finished and win a gold medal :D

Thanks .

I hope you're pleased.

I am close to finalizing.

I'm going for a base, put a rattle .50 better, the kit is too bad.

The canvas on the left side of the box tower is too bad, to thinking of taking.

The more it is.

* CAPN I'll do that before finishing kit

Looks good.

You might want to "un weather" the cleaning rods, they are frequently used by the crew, which is going to wipe the rods clean if dust and mud and the like.  Adding a tiny touch of "wear" using a #2 pencil (very sparingly) will be good, too.

Thanks mate

Yes I agree with Roy's points, but a very nice job.I like the OD

Following the assembly, following an update.

Applying decal: as the decal is horrible and not have silvering decided to make the main, or generic markings.

Wash ready, I tried to wear effect, but I confess I am too bad with it. :(

Some things in place, modified the position of some junk, I tried to make a decent wooden box :(, but still did not get something satisfactory.

I'll add some canvases Value Gear which are excellent, are not painted, but still do the painting tonight.

After this is done, and then send matt varnish dry pigment send 'em up.
I'll try to put some figure and get a decent .50 ammo and those that have in the kit is a lack of respect.
Soon has more.

I thank the friends for joining.

Roy, thanks for the tips, everything you said makes perfect sense.

Taking the tools that are already in the kit painted and glued, the other pieces (boxes, bags and tarpaulins) are not glued.

However, watching some photos have many equipment in front and I believe it will not obstruct, some have even things up in the engine compartment.

Disaster.

I painted olive drab with the vallejo, the effect of burned paint, I used flash color model, also from Vallejo and was applying the diluted paint well.

I already applied the decals and say thing are horrible: D

As the film is too thick, the smaller decals as I have not cut off the excess and thus will get a car with generic markings.

Sorry for the text, my english is poor and wrote with the help of google translator.

Okay, after getting past that, I bet a lot of guys here would like to know how you went about painting it. The paint looks great.

Yeah looks good to me other than Roy's points there. I've had enough judges pointing out stuff like 'magic-stick storage' and blocked viewpoints to me at shows that it's been pretty well hammered into my head!

Looks like you had fun with this one.  Cool!

May i offer some advice about stowage on AFVs though?

1) the official tools -- tend to remain where they are designated according to the load out plan in the tech manual.  Why?  Because any crew member need to be able to find any tool in the complete dark of night.  Your M18 crew isn't going to strap on the M2 .50cal MG's tripod on the side of the turret. The tripod was allocated a spot on "right rear hull roof"

2) gear piled on: have you ever gone off-roading in a buddy's pick up truck?  Stuff flies everywhere.  Unless it was really strapped down, it gets thrown and likely lost.  The function of an M18 is to shoot, move and hide.  Gear falls into the crew compartment, blocks the traverse/elevation of the cannon, blocks the periscopes of the drivers, blocks the entry/opening of hatches, blocks the air intakes on the engine deck -- cans of oil and gasoline on top of the turret bustle?

If you were the driver, could you see anything out of your periscope (that long green box & 2 .50 cal ammo boxes)?  Can you swiftly rotate your turret without snagging stuff on the engine deck?  How do those jerry cans magically stick onto the surfaces they're on? Also, chains are very dangerous and have only very prescribed uses on AFVs.  Modelers overdo chains 99.99% of the time.

Basically get the M18 to eye level and go over everything in a logical manner. I think you'll end up removing lots of what you've piled on.  If they're already affixed, you can use this exercise on your next AFV.  Hope this helps.