know what Ausf Pz II this is?

I really need to get this build wrapped up asap as I have a spanking new Dragon Ausf E with Zim ready to go for Tigerman's 'Steel Cats' GB.

Last week the Friuls were completed (still to be treated which I'll do tomorrow). I do think they looked a bit tight so I'm going to add another link to each side tomorrow then I'll put a dab of CA Gel onto the to front and rear return rollers to make sure they hold the tracks properly allowing me to add some sag between the rollers.

Today I painted and fitted the tools (apart from the Jack which I lost if you recall and the replacement needs assembling again), applied a Raw Umber wash made by my fair hand from W&N oil paint. I then carried out general tidy-up work and painted some Vallejo Dark Rubber onto the road wheels. 

The work done this afternoon looks good and I'm very pleased. You'll notice that I've done some heavy bare metal sponge chipping which will look out-of-place on this early WWII Pz II at the minute but please, bare with me and don't give it too much thought at present because I'm going to show the build as being very dusty which covers up the chips so it works in reverse and they show through only slightly with great results. I'm going to use some Panzer Fading Grey Mig Pigment on the build to provide some variation in the grey tones. I've used this method before where the pigments have covered up the chips and the results were impressive, to say the least!

Next week I have Friday and the following Monday off (i.e. a 4 day weekend) so I'll be completing this on the Friday and starting my Tiger I on Saturday

Photos showing today's work:

Below: The build, the chipping sponge set-up  and the roadwheels:

More tomorrow mainly pigments and airbrushed buff and water (8 parts water to 2 parts Buff) which dries to leave a great dusty effect. Also Friuls will be fitted and lower hull weathing will start.   

Remember there's going to a lot of dust on this thing so try and ignore the chips at present - it will work out fine!

Update tomorrow - she'll be nearly done I hope!

Take care,

Ben

chipping does look good

It's looking really good right now can't wait to see it after weathering.. Have you thought about adding some primer chips too to very the color a bit? I'm guessing that you have something amazing planed to do with her to bring it all together so I'll keep watching

Cheers Rambo,

From the start I'd always been planning a dusty look for this tank. I tried using a tiny piece of sponge for the chipping (a rough piece of sponge use for skin scrubbing so it's very loose, not tightly 'packed together' like a normal sponge.

I'm going to get the rest of the kit on board, add some further streaking effects and then start adding pigments - dry brushed into crevices, wet slop on the wheels to be later scrubbed off and the usual muffler weathering. This will tone it all down and I'll just keep playing around with it until I'm happy. As I previously mentioned airbrushed water and buff mix will be gently bown up against the corners as it dries to great effect.

Update tommorrow!

Ben

Looking GREAT!  Nice work on the chipping... can't wait to see it weathered.  That's the easiest part and of course fun part too.

Ben,

As a suggestion only, you might consider going back over the bare metal chipping effect with some darker color like Burnt Umber or Raw Umber to deepen/vary the effect a bit and not rely solely on the dust effects to come to tone it down. That way it won't look like it's chipped aluminum underneath the dust but actually primered steel peeking through or similar. Just a thought in terms of adding some layering/effect to the finish.

As for your question as to which Ausf this really is...it is in truth a C but that's down to the choices Tamiya made in the style of the visor ports for the hull and turret. Otherwise the c/A/B/C variants are virtually indistinguishable from each other from the exterior. HTH!

Hi Guys,

Well, apart from taking a file to the Friuls and showing some bare metal on the horns and adding some stowage later on, she is complete - and dammit! This is my best model yet - I'm so pleased with how this has come out! The weathering looks perfect and after adding a link to each Friul run - it's turned out so well! This will look great sat between my Pz IA and Pz III N!

I followed Bills advice re the chipping which helped a lot and hit her with a very watery buff (9 parts water to 1 part buff) which dries to leave a great dusty finish. I got October's FSM with Bill's Wespe on the front and copied (ahem) his recommendation to use 4 particular types of pigment that I have and apply onto the wheels and running gear, allow to dry and then scrub off with a stiff brush - I used an old toothbrush.

After that some more streaking, mig engine fluid effects around the filler cap and engine/gearbox housing hatches, more pigments and to finish her off I added some small chain onto the towing hook. The Friuls were treated with AK's Blemishing fluid but they didn't look too good so I added some Russian Earth Pigment to some AK Odourless Thinner and allowed it to soak around the links which blackened them perfectly. Some Dry Mud pigment was then brushed on. A Graphite stick was used on wheel rims and exposed edges after weathering to show fresh wear.

I'm planning to go back to this to add a little bit of stowage and spare track but I'm keen to get going on my Tiger I for the Steel Cats GB!

Btw - the barrels and the antennae are from RB Models.

I also need to sort out some smake candle pulls but have nothing suitably small enough to use! Suggestions.

Well, I hope you like her guys - I know I do a lot. Thanks for all your advice along the way lads!

I hope you like chaps - I'd love to read any comments.

Next up - Dragon Late Tiger I Ausf E for Tigerman's 'Steel Cat's' GB!

Cheers guys and have a great week,

Ben

looks amazing that water and buff mixes does leave a nice dusty effect might have to try it out on one of my old kits to see how it looks.. I loved watching this can't wait to see your next one